I recently bought what I thought was a reputable brand from a good source, a 272 P/C kit for my 83 white top rancher. But, I'm wondering if I have a snowcones chance in heck of the intake sealing right. With only .030-.032 of meat between the impulse port counter bore and the runner. Also questioning my feelings on this cylinder having the manufacturers name ground off it. The plating is decent looking and the bore measured good...
AM Husqvarna 272 cylinder question.
- Thread starter ShadSwaz
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I don't remember or having a countrbore like that on a meteor I used a while back or the need for it and looks like someone chamfered the edge a bit in that area making it worse- grinding the name off strikes me as strange also mounting screws were 4mm instead of 5mm - in otherwords were did it come from and what is the make of it supposed to be
It's a Hyway Nikasil, all the ones I've seen have been counter bored. Not like this one though. I also notice the spot facing for the cylinder bolts are not cleaned up on one side... Maybe just a bad casting. Here's a picture of the counter bore on the web. Much different, but what's a 1/4" LoL
I'm gonna hold off on the supplier and see how they handle the return process. Pretty pissed because I had it expedited. And now I'm further behind. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ stuff like this happens. Just want to get this thing timed and back together next weekend.
I'm gonna hold off on the supplier and see how they handle the return process. Pretty pissed because I had it expedited. And now I'm further behind. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ stuff like this happens. Just want to get this thing timed and back together next weekend.
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Who was the supplier, or is it a secret?
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Perhaps locate a fat o-ring that will fit the OD of the counterbore.....as long as it stands a whisker proud of the face it will seal fine.
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Shove the ink tube out of a ball point pen into the impulse hole, JB Weld the counter bore and sand once cured, what have you got to loose?
Or, like @Cantdog suggests- you could "make" and o-ring the same way with the tapered nozzle off a liquid gasket maker tube in the impulse hole and fill the counterbore with liquid gasket material. Once cured the tapered tube should pull out leaving you a perfect fit o-ring.
Or, like @Cantdog suggests- you could "make" and o-ring the same way with the tapered nozzle off a liquid gasket maker tube in the impulse hole and fill the counterbore with liquid gasket material. Once cured the tapered tube should pull out leaving you a perfect fit o-ring.
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OR......stick with a used OEM cyl.......
That's a good idea, I may do that with a better cylinder even. From what I've read and watched, most these heads seems to be notorious for intake gasket airleaks. This head needs to go back though, to many issues. My guess with the machining would be the casting was set up wrong in the first operation.
Maybe I'll do that, where would be a good place to obtain a lightly used one. Didn't seem to be many around in my extensive "Google research"lol. I may just put a new oem on it, from what I've read and watched the AM seem to have much better timing out of the box. This saw is from 81 and I was with my grandfather when he bought it in Kalamazoo, MI. I was just gonna go back through it with new seals and bearings(still good)...
.... than I started hanging out in forums and researching stuff...
My clutch has a cracked face, my oil gear stripped, it's a course thread crank so I "had to" find a new OEM 10mm crank that will also work with my old 2 piece ignition fly wheel, also 10mm. Pop up piston, caber ring, new tillotson carb, OEM intake/gastet, used gray top (didn't wanna cut my original white) to fit 272 under... So it should be pretty freshened up by the time I'm done. LoL
Not a secret, just gonna see how they handle my cylinder issue, so when I do comment one way or the other it will be a more complete picture of my experience with them.
OK, So here is where I am at with this. Spoke with the supplier "HL Supply" this morning first thing. Explained my problem, the young lady I spoke with had me send her some pictures of the issue(s). She than had a gentleman from the warehouse call me to get clarification of my problem(s) so he could find one where the issue was not as pronounced.
Unable to do so they shipped me a new meteor cylinder kit which I can only hope is of better quality. They also emailed me a return label for the faulty Hyway set I have now. So all in all, I am please with the supplier and the fact they are shipping me a new cylinder kit. I really hope this one is better than the last. I will post more here again when the meteor is in my hands and if I feel I have been made whole. I may also start a new thread discussing and comparing the 2 cylinders.
Side note. I may just start a new build and put my Heirloom 61 back together with the new OEM crank I received today from chainsawr.com The biggest problem with this build so far was finding a good (let alone NEW) OEM crank with 10mm threads on both ends. The amount of misinformation regaurding a saw this old is staggering.
Unable to do so they shipped me a new meteor cylinder kit which I can only hope is of better quality. They also emailed me a return label for the faulty Hyway set I have now. So all in all, I am please with the supplier and the fact they are shipping me a new cylinder kit. I really hope this one is better than the last. I will post more here again when the meteor is in my hands and if I feel I have been made whole. I may also start a new thread discussing and comparing the 2 cylinders.
Side note. I may just start a new build and put my Heirloom 61 back together with the new OEM crank I received today from chainsawr.com The biggest problem with this build so far was finding a good (let alone NEW) OEM crank with 10mm threads on both ends. The amount of misinformation regaurding a saw this old is staggering.
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