660 vs 395 for milling

[4x4American]

what yawl think? basically im wondering if either one is hands down better for milling or if its a stihl/husky preference

 

[Locust Cutter]

what yawl think? basically im wondering if either one is hands down better for milling or if its a stihl/husky preference

Well I'd have to say For-vs-Chevy to a point. The 2 saws are divergent ways of getting to the same destination. On these two Stihl and Husky had an identity crisis and swapped methodologies; the 660 has better top-end stock and is lighter, while the 395 has better torque, better A/V, more weight and MUCH better oiling. I really liked my 660 but contrary to many on here, I found the torque a bit wanting. RPM is nice when you're limbing, but when I'm trying to buck a 4'+/- Burr Oak, or large Hedge, torque pulls the chain. I would imagine a 660 would do just fine as I have seen many photos of individuals using them for exactly that purpose. However, I would prefer to have a bit more grunt. If the 3120 and 880 were out of the price range, personally I would opt for the 395 or the Dolmar 9010/Solo 394.

If I were felling large trees daily and didn't go with either a 385 or a 460/1, I would definitely choose the 660 over the 395 for it's lighter weight. However being a weekend hack, who can basically drive up to the victim(s) of the day, the next big saw will be a 395xp because of it's torque and better A/V setup. If and when I get an Alaskan mill, I believe that it would excel there too. If you have either built by any of the reputable builders on this site, the it's paper/rock/scissors... Hope this helps.

 

[4x4American]

Well I'd have to say For-vs-Chevy to a point. The 2 saws are divergent ways of getting to the same destination. On these two Stihl and Husky had an identity crisis and swapped methodologies; the 660 has better top-end stock and is lighter, while the 395 has better torque, better A/V, more weight and MUCH better oiling. I really liked my 660 but contrary to many on here, I found the torque a bit wanting. RPM is nice when you're limbing, but when I'm trying to buck a 4'+/- Burr Oak, or large Hedge, torque pulls the chain. I would imagine a 660 would do just fine as I have seen many photos of individuals using them for exactly that purpose. However, I would prefer to have a bit more grunt. If the 3120 and 880 were out of the price range, personally I would opt for the 395 or the Dolmar 9010/Solo 394.

If I were felling large trees daily and didn't go with either a 385 or a 460/1, I would definitely choose the 660 over the 395 for it's lighter weight. However being a weekend hack, who can basically drive up to the victim(s) of the day, the next big saw will be a 395xp because of it's torque and better A/V setup. If and when I get an Alaskan mill, I believe that it would excel there too. If you have either built by any of the reputable builders on this site, the it's paper/rock/scissors... Hope this helps.

very helpful, not really much need for any further discussion, you pretty much nailed it, thanks!

 

[Freakingstang]

660's suck on the mill.... they are ony for cutting cookies at GTG's... opcorn:

This one has been modded, but it never lacked any torque... I always thought it was the other way around, the 660 was torquier than the 395. Where as the 395 reved up quicker and held a higher rpm in the cut, until you leaned on it and it slowed way down... anways, either saw willbe fine. This was 30" oak from yesterday.

 

[WidowMaker1]

Id take the 395 over the 660, way better torque and far stronger IMO .....If you can afford too, the 3120 or 880 is a better choice on the Mill.

 

[4x4American]

660's suck on the mill.... they are ony for cutting cookies at GTG's... opcorn:

This one has been modded, but it never lacked any torque... I always thought it was the other way around, the 660 was torquier than the 395. Where as the 395 reved up quicker and held a higher rpm in the cut, until you leaned on it and it slowed way down... anways, either saw willbe fine. This was 30" oak from yesterday.

thank ya, yea i have a tired 066, i think that my 461 pulls the 36" bar better than it does, i dont think it'd be best for milling, i bought it from a logger who beat the crap outta it but i got a good deal on it. what kinda mill setup you got there i like it looks good and simple

 

[4x4American]

Id take the 395 over the 660, way better torque and far stronger IMO .....If you can afford too, the 3120 or 880 is a better choice on the Mill.

if i had enough for a 3120 i'd for sure and twenty years ago get that bad boy...but that thing is so dern expensive! i can get a 395xpw shipped for around a grand, which i dont think is that bad. the thing that i dont like is that i have so many bars for stihl and only a couple small mount bars for husky

 

[gemniii]

As mentioned the Stihl lacks in the oiling department IN THE U.S. !
But you can get an upgraded oiler and it works great. I've got two. Now with a 40" bar cutting stump the chain doesn't get dry.

