Another TW-P1 Leak

[e-d0uble]

Greetings all. I overcame the leak I had posted about some months ago by replacing the Prince LS 3000-1. I want to sincerely thank the forum members for helping me out with this issue. However, just today I spotted another (and faster) leak at (I believe) the hydraulic motor. This leak must have just started as it's messy enough that I'd have noticed it before. I (actually my wife!) took a little cellphone video of the leak and posted it here: http://stinkfoot.org/splitter_leak.mp4 (it's about 35MB, so it might take a minute to download). Any advice in remedying this new problem would be (as always) greatly appreciated. I still have three or so cords left to split before I retire the machine for the summer so I'd like to get this fixed as soon as I can.

thanks again, as always.

-EW

 

[Oliver1655]

From what I can see, it looks like the shaft seal.

 

[WoodTick007]

Before you start throwing parts, money and time guessing how to resolve the leak.You can replace the pump for.$80-$150 and resolve the pump problem. The link is just one option of hundreds. http://www.splitez.com/log_splitter_pumps.html
You must determine the root cause of the seal/pump failure before replacing the pump. The fact you also had a leak in your valve tells me you need to look at your oil for contamination (water,dirt,metal shavings) also look at your lovejoy coupling for wear and proper alignment.

 

[Swamp Yankee]

From what I can see, it looks like the shaft seal.

+1

e-d0uble, I'm just thinking out loud here.

IIRC this is your second seal type failure in a short time period on this machine, and you purchased it used, or am I thinking of someone else. In any case not to stir up a hornet's nest but what does the fluid look like or did you change it? If this is a used machine perhaps the original owner ran it low on oil, overheated it and cooked a few seals in the process. Overheated hydraulic oil will have a mid to dark brown color with a distinct smell. If you're going to continue to run it with the leak, be sure to keep an eye on the hydraulic fluid level and add as needed.

Replacing the pump is not difficult. If it's just a shaft seal that should be a relatively simple repair. (Although without the pump in hand, or an IPL, I may be talking out of my butt here) If you still have the valve, that can be rebuilt with a seal kit as well. If you weren't so far away I'd say drop them off, I'd get the kits and do the rebuild for you.

Take Care

 

[e-d0uble]

Thanks y'all.. You guys rock.

WoodTick007: Would flushing/replacing the hydraulic oil and replacing the filter be good enough? I can always take the machine to the dealer the fellow I got the splitter from bought it at for complex repairs if need be. It looks like I can replace the pump myself, but who knows.

Swamp Yankee: Yes your memory is accurate: I did purchase the splitter used and this is the second seal-type failure in a short time. The fluid is clear and doesn't smell bad so perhaps it wasn't overheated. I knew the original owner and he was a fastidious guy.. I'm fairly certain he took good care of the machine.

For now, I'll likely run the machine with the leak and replace fluid as needed. When I'm done for the summer I'm guessing I'll flush and replace the hydraulic oil, get a new filter, after install a new pump.

 

[WoodTick007]

Thanks y'all.. You guys rock.

WoodTick007: Would flushing/replacing the hydraulic oil and replacing the filter be good enough? I can always take the machine to the dealer the fellow I got the splitter bought it at for complex repairs if need be. It looks like I can replace the pump myself, but who knows.

I would assume TW installed an inline strainer. It will most likely be mounted inside the tank where the suction hose connects. Might be best to call or email TW and ask. I know some of their new splitters have them mounted on top the tank for easy quick access and service.
Yes it would. . . But you would most likely have to flush it atleast twice if you find contaminents.

 

[Oliver1655]

If you end up replacing the pump, this will be an ideal time to get the highest gpm 2 stage pump your engine will support. You might even consider a larger engine if it is an option. If you upgrade to a 16 gpm 2 stage pump, (240cc/8hp engine needed), you should really decrease your cycle time from 13 sec to 9 sec. ( Most of these "22 ton" splitters only come with an 11 gpm 2 stage pump.)

When re-installing the pump, double check the alignment of the "Love Joy" connectors. If they are not in alignment it can cause premature failure of the seals.