Air compressor

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Actually I just got online and looked it up by the pic you posted. The black hose going into the bottom of the pressure switch is a quick disconnect. To test the unloader valve, just disconnect the hose after the pump has cycled off. Then run some air out of the tank to see if the compressor re-starts back up. If it does, you know the unloader is the problem. If air continues to leak out of that hose (pump not running) you know the check valve is bad. If neither of those work, either your extension cord is the problem, or your motor has a fault. That is easy to test as well. Just put the old cord back onto it and see if it works. You may have to drag it to a location that has a 3-prong outlet, or just cut the 3rd prong off and use it. These things are used in a garage anyways, so its not like it should get wet and electrocute you from not being grounded. Heck mine has been missing that 3rd prong for over 6yrs as I cut it off a long time ago..:innocent:
 
How long and what gauge extension cord are you using? I would be using a 10 gauge cord and 100 ft at the max to minimize voltage drop.
 
Just a question, but have you already tried it on a separate circuit and a shorter extension cord? Or did we move past that possibility and I just missed it.
Is it oiled or oiless?
 
Your motor is rated at 14.5 full load amps. In-rush current on motor starts can be significantly higher. The amp draw is compounded because of the extension cord. Glad you found the solution. Remember KISS. Keep It Simple Stupid.
 
You might still be able to get away with a shorter and heavier gauge extension cord. That should mitigate the drop and give you more flexibility
 
I did not read all of this thread:

But to answer your question about what usually causes the motor to lock up and flame out on a electric air compressor is the piston head on the compressor does not unload the pressure off the piston so as the motor can get a running start at a unloaded piston.
You should hear a pist (air spew) immediately when the compressor shuts off when the cutoff pressure switch operates.
If you can bleed off the air pressure from 100 psi to around 25 and it starts ok this tells you it's most likely not unloading.
If you hear air constantly leaking when it shuts off it's the air supply main check valve leaking back to the compressor.
Some cheapo unit use what is called a genie valve, it's a combo check and unloader and it's common for those to fail.

If you do not hear this one time air spew WHEN THE COMPRESSPR RUNS IT'S COMPLETE CYCLE) your UNLOADER is not operating which is usually built into the pressure switch on the small air compressors. You can research such on-line.

Now keep in mind if the compressor is running and gets' up to a pressure of say 80 lbs and it normally cuts off at a higher pressure and you unplug it or it losing incoming voltage the compressor won't unload from the pressure switch unload because it did not complete it's cycle. A genie valve will unload because it sense no air flow and the larger industrial compressors sense when to unload by using a centrifugal unloader built into the compressor PUMP. (anytime the PUMP is not rotating it's in the unload state) This mechanically protects the driver motor from a lock-up seizure.

Summary: Most likely your unloader. Research such online and watch you tube video and read your owners manual.
 
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