7-19

[ents]

I picked up a Homelite 7-19 buried in a clean out I was doing. Now I've got the bug to recondition it. Any chance anyone has an IPL, shop manual, starter side cover and cylinder cover??? At least that's what I need for now. Once I get my bench cleared (49sp and BR400 still sitting there) I'll tear into this and see what else I need.


Thanks,

 

[ray benson]

Near the bottom of the page is an IPL to download.
http://www.acresinternet.com/cscc.n...b60b956d6764f19388256b78000e0ed4?OpenDocument

 

[ents]

Thanks,

I was on that page and never saw that.

later,

 

[ents]

Started the tear down on this saw. Reed valve, I've never seen one so I can't tell if this one good or bad. At rest they are partially open. Is that normal? Is there a way to test these

Clutch, I looked at this for a long time yesterday trying to figure out how to get it off. Nothing to gRab hold of. Any one know?

Carb is a tillotson, HL 27B. Went to the Tillotson site but couldn't find a cross reference for this carb and a rebuilt kit. Anyone have any knowledge here?

Other than the piston advertised on e-bay, any other source for pistons? This one is badly scored.

Any help or ideas are greatly appreciated.


Later,

 

[Edge & Engine]

Piston
http://www.edgeandengine.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=57_62&products_id=1759

The kits for that carb were RK-357 (rebuild) or GS-122 (gasket/diaphragm). However, I cannot find any info on those kits...must have been long discontinued. This aftermarket gasket/diaphragm kit is supposed to fit all HL carbs:
http://www.edgeandengine.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=200_203&products_id=195

That clutch looks like it's keyed, those 2 holes on each side of the crank are probably threaded for puller bolts.

 

[thomas72]

The piston does not look to bad. I would clean it up with a file and put rings in it if they are needed. Your can still get a carb kit for that saw as well. To make the saw run better I would take the reed block out and flip the bent reeds to make them seal better and go ahead and replace as many gaskets as you can.. This will make starting the old saw easier.

 

[lectrocrew]

Clutch, I looked at this for a long time yesterday trying to figure out how to get it off. Nothing to gRab hold of. Any one know?

That clutch looks like it's keyed, those 2 holes on each side of the crank are probably threaded for puller bolts.

You may be right although just in case it's a taper lock bushing be sure to check first to see if there are hex key set screws in the holes. Also if it's a taper lock bushing, there will be a split in the inner bushing at about 12 o'clock position based on the crankshaft position as shown in the photo, which cannot be seen in the photo at that angle. In other words the split will be at 90 degrees to the holes and on the opposite side from the keyway but not necessarily exactly 180 degrees opposite the keyway.
If it is a taper lock the set screws will need to come out first,then that flange with the six dogs will need to be tapped evenly inward toward the saw. Once the flange is loose on the bushing you'll need to insert a thin wedge shaped tool into the split in order to open it slightly. This will make it possible to slide the bushing outward off of the crankshaft followed by the clutch assembly. Note, the crankshaft will need to be very clean and probably dressed with emery cloth before attempting to pull the bushing off.
Again, I may be wrong. I'm certainly not familiar with this old saw, but if there are in fact set screws in those holes, then I feel certain this proceedure will work for you.
Also, be sure to note exactly where that bushing is mounted on the shaft before removing it since it will need to be re-installed in the same location.
Have fun!!!

 

[ents]

...That clutch looks like it's keyed, those 2 holes on each side of the crank are probably threaded for puller bolts.

I believe you're right. I looked at the IPL and it shows a clutch puller tool. I need to dig in there and see what size bolts I need.

Check your PMs

Thanks

 

[ents]

The piston does not look to bad. I would clean it up with a file and put rings in it if they are needed.

That scoring you see is a pretty deep gouge. It's counter part can be seen on the jug (well, picture isn't too clear but you can see where it lands). You're looking at the exhaust ports.

...To make the saw run better I would take the reed block out and flip the bent reeds to make them seal better and go ahead and replace as many gaskets as you can.. This will make starting the old saw easier.

Then I assume that those reeds should be closed while at rest?????

