Another 262XP Thread

[dellaquila]

Thanks to everyone who has 'liked' this thread and who have repped me! I just noticed i have a lot more bars under my name, I appreciate it!

I'm still waiting on crank bearings and to find orange paint that's close enough to Husky orange. Turns out that not many places in Fairbanks, AK carry odd spray paint colors.

I did get the crankcase split using a splitter I bought when I rebuilt my dirtbike engine a few years ago. It worked great for the initial splitting but now I need to figure out a way to get the crank separated from the flywheel side. I may end up buying the Husky tool if my local shop has them for $70 or less. If not I might just ask to borrow their for 2 minutes.

Anyway, on to the latest pics.

Got the oiler off, now for that pesky brass gear...
<table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/uFzzqn4Ela2fVv3JD8Diw9MTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-a3At-jb5224/T3qJUXvVzhI/AAAAAAAAE1E/UawxGw_dlOI/s800/IMG_5925.JPG" height="533" width="800" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/mark.dellaquila1/Husky262xp?authuser=0&feat=embedwebsite">Husky 262xp</a></td></tr></table>
<table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/Y2GGgrt9L83ssb8T1jTXU9MTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-mLpRCJH_WGw/T3qKQme-8MI/AAAAAAAAE1M/bt_dKWzCDu8/s800/IMG_5926.JPG" height="533" width="800" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/mark.dellaquila1/Husky262xp?authuser=0&feat=embedwebsite">Husky 262xp</a></td></tr></table>

After reading in a different 262 thread to use a pipe fitting, I went to Lowe's and picked this up:
<table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/mHyBmOEBT3rGLvAnU4Vf-9MTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-om8biKnKJsM/T3qLG71B5GI/AAAAAAAAE1U/s4lbx1zH80k/s800/IMG_5927.JPG" height="800" width="533" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/mark.dellaquila1/Husky262xp?authuser=0&feat=embedwebsite">Husky 262xp</a></td></tr></table>

Worked pretty easy, just thread the 1/2" side on and use a cheap puller to pull the fitting and gear off:
<table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/iAF_XvzrXBNsXNJWN_0_wNMTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-tqrMaIe6CUc/T3qLvtxNO2I/AAAAAAAAE1c/T7rLmWJHMPY/s800/IMG_5930.JPG" height="800" width="533" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/mark.dellaquila1/Husky262xp?authuser=0&feat=embedwebsite">Husky 262xp</a></td></tr></table>

Kind of hard to see, but I had to grind two lips for the puller to grab onto. It was a 2 minute job with a bench grinder.
<table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/11OFDe2IoOVqHbasWFY4AtMTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-3Bi-AAoGjU8/T3qMWmu7w0I/AAAAAAAAE1k/xaVF65dodp8/s800/IMG_5931.JPG" height="800" width="533" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/mark.dellaquila1/Husky262xp?authuser=0&feat=embedwebsite">Husky 262xp</a></td></tr></table>

Close up of the fitting and the brass gear removed:
<table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/9oCf70z7th69wwHdrO0gMtMTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-kxJrpdRIcfo/T3qMxWeumSI/AAAAAAAAE1s/x19JCIZeLe4/s800/IMG_5932.JPG" height="533" width="800" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/mark.dellaquila1/Husky262xp?authuser=0&feat=embedwebsite">Husky 262xp</a></td></tr></table>

Now to split the case:
<table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/ARn3vSzpMzDN5JI1DS9wA9MTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-koqqOcyEN0M/T3qNBnJOSnI/AAAAAAAAE10/3x--LUzZQ4o/s800/IMG_5933.JPG" height="533" width="800" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/mark.dellaquila1/Husky262xp?authuser=0&feat=embedwebsite">Husky 262xp</a></td></tr></table>

I had to add some washers to give the chain adjustment pawl some clearance. Or I guess I could've just removed it...which I did later.
<table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/do0o5XkRg3TAfaMywkYaF9MTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-ntl2pQ2Wixg/T3qNRZoF30I/AAAAAAAAE18/4HgE6O797kE/s800/IMG_5934.JPG" height="533" width="800" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/mark.dellaquila1/Husky262xp?authuser=0&feat=embedwebsite">Husky 262xp</a></td></tr></table>

 

[dellaquila]

Here's the case being split:
<table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/kz9APVrihnQqaJVyf7L0ItMTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-7xZGHDp3q4A/T3qNjq-tQFI/AAAAAAAAE2E/3QsEd3Gsbs8/s800/IMG_5935.JPG" height="533" width="800" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/mark.dellaquila1/Husky262xp?authuser=0&feat=embedwebsite">Husky 262xp</a></td></tr></table>

