Any tips on preventing wind damage?

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cj, anytime you have that much pressure you want to "Bore cut" it.

Here's one thread: http://arborist.************/showthread.php?t=16149
 
If it's the tree on the left in the first pic then you have a nasty on your hands. Looks like it is also hollow with an open fissure all the way up. Looks like there will be very little area for hinge wood on the heavy side of the tree. Also would be advisable to wrap the trunk above where you cut with a chain or heavy duty strap to keep the tree from "barber chairing" or splitting up the trunk.
 
DadF said:
If it's the tree on the left in the first pic then you have a nasty on your hands. Looks like it is also hollow with an open fissure all the way up. Looks like there will be very little area for hinge wood on the heavy side of the tree. Also would be advisable to wrap the trunk above where you cut with a chain or heavy duty strap to keep the tree from "barber chairing" or splitting up the trunk.

That's the one. Good idea about wrapping the trunk, I hadn't thought of that. My other thought was to wrap a chain around it, and attach the other end to my truck. I figure with a good pull it will come out (by it I mean either the tree or the rear axle of my truck).

One other thought I had. The tree isn't very big. What about just using a hand saw (or a small enough chainsaw), and cutting from the inside of the crack out?
 
I hate to get to into detail without seeing first hand. Just too much can go wrong. That tree is going to fall in the direction of the lean. The only thing you can attempt to do is guide to one side or the other depending on where you want it. If it was me I would attempt to drop it right on the open path. Don't know what you mean by cutting from inside the crack. Do you know anyone in the area that is experienced at felling trees? For your own safety it might be wise to get someone with some experience at this. There is just so much that can wrong with this even though it's not that big of a tree.
 
DadF said:
I hate to get to into detail without seeing first hand. Just too much can go wrong. That tree is going to fall in the direction of the lean. The only thing you can attempt to do is guide to one side or the other depending on where you want it. If it was me I would attempt to drop it right on the open path. Don't know what you mean by cutting from inside the crack. Do you know anyone in the area that is experienced at felling trees? For your own safety it might be wise to get someone with some experience at this. There is just so much that can wrong with this even though it's not that big of a tree.

What I mean from cutting inside is the crack runs all the way through the tree, and is opened up quite a bit. I figured I could put the blade of a saw inside the crack, and cut out. Please see the attached crappy drawing. Basically, I would follow the arrow.
My parents had a couple trees removed by their house a while back, so I could probably get him to come out.
 
Email me.  I'm a hoosier; maybe not too far from you, and if not, maybe can help you get it done.

Glen
 
Hey, I said maybe.  I'm only about 45 minutes south of you, but it would take me most of 2½ hours to get there myself.  In any event, it doesn't seem extremely urgent...

Glen
 
glens said:
Hey, I said maybe.  I'm only about 45 minutes south of you, but it would take me most of 2½ hours to get there myself.  In any event, it doesn't seem extremely urgent...

Glen

I'm not in any type of hurry. If you're ever going to be in the area, let me know. Otherwise, don't worry about it.
 
I've come in a little late and just skimmed the thread, but would like to add Matthecks Ratio for critical failure.

the aspect ratio for this is basal diameter:hight
if the base is concidered to be 1 and the highth is 30 you're in the nominal range

if the base is 1 and the hight is 50 then you are in the statisical range for critical failure.

The basal measurment is taken just above the flair where the rapid taper ends. so if the measurment is 12 inches at the base and 30 - 40 feet tall, then the tree should be able to stand on it's own. If the tree is 50 feet tall with a 12 inch base diameter then it should be culled.

This ratio was taken from statistical analysis of tree failures in Europe and was shown to be good for all norther speicies there. It allso prooved that stand grown trees do not develop to withstand moderate winds (I think Mattheck intergects a 'duh" or something similar here)

One can do this with a tape and clinometer (sp?) or buy Dr. Mattheck's sight measuring tool

One must allso realize that any tree can fail and that said failure is an indicator in meterological storm force analysis.
 

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