 

[Taylornic]

I know nothing at all about that saw. But, yes, reeds should be closed. Slightly off the seat is normal for older, used reeds, but they should be closed for best results.

 

[andrethegiant70]

Great thread, lots of great info here!

 

[thomas72]

Is this a saw you plan on using or just putting the saw on display. Those old saws with heavy cranks and large bores will run with low compression. That piston even though it has a gouge the will not really affect the way it will run. As long as the piston fits tight enough in the bore to keep from slapping around the rings will do all the work with the compression. The cylinder on the other hand does look as though it had seen better days. One of the bad thing about the old chrome plated cylinders is that they like to flake chrome when the get gouged deep enough. I have a new homelite cylinder for that style saw and will check to see if you can use it. If it fits I will give you the cylinder and you can just pay shipping. Yes, like stated before the reeds are suppose to be flat against the reed block.

 

[ZeroJunk]

Ents, I ran one of those for a few years selling firewood to pay for college. I have a manual but I saw you could download one. I actually threw the thing in the dumpster about 7 years ago, before forums etc., thinking that it would never have any use. Had a lot of good parts. There was a gentleman named Mike Drumsta that bought the remaining parts from Homelite. But, that was at least 20 years ago and he sounded elderly then. Don't know where they might be now. Anyhow, I used the saw a long time after mix had to be sprayed in the exhaust to get it running. Hell, it was worn out when I got it. I still managed to saw a lot of wood with it.

 

[ents]

Is this a saw you plan on using or just putting the saw on display. ...

I've asked myself the same thing a couple of times. I knew parts would be hard to find and expensive. And carrying around an antique, a darn heavy one at that, in the woods didn't make any sense. I guess what did me in was the fact I had opened it up and the German in me said "...gotta put in back together better than it came apart...". So it'll be a runner but only for bucking those large rounds of fire wood (and when my arms get tired, I'll go get the 044).

...As long as the piston fits tight enough in the bore to keep from slapping around the rings will do all the work with the compression. ...

That's good to know. I figured it might just be able to lug along (like my 30 yr. old log haul truck).

... I have a new homelite cylinder for that style saw and will check to see if you can use it. If it fits I will give you the cylinder and you can just pay shipping. ...

Your offer is greatly appreciated. May happiness, wealth, and health be with you and yours (even if the jug isn't compatable).

 

[ents]

Ents, I ran one of those for a few years selling firewood to pay for college. .....

If you ran that saw for a living than you've gotta have Paul Bunyan arms. You could probably hold your own arm restling with Andrethegiant.

 

[ZeroJunk]

If you ran that saw for a living than you've gotta have Paul Bunyan arms. You could probably hold your own arm restling with Andrethegiant

LOL, I was only around 20 years old. I couldn't stand much of a dose of it now.

 

[hoss]

Clutch, I looked at this for a long time yesterday trying to figure out how to get it off. Nothing to gRab hold of. Any one know?

Find two deep nuts threaded to match your crank. Put both on the crank so that one is half off the crank and they are seated against each other. This way you will protect your threads from impact and stripping. If you can, hold the saw up so that the crank is pointed straight down and give the nut that is half off the crankshaft a good whack with a hammer. The clutch and drift key should drop off after a whack or three. If you can't hold the saw up with the clutch side crank pointed down then tilt it on it's side so that the crank is at least angled down. It will take a few mor licks this way but is an easier setup. Good luck.

On a side note, a rim drive bell housing from a c series or xp series homelite should be a direct bolt on for this saw (there may be an extra bushing on your crank or in the c series bellhousing that just slides right out) and that would give you a lot more options on what chain/bar you want to run on this saw.

 

[ents]

Thanks Hoss, I'll give it a whack and see what happens.

later,

 

[thomas72]

I looked at my parts book and my cylinder was different. I will look around and see if I can scrounge up some old part dealers for homelite. On the clutch, I looked at a similar saw and they had a tool that screwed into the clutch in the two threaded holes, then it straddled the crankshaft with another bolt with a taper that fit the hole in the crank. I hope this helps.

 

[bullseye13]

Is it possible to remove the spring, remove the clutch shoes and get a 3 jaw puller on the carrier? Just a thought.