Aaaaaaaaaannnnnnnnd success.
<table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/-PfOqUPaCMP0YhQMMWwBytMTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-LMlEwtrS88Y/T3qNz1GpTcI/AAAAAAAAE2M/e90j9npPP2s/s800/IMG_5936.JPG" height="533" width="800" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/mark.dellaquila1/Husky262xp?authuser=0&feat=embedwebsite">Husky 262xp</a></td></tr></table>

Random pictures of case halves:
<table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/yleOsv9QUNEx6t3Fsz8j39MTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-dntcT-tJ9s0/T3qOHB_r39I/AAAAAAAAE2U/Cs1TkrWbDtQ/s800/IMG_5937.JPG" height="533" width="800" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/mark.dellaquila1/Husky262xp?authuser=0&feat=embedwebsite">Husky 262xp</a></td></tr></table>
<table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/HX2Ryjf65pNvzFNW4fV5LtMTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-eLCapfMJBrQ/T3qOZYKU7-I/AAAAAAAAE2c/gSpUJXuDW0Y/s800/IMG_5938.JPG" height="533" width="800" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/mark.dellaquila1/Husky262xp?authuser=0&feat=embedwebsite">Husky 262xp</a></td></tr></table>
<table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/ph0qdAekTgWZqWwyg6pBBNMTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-M-xXNUZ4VsI/T3qOrYJvwsI/AAAAAAAAE2k/5VCVkBZodfY/s800/IMG_5939.JPG" height="533" width="800" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/mark.dellaquila1/Husky262xp?authuser=0&feat=embedwebsite">Husky 262xp</a></td></tr></table>
<table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/d8B41a3pg9_w35dPHHkS-dMTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-bT4l4N5ArF0/T3qO8yMxXvI/AAAAAAAAE2s/1_h0AUOTaFc/s800/IMG_5940.JPG" height="533" width="800" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/mark.dellaquila1/Husky262xp?authuser=0&feat=embedwebsite">Husky 262xp</a></td></tr></table>

Bar studs removed:
<table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/7O4qKjjNn5gGZ_UD3dtkU9MTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-fxNqp0A2n3E/T3qPQpZJrtI/AAAAAAAAE20/mgUQCQcGlJ8/s800/IMG_5941.JPG" height="533" width="800" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/mark.dellaquila1/Husky262xp?authuser=0&feat=embedwebsite">Husky 262xp</a></td></tr></table>

One crank bearing and (what's left of a) seal removed:
<table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/4aDvIt4SSYmtb4LZN9680NMTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-ujdaBA7Q8aY/T3qPlFpZ9OI/AAAAAAAAE28/P4U5J0GtvA4/s800/IMG_5942.JPG" height="533" width="800" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/mark.dellaquila1/Husky262xp?authuser=0&feat=embedwebsite">Husky 262xp</a></td></tr></table>

Hopefully I'll get a chance this week to stop by the Husky dealer and see about a splitter to remove the crank. Then I need to find a soda or bead blaster in Fairbanks to remove the paint so I can freshen it up. Thanks for reading

 

[SkippyKtm]

Thanks to everyone who has 'liked' this thread and who have repped me! I just noticed i have a lot more bars under my name, I appreciate it!

I'm still waiting on crank bearings and to find orange paint that's close enough to Husky orange. Turns out that not many places in Fairbanks, AK carry odd spray paint colors.

I did get the crankcase split using a splitter I bought when I rebuilt my dirtbike engine a few years ago. It worked great for the initial splitting but now I need to figure out a way to get the crank separated from the flywheel side. I may end up buying the Husky tool if my local shop has them for $70 or less. If not I might just ask to borrow their for 2 minutes.

Looks like you're doing a first class job on the 262 restoration!
Just my two cents on paint...
I have done a lot of work like this, and I have the best luck with a single stage (sometimes I use 2 stage, solid base with a urethane clear) hardener activated urethane. The urethanes are very tough oil and gas resistant paints, they dry all the way through (due to the catalyst) and cover very well. Its pricey stuff, and you'll need to go to a auto paint supply place and have them match it (find a place that has a good reputation for color matching), but its worth it. Its pretty much what the original factory finish was.
Some people say that powder coat is even tougher, but I've never tried it because I'm happy with the results of urethane. Powder coat is also not what the original finish was on most modern saws.
Be sure to use the correct primer for magnesium, A primer for aluminum will not work unless its specifically stated that it works on magnesium as well. I buy primer from the same supplier as the color matched stuff. The correct primer is just as important as the top finish. You don't want the paint to flake off with a slight impact, you want this stuff as tough as possible...
Regular Rattle can paints don't hold up well to fuel, oil and general banging around.:msp_wink:

 

[SawTroll]

The orange Husky "paint" used recently is hard to beat when it comes to wear resistance, and it doesn't flake off like the white Stihl paint does.....