 

[4x4American]

As mentioned the Stihl lacks in the oiling department IN THE U.S. !
But you can get an upgraded oiler and it works great. I've got two. Now with a 40" bar cutting stump the chain doesn't get dry.

if i got a 660r i believe it comes with a high output oiler that should be enough right?

 

[Locust Cutter]

It ought to be. You will have to watch the oil tank though, as it will go dry before the fuel tank will with that oiler... I've heard of individuals rigging up supplemental oil tanks to keep up with the demand... Either way you'll be ok, but different strengths and weaknesses.

 

[Freakingstang]

thank ya, yea i have a tired 066, i think that my 461 pulls the 36" bar better than it does, i dont think it'd be best for milling, i bought it from a logger who beat the crap outta it but i got a good deal on it. what kinda mill setup you got there i like it looks good and simple

It is a GB MKIII alaskan that I bought new four or five years ago. This weekend was the first i had used it. The oiler turned to the max was barely adequate in my opinion. It would empty the oil tank evenly with the fuel. I've heard the 660R high output oiler will lube more, but I"m positive that it would empty it before the fuel. That was a 36" bar on a 36" mill setup and it only yeilds about 29-30" worth of useable cut. It worked good for the little bit I had to do, but it does take awhile and you will definately use some fuel! If I had to do a ton of milling, i would seriously look at a bandmill setup. This chainsaw is ok for the amount I use it. Chains are expensive, the mill is right around 300 bucks. plus a long bar... its an expensive initial investment, but if you use it enough it will pay for itself in not too long of a timeframe.

 

[gemniii]

I believe the only difference between the 660 and the 660R is the wrap handle. The Aussies and perhaps others get the high output oiler automatically.

 

[BobL]

It ought to be. You will have to watch the oil tank though, as it will go dry before the fuel tank will with that oiler... I've heard of individuals rigging up supplemental oil tanks to keep up with the demand... Either way you'll be ok, but different strengths and weaknesses.

I haven't milled much with the 660 (with Aussie oiler) but I don't recall the oil tank going dry before the gas tank - maybe I had the oiler turned down a tad.

My experience with upping the oil to the chain at the usually point and then sending the chain screaming around two sprockets before the chain even gets to the cutting side just ends up spraying any excess oil off the chain, hence using an aux oiler that adds the oil to the chain just before the chain dives into the wood is a far better alternative to upping the oil flow at the usual place.

One school of thought is that the extra oil coming off the chain assists with cooling and less wear and tear even when using an aux oiler. However, FWIW my experience is that using a the same aux oiler with my 076 (with the paltry oil delivery rate of 19 mL/min) seems to generate about the same B&C wear as the 880 with its 38 mL/min.

 

[4x4American]

It is a GB MKIII alaskan that I bought new four or five years ago. This weekend was the first i had used it. The oiler turned to the max was barely adequate in my opinion. It would empty the oil tank evenly with the fuel. I've heard the 660R high output oiler will lube more, but I"m positive that it would empty it before the fuel. That was a 36" bar on a 36" mill setup and it only yeilds about 29-30" worth of useable cut. It worked good for the little bit I had to do, but it does take awhile and you will definately use some fuel! If I had to do a ton of milling, i would seriously look at a bandmill setup. This chainsaw is ok for the amount I use it. Chains are expensive, the mill is right around 300 bucks. plus a long bar... its an expensive initial investment, but if you use it enough it will pay for itself in not too long of a timeframe.

