Alder howto

[silk]

So the title says it all.

In the last 6 months I have had to deal with a large number of Alder that are 60 - 70 ft tall with an angle that makes it very hard to climb let alone take down in a way I am used to with Conifers.

Say you have an Alder growing at a 45 Degree or so angle and have no real way to rig the top. What do ya do?

So far the only way I have found is to climb as high as safe and dig the spurs in deep and do a quick cut while I balance for the few seconds I have on the opposite side of the lean then as the top drops grab on tight and hang on for dear life...

It sucks and I don't like it...

Any help or suggestions?

 

[John Paul Sanborn]

Do you limb your way up to the top, or cut a notch in the canopy to drop the top into?

Leaving a dampening mass on leaning pecker-poles can make the ride more bearable, no matter the species.

 

[silk]

Most of the Alders were bare of anything until the very top where I had to blow
them.

I climbed up nearly to the very top of each one where on average the Diameter was not much larger than a baseball bat. It was the only way I could make a safe quick cut.

 

[John Paul Sanborn]

Then the best is to do a slow hinge tear, or cut and chuck.

If you can manage the hinge so that you can putt the top towards you, or in a direction that is not the into the lean you are often better off.

it is the dynamics of cut and fly that push the pole back and give you the ride.

Of course, tieing into another tree is best whenever possible. Tighten the rig up so that you lift your trunk up a little and you will get less release reaction.

I'm assuming it was not possible in these jobs?

 

[southsoundtree]

you might use a polesaw to reduce the weight of the top. This will help to make it more handle-able. I'll use the pole saw to top-cut the limbs and swing them to me, allowing me to catch, then throw away from any targets below. If the top weighs less, then you don't need to climb so high up onto thin trunk wood.

I'd suggest a double wrap with the flipline for more stability.

I'd cut on the compression side/ under side about 6-8" below your holding wood, so that if it peels down, it doesn't split under your tie-in.

A sloping back-cut without a face will allow it to swing down. Once hanging, cut it free. A handsaw can be good for this.

I've used a guy line opposite the lean on thin alders to reassure me when I've had to catch the top by hand or rope.

 

[BC WetCoast]

I understand your problems on those little alders.

To put it into perspective for others. The alder is growing in small closed canopy stands, so the canopy exists only on the top 20-25% of the tree. They also have strong phototropic tendencies along the edges of the stand and will have a heavy lean toward the light.

I'm not a climber so I can only give you advice based on observation.

If you have to rig any of the tops down, make sure the groundies know how to let it run properly, or you will be going for a ride.

Leaning alder barberchairs very easily so be mindful of that when you make your cuts. Wrap the stem if necessary.

Most climbers I've watched will do as you do, except they usually let the top come down slowly. Dampens some of the energy. Double wrap the lanyard and hang on.

 

[John Paul Sanborn]

Double wrap the lanyard and hang on.

A wrapped friction saver for the climbing line works better in these settings, since you have a self rescue option if kicked off your spurs.

 

[southsoundtree]

A wrapped friction saver for the climbing line works better in these settings, since you have a self rescue option if kicked off your spurs.

once you get that high up, the diameter will be too small for a friction saver, to my way of thinking, however a running bowline with prussic can keep you choked to a small stem.

 

[silk]

The pole saw idea is something I had not thought of, I will be trying that this week for sure on a smaller tree to get the idea of that.

I do also use a nice soft length of rope I use as a 2nd tie in and give that thing 4 or 5 tight raps around the trunk "the trunk on these things are full of slimy green moss"

And having these damn things barber is a major concern do to the angle they are at and is why I climb so high and try to cut as quick as I can.

Thanks for all the advise. I will keep it all in mind.

I am just glad I did not get a "what you crazy, thats not how you do it!" reply

 

[bighugetrees]

small alders

Southsound, I have done that with a pole saw before and it worked good for me. Good advice.
Also, my dad would say that alders have killed the most people and not sure if that is true or not. Maybe it is a lack of respect for them or that they just look like little trees and will be easy or something. He would also cut a little off each side of the hinge before back cut. Better to be a little slow and alive.

 

[John Paul Sanborn]

Originally Posted by John Paul Sanborn View Post
A wrapped friction saver for the climbing line works better in these settings, since you have a self rescue option if kicked off your spurs.

once you get that high up, the diameter will be too small for a friction saver, to my way of thinking, however a running bowline with prussic can keep you choked to a small stem.

That is why you wrap it around the stem before tieing into it. Hanging upside-down on a wraped lanyard is a bee-ithc to get out of.

 

[southsoundtree]

That is why you wrap it around the stem before tieing into it. Hanging upside-down on a wraped lanyard is a bee-ithc to get out of.

JPS-

I'm trying to see what you mean about the wrapped friction saver.

I'm thinking you're talking about a ring and ring friction saver like the Buckingham made one.

If you wrap around the trunk to take up length (which is what I think you are saying), how are you advancing up the trunk?
What I usually do for removal where I am mostly stripping limbs on the way up it to use a flipline and a running bowline to a GriGri for a backup and emergency exit. I suggested to use a prussic, as most people have a cord that they can fashion into a prussic, whereas less people have a GriGri.

On the prussic note, do you know of a friction hitch for single line descent, such as with a running bowline back-up line, and say, a hornet's nest?

 

[John Paul Sanborn]

I think a friction hitch as a safety on a single line is a bad idea. What will happen to the hitch when you fall on it?

Wrapped ring on ring, or a home made prusick FS choked down tight is much better for self rescue if thrown out of your gaffs.

There is the theoretical advantage over a wrapped flipline in a barberschair event. I've not heard of it saving anyone's live.

As for the up climb, you don't need to set it till you are ready to drop the top. I do know one guy who will set it and then try to hang on it as the top comes off because the ride is easier. I'm not convinced.

Personally I will do anything I can to tie into an adjacent tree, even if I have to climb to set then descend access the work tree. If it adds 20 min to the set up, but allows me to work the tree down faster and easier, I'm happy.