 

[dellaquila]

Looks like you're doing a first class job on the 262 restoration!
Just my two cents on paint...
I have done a lot of work like this, and I have the best luck with a single stage (sometimes I use 2 stage, solid base with a urethane clear) hardener activated urethane. The urethanes are very tough oil and gas resistant paints, they dry all the way through (due to the catalyst) and cover very well. Its pricey stuff, and you'll need to go to a auto paint supply place and have them match it (find a place that has a good reputation for color matching), but its worth it. Its pretty much what the original factory finish was.
Some people say that powder coat is even tougher, but I've never tried it because I'm happy with the results of urethane. Powder coat is also not what the original finish was on most modern saws.
Be sure to use the correct primer for magnesium, A primer for aluminum will not work unless its specifically stated that it works on magnesium as well. I buy primer from the same supplier as the color matched stuff. The correct primer is just as important as the top finish. You don't want the paint to flake off with a slight impact, you want this stuff as tough as possible...
Regular Rattle can paints don't hold up well to fuel, oil and general banging around.:msp_wink:

Thanks for the info. I may check a few paint stores to see what they have to offer. Would I need a paint sprayer to apply the urethane paint? I don't have a compressor that puts out enough CFM for spraying paint... or a sprayer for that matter. That's why I was hoping the Valspar Husky or Kubota orange would work. Might be a moot point though since I can't even find that in this town. :msp_mad:

 

[SkippyKtm]

Thanks for the info. I may check a few paint stores to see what they have to offer. Would I need a paint sprayer to apply the urethane paint? I don't have a compressor that puts out enough CFM for spraying paint... or a sprayer for that matter. That's why I was hoping the Valspar Husky or Kubota orange would work. Might be a moot point though since I can't even find that in this town. :msp_mad:

I use a Sharpe Finex FX100 Mini HVLP gun. It wasn't too expensive (about $80) Its similar to the newer FX1000:
LINK

The Mini's don't use much air at all. I use a large compressor, but I'll bet you could get by with a tiny 110v contractor portable. The big one (it has an 80 gallon tank) usually never comes on.

 

[ft. churchill]

DQ, your serial number breaks down like this... year of manufacture199"2" "19" th week of that year, "523" unit from that week. Also noted that your cylinder has a date code on it of 11/ 91. That would coincide with a build date in 1992.
Looks like a nice build up. Keep us infoed.

 

[dellaquila]

DQ, your serial number breaks down like this... year of manufacture199"2" "19" th week of that year, "523" unit from that week. Also noted that your cylinder has a date code on it of 11/ 91. That would coincide with a build date in 1992.
Looks like a nice build up. Keep us infoed.

Thanks, I thought that was how the serial number worked but I wanted to make sure. I think it's odd that this saw had the metal crank bearing keeper and the HDA 87 but it doesn't have a compression release. I'd like to find a breakdown of the exact changes they made with each model year. I'll be sure to keep yall informed. I like writing and taking the pictures as much as I do the rebuilding. Right now I'm waiting to find a soda blaster or bead blaster in town.

 

[Lingham]

Thanks, I thought that was how the serial number worked but I wanted to make sure. I think it's odd that this saw had the metal crank bearing keeper and the HDA 87 but it doesn't have a compression release. I'd like to find a breakdown of the exact changes they made with each model year. I'll be sure to keep yall informed. I like writing and taking the pictures as much as I do the rebuilding. Right now I'm waiting to find a soda blaster or bead blaster in town.

Kindly, if you are feeling tenacious then go through all the Husqvarna IPL's to find changes made over the years. The 1991 IPL has the HDA87. I do not find it odd those parts are on your 1992 model, as they are on mine too and the IPL's coincide. If you look at the 1994 IPL's you will witness a number of changes - one being the deco-valve :msp_smile:

Regards, more pics please

 

[dellaquila]

Maybe this summer when I get a little time I'll print out all the IPLs and compare them. I knew the carb and decomp made sense, but even going back to the oldest IPL it shows the metal crank bearing retainer. There's another thread HERE that shows the plastic one used on older 262s. I know mine isn't the XPG version so they must've changed to the metal one between 1990 and 1992.

