cemiii
ArboristSite Member
Are there any guidelines or tips for setting adjustable oilers (on saws that have them) or is this just something you have to kind of learn from experience? My current understanding is to err on the "over" side.
Adjustable Oilers
- Thread starter cemiii
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LoveStihlQuality
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Most oilers are stingy to begin with. Even wide open they usually don't oil enough.
Tank of oil on a tank of fuel - that is how I set up my saws!
The oil tank is always smaller than the fuel tank anyways so I don't see any fault with going 1:1.
Depending on the saws oil pump and the B&C setup You use, You might feel the need to turn the oiler up - but I have yet to encounter such situation.
For example, on my PS-6400 I have the pump turned down just a little bit so she doesn't run dry before she spends the fuel.
On the other hand my PS-7900 has the pump turned all the way up and she still got a couple spoonful of oil left once she runs out of fuel.
Both saws feature stock limited pumps.
Generally there is no "too much oil", but finding a working balance between too little and more than needed is desirable.
The oil tank is always smaller than the fuel tank anyways so I don't see any fault with going 1:1.
Depending on the saws oil pump and the B&C setup You use, You might feel the need to turn the oiler up - but I have yet to encounter such situation.
For example, on my PS-6400 I have the pump turned down just a little bit so she doesn't run dry before she spends the fuel.
On the other hand my PS-7900 has the pump turned all the way up and she still got a couple spoonful of oil left once she runs out of fuel.
Both saws feature stock limited pumps.
Generally there is no "too much oil", but finding a working balance between too little and more than needed is desirable.
Tenderfoot
ArboristSite Guru
I run my husky 576 oiler 1/2 turn in from wide open with a 24 or 28 in bar and see no issues with it and my Dolmar 6100 1 turn from wide open. Have about 25 tanks on the Dolmar that way with no visible bar wear, outside the heel which took 3 strokes of a bar dresser to clean up. Husky word out 4 chains on the bar on it and the bar is still going strong, probably wear out another 4 before it gives up the ghost.
If it gives you wear on the bar you find acceptable, that is the right amount of oil. I always tension my chains so that I can just barely pull the drive link out of the bar on all bar lengths. Seems to be the right amount of tension for me with a 3/8ths chain. Keeping the chain sharp makes a huge difference too. A Fferd bar rail dresser is well worth the $20 too.
If it gives you wear on the bar you find acceptable, that is the right amount of oil. I always tension my chains so that I can just barely pull the drive link out of the bar on all bar lengths. Seems to be the right amount of tension for me with a 3/8ths chain. Keeping the chain sharp makes a huge difference too. A Fferd bar rail dresser is well worth the $20 too.
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Chainsaw manufacturer's would like you to think their oilers are adjustable. They will put little opposing arrows around the screw to give you the impression that you can regulate oil flow.
When in reality, they're just pulling our collective legs. Turn that screw all the way clockwise and forget about it.
Oh yeah.....and they'd like you to think the saws are easy to start.
When in reality, they're just pulling our collective legs. Turn that screw all the way clockwise and forget about it.
Oh yeah.....and they'd like you to think the saws are easy to start.
I open it enough that when I hold the bar nose an inch or so from the cut end of a tree I'm bucking, I will get just a slight amount of splatter flinging off the chain onto the wood. Plus I'm overly protective of my b&c's so I do this every couple of cuts or so if I'm in larger wood.
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On my Pioneer p40, turning out is more. It uses a rotating plunger, the pumping end has the shaft cut in half, the other end a cam. As it rotates it opens and closes the oil ports, and it moves in and out at the correct time to provide the pumping action. The cam end bears against a set screw that has a ball on it. Turn the screw in and the ball moves to the part of the cam that provides a smaller stroke, giving less pump action.
Generally I go with more oil the bigger the bar. Just as long as you can see oil in the groove after a long cut. Your oil should last as long as your fuel, I once had a pressurized tank system spew all the oil out in 10 minutes! What a mess! no restriction in the feed line was the problem.
Generally I go with more oil the bigger the bar. Just as long as you can see oil in the groove after a long cut. Your oil should last as long as your fuel, I once had a pressurized tank system spew all the oil out in 10 minutes! What a mess! no restriction in the feed line was the problem.
earlthegoat2
ArboristSite Guru
Ideally, all my saws would have the R model high output oiler and be cranked up to max. In the real world, I have found there seems to be a great variety in oil pump output. I had two MS460Rs in here the other day and one oiled excellently on the 25" bar when it was turned down all the way and the other one was barely acceptable cranked up with same length bar. Going through the oiling system on that saw netted no better results.
My MS660 oils a 28" bar so enthusiastically on the low setting that I am sure it must be a high output oiler. Not going to check it though.
The rule of thumb I heard way back was you wanted to go through 1/2 tank of oil per tank of fuel. These days when I am more hip to the tuning game and doing things like muffler mods and porting can make these saws really suck the gas down fast. I say, if a saw is working that hard it needs some extra oil in the chain too.
In the end I usually just crank them all the way up and forget about it.
My MS660 oils a 28" bar so enthusiastically on the low setting that I am sure it must be a high output oiler. Not going to check it though.
The rule of thumb I heard way back was you wanted to go through 1/2 tank of oil per tank of fuel. These days when I am more hip to the tuning game and doing things like muffler mods and porting can make these saws really suck the gas down fast. I say, if a saw is working that hard it needs some extra oil in the chain too.
In the end I usually just crank them all the way up and forget about it.
Little Al
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Modern saws from the Big 2 seem to be " Stingy" on oil compared to older saws, they seem to struggle to oil a bar much longer than 18/20 " after paying a goodly amount for a " so called quality saw" you then have to pay out more for an uprated oil pump I'm some what "Old School " & like to see a misty oil spray coming off the bar tip.
Runs out of gas before the oil.
alderman
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I run them all, little or large, wide open. I also used to make it a habit of refueling more often so I didn't have issues with running out of oil.
A bit of sawing wears this old man out so I don't have much concern of running out of oil any ways.
Just get old and the problem goes away.
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A bit of sawing wears this old man out so I don't have much concern of running out of oil any ways.
Just get old and the problem goes away.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
