Anchor Bend

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JPS posted a picture of that knot a couple weeks ago, and I've tried it and like it. Quick and simple. It doesn't put as tight of a bend in the rope as some knots so I would imagine there is less loss of strength. I also like how the tail comes out parallel with the biner or clip rather than perpendicular. It is an excellent knot for some of us who still climb with a single rope and clip rather than a split tail.
 
But where and when do you use it?
The fact that the running end goes out sideways is not disturbing?

Sergio
 
I use it all the time and like it. A little disturbing, yes, but I put in a stopper knot (figure eight) to back it up.

Good to see you on AS, Sergio!

Nickrosis
 
Yes, good to see you back Sergio!

I use it when ever double ending a climbing line. It is usualy for a short lateral move so I bend an anchor with a long tail and use a Blake's. I to like it because it tails away from the gate of a 'biner and it unties easy.

If I'm using a splitail on a climbing line without a splice I use a fisheman's on a biner. It tails back up the line, does not creep and once the biner is removed, it pulls apart easily.
 
The way it comes out the side can serve up nicely to a friction hitch on the other side i think. The primary weight bearing on the knot is from the top.

i think the anchor bend is a simplistically beautiful knot, in design and fuction. The 2 choking rings, clamping down on the tail (with reduced pull from the turns of the rings etc.); with pretty much the full weight of the load is knotting at about its best design wise. Very positive lock. The size of the primary bend /bight in the line depends on the hardware and not the diameter of the line, to assess the knot's efficency of line strength, so can be adjusted. i've read where under heavy loads it will jam if wet!

i use it rarely, and then as a 2nd TIP without splittail. But think it deserves a looking at it just to understand other knots, as it shows some princi-pals very openly.
 
Originally posted by John Paul Sanborn
I use it when ever double ending a climbing line. It is usualy for a short lateral move so I bend an anchor with a long tail and use a Blake's.
Yes John, but in that case, isn't it better just a clove hitch?

Sergio
 
the clove has a tendancy to creep towards the load at times.

Probably won't the way I use it, but the only benefit I see in using a clove is that it will fall apart when the biner is removed.

Might find it jammed up against the fricyion hitch.

If the bo'lin is the traditional knot for climbing, and you want to swap it with a clove, where else would you do this working?
 
Thanks everybody for the input. I'll try it again with less prejudice and might come back to this thread when I have some more field experience.
I'm now preparing a knot guide to publish on my website so you can expect me to ask some more opinions regarding certain knots.

Sergio
 
Originally posted by John Paul Sanborn
If I'm using a splitail on a climbing line without a splice I use a fisheman's on a biner. It tails back up the line, does not creep and once the biner is removed, it pulls apart easily.

I'd like to hear what you think, but I don't care for the fisherman's on larger diameter rope. For small pieces of kernmantle, I agree that it's an excellent knot to use.

Nickrosis
 
I like the simplicity of the knot, but it takes up too much valuable biner space. I prefer the Fishermans, it only wraps the biner one time.
Greg
 
I use the fishermans on 5/8 stabilbraid all the time. The only place I don't realy like it is on a captive eye 'biner. since the 'biner cant be pulled out, it negates the advantage of the knot falling apart.

Maybe the anchor is Knot for you, Sergio. I like it because it is easy, neat, stabil, and easy to untie.

Greg, did you use the anchor on a splitail? I only use an anchor when not using a splitail. The line tails right out to my down rope to be tied off.
 
JPS,
I've used it for a split tail, and also tried using it to tie FP's, distal, etc.. that is really where the knot is too bulky, when you throw a pulley on a biner along with 2 knots.
I leave a split tail in my climbing rope bag, and one on my saddle, so I always have one handy.
I can see that climbing without a split the anchor would be the knot to use. In my life before split tails I used a bowline, what a pain that was to get the right length to tie my hitch.

I really need to learn how to splice.
Greg
 
Start with 3/8 Tenex doing rigging slings. Then you can do I&I's for your tress hitch. It is under .40/ft and you use a little more then twice the length of the cord you are making, so a 2ft VT cord uses say 4.25 ft, so it is under 2 bucks.
 
Consider the heritage of the anchor bend. For years it was used to tie the anchor onto the line. If the hitch would have come loose the anchor would have been lost. Besides the possiblity of wrecking, anchors are really expensive. A lot rides on the security of the hitch, in more ways than one.

The only place I use the AH is to tie in the end of a climbing line if I don;t have a split tail. The end fair leads out the turns in a nice lay.

Tom
 
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