I have a few projects I'd like to do and will need a bit of wood for, I can get it from my boss at the sawmill for a good price, but it still gets expensive. I think that an alaskan mill will be perfect for these few projects I have and will absolutely pay itself off. Further on down the line, I'd like to have my own business, logging woodlots and then milling the wood and selling it. I've been doing some research on a Wood-Mizer lt40 hydraulic. It will take some time, but I dream about quitting my job and having my own business working for myself. I know I can do it, I have the work ethic necessary. I work two jobs right now and beat the crap outta myself saving up for a wood-mizer.

 

[4x4American]

I believe the only difference between the 660 and the 660R is the wrap handle. The Aussies and perhaps others get the high output oiler automatically.

well, when I looked into the 441 R-CM and the 461R, I found that the R means it comes with dual felling dogs, larger clutch cover with a oversized mud flap type deal, 3/4 wrap handle, and a high output bar oiler. I was kinda figuring that was the difference between all of the R vs non R models.

 

[glennschumann]

Air filters

I run an 066, and it cuts fine. The only advantage to a Husky (if you have both dealers near by) is that if memory serves, the Husky has the air injection which keeps the filter clean(er). I clean the 066 filter after every pass on big logs... I think the Husky can go quite a while before cleaning. Just my thoughts.

Schumann

 

[4x4American]

I run an 066, and it cuts fine. The only advantage to a Husky (if you have both dealers near by) is that if memory serves, the Husky has the air injection which keeps the filter clean(er). I clean the 066 filter after every pass on big logs... I think the Husky can go quite a while before cleaning. Just my thoughts.

Schumann

thanks for the input, good food for thought. do you just give it a quick knock out or do you blow it out with compressed air and wash it and stuff in between each pass cause if so i'm going with a husky

 

[stikine]

FWIW, the air filtration on the 395 is great for milling applications.

 

[4x4American]

someone in the chainsaw thread told me that i'll burn up a new saw if i use it for a mill and that it's not worth it to go and spend a grand on a saw for a mill...they're made to run aint they

 

[Justsaws]

someone in the chainsaw thread told me that i'll burn up a new saw if i use it for a mill and that it's not worth it to go and spend a grand on a saw for a mill...they're made to run aint they

I use 660s, I do not use the rain cover on the air filter so I do not have to clean the air filter off typically until after at least a 1/2 gallon of gas through the saw, usually just wait until time to swap chains as the saw will be shut down for that. Pull the pre-filter and tap both pieces and good to go. It is hard to say how often to clean the air filter as different types of wood give different results. Dry versus wet wood gives different results as well being how much dust fines will float in the air. The last round of Maple I milled up I did not have to clean the air filter after a full gallon of fuel, or sharpen the chain. Easy milling, fun and done. Next batch is dry Black Locust, not the same.

I do not turn the saw off to top off the fuel and oil tanks, it is not uncommon to consume 2-5 gallons of gas during a good milling session. 5 gallons of gas through the mill saw in a day is a loooooooong day and not typically very enjoyable unless it is Spruce or Pine, that is just fun milling.

I am aware of zero brands that cover damage to the saw during milling under warrenty. Personally I would look for a good used saw or 2, in case one "burns" up from being used or more likely drops a fuel line or plugs up an oiler pick up. Plus it is a good idea to have a saw to use to flush up the logs, etc that is not attached to the mill.

I use 660s because they are more common/easier to find used and typically cheaper than the 395s in my area. I also prefer the clutch setup, chain adjuster and bar cover setup for milling but I could get over that. The 395 is the better unit in terms of power, it will mill faster, 12" wide to 30" wide, that is the range of mills that I use and I have used both power heads. If could get 395s for the same price a 660s I would use 395s.

I am on my second 660, the first one was a hard used loggers saw and the crank case was cracked, that crack finally spread enough to cause an air leak. Finished milling that day with the back up 660. Pulled the P/C off, replaced the crankcase and good to go, all used parts. Milled with the cracked crankcase saw as the primary power head for at least 3 years before the crack finally creeped to much.

To answer your original question, the 395 is the better saw for milling, BUT not enough for me to pay any extra. Beyond that it comes down to clutch, cover and chain adjuster, I prefer the 660 setup to that of the 395 however I would not pay extra for it.