anyone know what knots to use on amsteel blue?

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I've been using 18' DB slings for some years now. I also have a 20' tenex for attaching the large steel porty, and I bought a 25' tenex for really freakishly big trunks (I have only used it once or twice, its a bit much, but nice to have).

The next slings I buy will be 18' tenex. Its stronger, and I like working with it much better.

one vote for tenex
 
for false crotch rigging what is better tenex or double braid and what is better on the ground for redirecting with a block tyed to a tree and pulling say with a truck?

Almost nothing beats a whoopie or loopie sling for convenience up in a tree (despite the fact that I don't own one), and the same would be true for groundmen on a redirect. Unless you are going to splice your own, that means tenex in 3/4".

If splicing your own, that still means you would need a hollow braid rope like tenex. I am looking into the Yalex referenced above by Moray. It has some very impressive energy absorbing characteristics, and I could make my own slings. Tenex has low stretch, Yalex has lots of stretch.

The different adjustable slings are neat to use, but unless you have a bunch of them, you will get into too many situations where the only one you have is the wrong size for the job. So you need plenty of them. I am too cheap for that option, and I don't have enough tree work to justify the investment.
 
Amsteel is good for when you have to use a long high tensile sling. It's biggest down-point is the wear characteristic. The tensile makes it worth the price, but you need a wear-guard on any rope on rope contact.

For common rig-point usage my preference is a Tenex loopie, really Tenex for everything except for very long but-ties for a porty or a redirect. Then i will use an old double-braid rigging line in a Stillson. Timber hitches are good for one or two rigs, because the need constant checking for creep in between load cycles.
 
Almost nothing beats a whoopie or loopie sling for convenience up in a tree (despite the fact that I don't own one), and the same would be true for groundmen on a redirect. Unless you are going to splice your own, that means tenex in 3/4".

If splicing your own, that still means you would need a hollow braid rope like tenex. I am looking into the Yalex referenced above by Moray. It has some very impressive energy absorbing characteristics, and I could make my own slings. Tenex has low stretch, Yalex has lots of stretch.

The different adjustable slings are neat to use, but unless you have a bunch of them, you will get into too many situations where the only one you have is the wrong size for the job. So you need plenty of them. I am too cheap for that option, and I don't have enough tree work to justify the investment.

Yup me too, I use my 3/8 truckers chain on the ground to fasten porty if the spar is bigger than my 3/4 loopie or my 3/4 dead eye because it works and I already have it:cheers:
 
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I use tenex I was saying me too am cheap lol:monkey:
PS: I did order 6 biners 11 loop runners and a heavy duty 4"pulley and 17"fanno hand saw though just yesterday!

are you really just cheap or is it the work isnt like it used to be.what lengh loop runners you buy are they for speedline work?what biners they have a way of disappearing of your truck don't they.
 
are you really just cheap or is it the work isnt like it used to be.what lengh loop runners you buy are they for speedline work?what biners they have a way of disappearing of your truck don't they.

Yup speed line got 4 25" up to 48" so will have several lengths then the hard trap biners 5 of the 12kn and one 24kn whatever kn means lol.
 
Blakes was showing me how he buys the webbing in bulk and ties his own loop runners - whatever length he wants. Made sense to me.

I am thinking about doing the exact same thing. You can buy it by the spool from Wesspur for .55 cents a foot for 1" tubular nylon. That would be a hell of a lot cheaper than buying premade slings.

The TCC shows you how to tie a knot and make endless loop runners. Beer knot or Water knot or something like that. Not sure, I've never made one before. On Rope shows you how to make them by sewing them.

It would be very handy to have a spool of the stuff around and be able to make whatever size you need.
 
I am thinking about doing the exact same thing. You can buy it by the spool from Wesspur for .55 cents a foot for 1" tubular nylon. That would be a hell of a lot cheaper than buying premade slings.

The TCC shows you how to tie a knot and make endless loop runners. Beer knot or Water knot or something like that. Not sure, I've never made one before. On Rope shows you how to make them by sewing them.

It would be very handy to have a spool of the stuff around and be able to make whatever size you need.

Yeah I suppose could have saved a dollar or so but these should do what I need of them and will be neat with little or no clutter!
 
48" loop runners at baileys are $8.95. At 55 cents per foot, you will pay $4.40 in materials. So there is a $4.55 per strap premium for getting it made for you [plus shipping!].

There is another consideration: all the loops from Baileys come in a different color for each length, making it easy to grab what you need and to do a quick visual inventory of what you have with you. Don't underestimate how important it is to easily grab the right loop when you want it.

When I am up in the tree, I clip one carabiner to each loop, and then carry all of them clipped together on my figure-8 or daisy chained down from that. So all the 3' loops are in one string, ready to use with a carabiner on them, and each of the other lengths is too.

The figure-8 gets a little crowded, but it does keep everything organized, and you can unclip it and hang the whole mess from 2' loop tied onto a branch or whatever. Plus, the figure-8 is always there if I really needed it in a pinch, too.

If I was going to make my own loops, I would buy some 12-strand rope and splice up some double eye slings. Smoother, stronger, and more reliable than the loops with knots, and the hollow 12-strand rope is real easy to splice. A short sling with two eyes would also be more versatile than a simple closed loop. You could always double it up to make it shorter and stronger, or run it single strength for greater reach.
 
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I like closed loops made from 5/16 and 3/8 Tenex. They are cheap, easy to make, and versatile. You can girth one to the stem for a foot loop or hand loop, girth it to a branch for rigging purposes or as a redirect, girth it to something to hang a block or to hang your saw or other crap, and so on. I doubt if there is anything a webbing loop can do that one of these can't do as well or better. I carry a couple with me at all times.
 
I think that if I wanted the "pound for pound" strongest, safest sling for hanging a block or other arborist tool from, I would make it out of polydyne from Yale.

It is double braid construction, which we know know is very tough and durable. It has about the highest strength of any rigging line that I can find, and it has way more "safe" energy absorbing capacity due to it's elasticity. Tenex is stronger, but not nearly as much elongation. It would be nice if all the rope manufacturers would publish their energy absorption figures like Yale does.

You could splice your own dead-eye slings, but there is no way you will make any whoopie or loopie slings. I don't know if anyone makes them for resale.
 
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just got it and was wondering what knots can be used or should it only be used with braided eyes.

A midline knot in most of the hollow braids will greatly reduce it strength as it will fail as a result of friction, as reported by others here. My home fix for making a long hunk of Amsteel shorter was taking a 2' piece and splicing a eye with a thimble on this short hunk. Than wherever I need a new point I just splice this into the long line whereever it is needed. Its easier to splice than unsplice but doable.
 

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