 

[Lingham]

On the two pictures of the bottom of the top cover, there's a little white plastic piece that can be slid into 1 of 2 slots. I have a picture of it in each one. What's the purpose of moving it to the one that leaves the gap? It seems to me that the air filter would just have access to air above the cylinder which I imagine would be fairly warm... is that for running in cold temps?

Also, does anyone know where I can get a 262XP sticker like the original air filter cover had? All I've found is the starter housing cover (which I already have).

I'm still hoping to get the crankcase split sometime soon and get everything cleaned up then painted. I may replace the crank bearings since I'll have it apart anyway, but I haven't decided yet. I've already ordered new seals for it.

Hey, I forgot to mention that you can get the stickers and decals at chainsawr. How is the painting going?

 

[SawTroll]

Thanks, I thought that was how the serial number worked but I wanted to make sure. I think it's odd that this saw had the metal crank bearing keeper and the HDA 87 but it doesn't have a compression release. I'd like to find a breakdown of the exact changes they made with each model year. I'll be sure to keep yall informed. I like writing and taking the pictures as much as I do the rebuilding. Right now I'm waiting to find a soda blaster or bead blaster in town.

If you look at the different IPLs that is linked up to Huskys US website, that may help......:msp_wink:

 

[dellaquila]

Hey, I forgot to mention that you can get the stickers and decals at chainsawr. How is the painting going?

Thanks, I did buy a decal set from chainsawr. The painting isn't going yet. I have it all ready to be bead blasted and painted but haven't had the time to do it. Maybe tomorrow afternoon. I think I have everything needed to put it all back together now too, from crank bearings to fuel line. Hopefully I'll have some pictures of the saw coming back together soon

 

[dellaquila]

If you look at the different IPLs that is linked up to Huskys US website, that may help......:msp_wink:

I have looked through the IPLs... lots of time. I don't see any that show a plastic bearing seal retainer. Do they update the pictures when parts are superseded? Also, since you seem to be the chainsaw encyclopedia around here, riddle me this: why do the IPLs overlap in years? That is, why are there numerous IPLs that would/should work for a 1992 saw, for example? It seems that there should be a single IPL for each year or group of years when the saws had identical components. The overlapping baffles me.

 

[SawTroll]

I have looked through the IPLs... lots of time. I don't see any that show a plastic bearing seal retainer. Do they update the pictures when parts are superseded? Also, since you seem to be the chainsaw encyclopedia around here, riddle me this: why do the IPLs overlap in years? That is, why are there numerous IPLs that would/should work for a 1992 saw, for example? It seems that there should be a single IPL for each year or group of years when the saws had identical components. The overlapping baffles me.

I agree that all detail changes can't be read out of the IPLs, but it is a good place to start looking. Often the details are in Technical Info documents that at best are availiable on the dealers websites, and that I don't have access to many of at the moments. Some answers can't even be found there.
The IPLs are dated by year and month, but I don't really understand what you mean by overlapping? It is a fact that it varies a lot how long there are between the new editions though - which is only natural to me....

 

[dellaquila]

Finally had some time to work on the 262 again. Used a bead blaster at the Husky shop but it was slow going. I brought it home and sprayed some stripper on it and tried to get the bulk off and then bead blasted it again today. I think it's stripped enough to paint, not many rough spots at all.

<table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/gL2UwmOnRdy7xq1bk0yaRNMTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-mC0AQjFKW60/T6iv1eqiYoI/AAAAAAAAE4I/Jy3Q4CZVZII/s800/IMG_6055.JPG" height="533" width="800" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/mark.dellaquila1/Husky262xp?authuser=0&feat=embedwebsite">Husky 262xp</a></td></tr></table>

<table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/TRO5fCNlpML8HkFSQyOC7dMTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-MEqDzk4G2_c/T6iwlZsg1QI/AAAAAAAAE4Q/_ik6Z6cek3Y/s800/IMG_6056.JPG" height="533" width="800" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/mark.dellaquila1/Husky262xp?authuser=0&feat=embedwebsite">Husky 262xp</a></td></tr></table>

<table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/lEPcUAAIygzSW-Xx4sfVn9MTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-WQPGwuQyAaw/T6ixupN1L5I/AAAAAAAAE4Y/usNdTxMJKIc/s800/IMG_6057.JPG" height="800" width="533" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/mark.dellaquila1/Husky262xp?authuser=0&feat=embedwebsite">Husky 262xp</a></td></tr></table>

<table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/eGswbpBfSBfskzo6-EpX19MTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-_GMe30S_dwo/T6izsils6kI/AAAAAAAAE4o/amd-ZCmEYbc/s800/IMG_6059.JPG" height="533" width="800" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/mark.dellaquila1/Husky262xp?authuser=0&feat=embedwebsite">Husky 262xp</a></td></tr></table>

And a close up of the one top cover bolt hole I tried to fix. Slapped some QuikSteel on there with a bolt in what was left of the threads. Hopefully it holds up for a while.

