Aftermarket 394 P+C

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biggenius29

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I have a 394 that needs a new piston and cylinder, but cant find aftermarket. Will a 395 cylinder bolt right on or do I need to change anything on the intake or exhaust?
 
Could not find on either. The cost of making the conversion was enough that I bit the bullet and ordered an oe P&C. Well worth the coin I believe. Just hurts a bit at first. Good luck
 
That broken exhaust port looks extremely familar. Must be a common problem? Somebody gave me a 394 last year with that exact same break in it. The piece that had broken off was wedged between the muffler and crankcase. I was able to fit it back on to the cylinder with some J.B. weld and made a new support for the muffler bolt to hold on to. This was my first rebuild and probably wouldn't use the J.B. weld for this type of fix now. So far it has worked great though. During the rebuild process I had bought an insurance piston and cylinder-crankcase combo just in case.
 
To convert from the 394, is it the manifold, clamp and collar the only things that need changing to convert to a 395?

Carb is different too AL. As well as the 395 used an external impulse line, and the 394 uses pulse through the carb mount block. And I can't remember if the 395 uses a little brass nipple through the crankcase, as I don't think it comes off the cylinder, so that would probably be a bit of a stumbling block.
 
Carb is different too AL. As well as the 395 used an external impulse line, and the 394 uses pulse through the carb mount block. And I can't remember if the 395 uses a little brass nipple through the crankcase, as I don't think it comes off the cylinder, so that would probably be a bit of a stumbling block.

Yeah right, thanks Will.
It is rather involved.
Do the carbs share the same mounting pattern?
I wonder how hard it would be to block the passage in the 394 carb, reroute and fit an external barb?

There is a brass nipple on the 395 cyl.
 
Yeah right, thanks Will.
It is rather involved.
Do the carbs share the same mounting pattern?
I wonder how hard it would be to block the passage in the 394 carb, reroute and fit an external barb?

There is a brass nipple on the 395 cyl.

I think the carbs are too different, but that said, I'm not totally sure, its been a little while since I had my 394 carb in my hand. I think the biggest problem would be the impulse line, it could be done? But is it worth it?
 
It's pretty easy to change a modern carb from internal pulse to external pulse. All you have to do is block off the internal pulse opening with some flange dressing or gasket sealer, and add the fuel pump cover that has the external pulse nipple.

Like Al said, the pulse nipple for the 395 is in the base of the cylinder, not the crankcase. I've already hashed out what it would take to make the conversion. It's ultimately just shy of around $65 in new parts from a dealer plus the 395 top end to make the swap and make it work.
 
It's pretty easy to change a modern carb from internal pulse to external pulse. All you have to do is block off the internal pulse opening with some flange dressing or gasket sealer, and add the fuel pump cover that has the external pulse nipple.

Like Al said, the pulse nipple for the 395 is in the base of the cylinder, not the crankcase. I've already hashed out what it would take to make the conversion. It's ultimately just shy of around $65 in new parts from a dealer plus the 395 top end to make the swap and make it work.

Cool, thanks for clearing that up. I just couldn't remember about where the Impulse was, having a brain fart.
 
I think the carbs are too different, but that said, I'm not totally sure, its been a little while since I had my 394 carb in my hand. I think the biggest problem would be the impulse line, it could be done? But is it worth it?

It's pretty easy to change a modern carb from internal pulse to external pulse. All you have to do is block off the internal pulse opening with some flange dressing or gasket sealer, and add the fuel pump cover that has the external pulse nipple.

Like Al said, the pulse nipple for the 395 is in the base of the cylinder, not the crankcase. I've already hashed out what it would take to make the conversion. It's ultimately just shy of around $65 in new parts from a dealer plus the 395 top end to make the swap and make it work.

Thanks guy's.

Doesn't sound like too much of an outlay.

So is it just the manifold, clamp and collar Jacob?
 
Manifold, clamp, collar, insulator, throttle cable, intake studs (or tap out the intake stud threads on the 395 cylinder to 5mm,) and the sleeves that go over the intake studs.

Thanks Jacob. This saw is for a buddy of mine, it runs yet but he says it is real low on power. I told him to throw a new piston and rings in but he has his heart set on a BB.

Looks like I might just put in a new piston and rings for him. He wants to trade me his 394 and some coin for my 395, daily he bugs me for it.
 
Thanks Jacob. This saw is for a buddy of mine, it runs yet but he says it is real low on power. I told him to throw a new piston and rings in but he has his heart set on a BB.

Looks like I might just put in a new piston and rings for him. He wants to trade me his 394 and some coin for my 395, daily he bugs me for it.


so he has his heart on spending extra money, when he does not have too....he is a car salesman wet dream.
 
New P&C`s for the 394 are not really that expensive compared to other saws I have worked on, my source was charging $350. delivered. What are other dealers charging for them?
Pioneerguy600
 
Thats what Baileys quoted me, but for around $90 I can get a BB for a 395, so slight savings. But if the cost to put a BB on will take around $100 worth of parts, then plus the BB, if he does need a new cylinder that $350 isnt looking so bad. Plus you cant beat OEM.




Thats what I think it needs. But he read about a BB kits and really wants one. I told him it probably only needs a new piston, then MM it and it will be a new saw.

But he wants a BB.

The 394 and the 395 are the same diameter....so there is no BB...
 
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