Adding a log lift, any ideas?

[avalancher]

I am plotting on adding a log lift to my splitter, and wondered if you guys can give me some info before I start ordering my parts.

My splitter is set up simple like most, a high pressure hose coming from the pump to the directional valve, two hoses going to either end of the ram, and a return line from the directional valve back to the tank after passing through the filter.
My question is, can I just add a T to the line that goes from the pump to the directional valve and add a second valve for the log lift ram? Then run the return line from the log lift valve back to a T on the main return line?
If this option doesnt work, how about replacing the valve with a valve that has two levers?
Which is best?(Or maybe the only right way?)

 

[Butch(OH)]

It will not work if you simply tee another valve as you suggest. The fluid will take the path of least resistance, when you pull a valve that cylinder might move some but as soon as it needs pressure to lift or split the fluid will go to the other valve and back to the tank.
The correct and simple method is to plumb the valves in series. The "out" of your existing valve is plumbed into the "IN" port of the new valve. The "OUT" port of the new valve is plumbed to the existing hoses and filter and back to the tank.
Another correct but slightly more costly way to plumb is via a "power beyond" circuit IF your current valve has power beyond capabilities.
A third correct and simple but even more costly way to plumb it would be with a tandem spool valve as you suggested.

Your second valve, or tandem valve if you go that route must be open center. All "woodsplitter" valves are open center that I am aware of. You do not want detents on the log lift valve, they can be removed if that is all you can find. If there is room the easy way to mount valve number two is to use a pipe nipple between the valves. If you want or need to have the log lift valve remote from the splitter valve you need to use a hydraulic hose rated for the working pressures and flows of your system. 3/4" hose is big enough for most.

 

[sctstoys72]

i made a boom that swings 360 w/tongs,it will reach out and get them,no rolling ,wrestling 200# blocks to the splitter.

 

[Crofter]

You should also be able to use a diverter valve that will selectively send output from your present valve to the splitter cylinder or the lift cylinder. Northern Hydraulic or Princess Auto should have them listed so you could calculate which is your cheapest option and easiest to mount and plumb.

 

[skid row]

I am plotting on adding a log lift to my splitter, and wondered if you guys can give me some info before I start ordering my parts.

My splitter is set up simple like most, a high pressure hose coming from the pump to the directional valve, two hoses going to either end of the ram, and a return line from the directional valve back to the tank after passing through the filter.
My question is, can I just add a T to the line that goes from the pump to the directional valve and add a second valve for the log lift ram? Then run the return line from the log lift valve back to a T on the main return line?
If this option doesnt work, how about replacing the valve with a valve that has two levers?
Which is best?(Or maybe the only right way?)

If buying a new valve is not an $$ issue, check out the log splitter/ log lift combo valve surplus center has. If I was to do another splitter build, that's the way I would go.