<table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/p5MUGmGa8qHwdsPRbSm-M9MTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-8eBRbHqpHNo/T6iy4CGP5DI/AAAAAAAAE4g/uAJ51K1CzWE/s800/IMG_6058.JPG" height="533" width="800" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/mark.dellaquila1/Husky262xp?authuser=0&feat=embedwebsite">Husky 262xp</a></td></tr></table>

 

[SkippyKtm]

And a close up of the one top cover bolt hole I tried to fix. Slapped some QuikSteel on there with a bolt in what was left of the threads. Hopefully it holds up for a while.

<table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/p5MUGmGa8qHwdsPRbSm-M9MTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-8eBRbHqpHNo/T6iy4CGP5DI/AAAAAAAAE4g/uAJ51K1CzWE/s800/IMG_6058.JPG" height="533" width="800" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/mark.dellaquila1/Husky262xp?authuser=0&feat=embedwebsite">Husky 262xp</a></td></tr></table>

I'm not familiar with "quicksteel" but I suspect its a lot like JB weld. You are doing such a fine job on this restoration I wouldn't compromise and use the epoxy. If you can find a welding shop that does magnesium that would be a relatively easy job for them, a single pass would do it (you need to bead blast with every pass you do on magnesium). I do some magnesium welding and the biggest hurdle is the cost of the darn filler rod. Good luck in whatever you decide.

Just a thought, a new or good used case half could be an option as well...

 

[SawTroll]

OK, Point taken Thank you.


I would like to post another question which stems from this topic, but certainly not intended for argument. Asking because I have saws with both these carbs.

The attached DLG report shows a picture of an older model 262xp (tool compartment rear handle) and we know HDA87 were used on them.

However the repot is dated 1997 and it clearly states the test saw had an HDA120 carb on it (makes sense).

That saw tested 3.6kw or 4.9hp, which we all can agree is impressive for a 62cc. Figuratively speaking, why would I not want the HDA120 carb when it can do that?

I think that the law of diminishing returns must come into play, with the size of the venturi, but I certainly do not know.

I have a printed hard copy of the 262xp owners manual, it specs power at 3.4kw or 4.6hp. This being the discrepancy which drives me nuts. The advertised specs were 3.4kW/4.7hp on the late production saws (it is possible if the 3.4kW was a rounded down number).

Could it be that owners manual data is based on an early model saw? That is not the case here, more likely the manual stated just 3.4kW, and you assumed it meant 4.6hp.......

Regards,

I made some "hairsplitting" :biggrin: comments in blue.

 

[dellaquila]

Thanks for the compliment but I can't find a magnesium welder up here. The saw shop laughed when I asked about welding magnesium and no one else has the stuff to do it. If the quiksteel (which is like jb quik i think) doesn't hold up, I'll try something else.

I think I got the bottom end ready to paint. I may have went overboard on the taping, but I wasn't sure how important blocking each threaded hole was. Anyone see anything I need to fix before I spray some primer on it tomorrow?

<table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/pQxHuWqsl8WoJXRU5MfUrNMTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-RtJU4vB4pOw/T6oUkkaNtMI/AAAAAAAAE54/5RLGu6lF-U0/s800/IMG_6088.JPG" height="533" width="800" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/mark.dellaquila1/Husky262xp?authuser=0&feat=embedwebsite">Husky 262xp</a></td></tr></table>

<table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/R1k6-1TLeBVHB_Gsji1IvNMTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-eRUpLzLbZoA/T6oVEffXMEI/AAAAAAAAE5Q/6-1OrS7bKSU/s800/IMG_6090.JPG" height="533" width="800" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/mark.dellaquila1/Husky262xp?authuser=0&feat=embedwebsite">Husky 262xp</a></td></tr></table>

<table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/CD6UulIAhzds3MkgljnA3dMTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-BToeJhBzSdU/T6oU1bfgNxI/AAAAAAAAE6M/lBD5C41vxCc/s800/IMG_6089.JPG" height="533" width="800" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/mark.dellaquila1/Husky262xp?authuser=0&feat=embedwebsite">Husky 262xp</a></td></tr></table>

 

[young saws]

I have the same saw i got from a guy i know, it wasn't running when i got it but about 250 pulls and some carb work later it runs and runs great! ill check my carb # in the morning and get back to you. :msp_thumbup: