ATTN: Homelite fans

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Mike mandry

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Well, here it is. I kept my mouth shut until I had in in my hands.

Shipped to my door for under $100.

Bought it from the original owner. Said he bought it new in 1981 Still has the orig bar & chain, 404 roller tip with an 8T rim sprocket. has the crappy SDC fixed jet carb. Anyone know if this is points or solid state ignition ??

I guess I have to throw my SXL 925 off of the throne ??
 
Mike mandry said:
Well, here it is. I kept my mouth shut until I had in in my hands.

Shipped to my door for under $100.

Bought it from the original owner. Said he bought it new in 1981 Still has the orig bar & chain, 404 roller tip with an 8T rim sprocket. has the crappy SDC fixed jet carb. Anyone know if this is points or solid state ignition ??

I guess I have to throw my SXL 925 off of the throne ??


Mike,

Excellent buy. Now if you are willing to drop a few more bills I can send you some new Homelite saws. I sold my near new 1050 but there are still some more new ones around including a Wiz 66, 550 and 150.

Bill
 
my 2 cents

Being a Homelite (were they ever on the cutting edge after putting automatic oiling on their saws?) I'm going to bet points.

Now my point of view my point of view could be biased by an 028 Stihl my father bought new in 1984. That saw, many years later, suddenly cr#pped out. The condenser went bad and the POINTS were replaced at the same time. Knowing that the Stihl cost a bit more than the equivalent but competent Homelite, I'm willing to say the Homelite has points.

That said, if it has the original chain, the points ought to be good. At the worst, pull the flywheel (ugh) and sandpaper the points LIGHTLY and they should be clean of any corrosion that would have built up over the years. That's if you're really energetic. Most of us (me) would run the saw as it is.

:givebeer:
 
Nice saw Mike! I keep hoping I'll come across a 750 or a 2100 Super for a deal like you got. I don't think any of the C-series based saws ever came with an electronic ignition. Never seen a part or an IPL showing anything other than points.

Dan
 
1050 Bars

If you can't find one any where else I have an extra 30" Homelite bar with a 3inch, 3 rivet roller nose. It's from a C-5 and I think it will fit but there are other members who will know for sure (Bill G )......Bob
 
:angry: :bang: Well, I guess better you get this extremely great deal, than someone who would just part the saw out or use it for experimental purposes...

GB still makes bars for these old saws... (H) mount. You can go to acresinternet under bar mounts #16 for other company mount codes... I'm in the process of finding out how much a 50" bar for my C9 will cost to have special made from Cannon and I'm not liking the outcome "price wise" esspecially since it cost right around $230 for a regular 50" bar. The woman I talked to said it almost doubles the price when you have something special made and there is no way I'm going to pay $400 - $500 just for a saw bar, so I may wind up ordering a bar from GB if they ever reply to my inquiry I sent them. I haven't heard back from GB to find out how much a 50" bar from them will cost for the Homelite C-Series saws.

The reason I'm getting a 50" is because I allready have a 36" Poulan Pro bar that isn't quite long enough, plus with the planetary gear reduction I've recently acquired for these saws, a bar this size shouldn't be a problem, esspecially since it will handle a 36" bar so easily in Direct Drive;)

Greg
 
Way to go

Mike

Great deal. I've got a little super xl, per 70 and I love it. My Stihl dealer would rather shoot me that have me bring it in for what ever. :laugh: If it works why change.
 
Greg,
What pitch is the sprocket on your gear drive? I thought gear drives were for running the old 7/16 or 1/2" pitch chain that couldn't be run with a direct drive. I think running a .404 or 3/8 chain with a gear drive on a powerhead operating at around 7k is going yield a very slow cutting saw (but will have lots of torque!).
I went with 3/8 chain and 8T rim sprockets on my C series to get the chain speed up closer to the modern saws. If I ran a long enough bar to bog the saw I would go to a 7T sprocket and/or skip chain. The formula for chain speed in feet/min is FPM= (pitch)(2)(sprocket teeth)(RPM)/12
I went from .404 7T which gives (.404)(2)(7)(7000)/12=3299 FPM to .375 8T which gives (.375)(2)(8)(7000)/12=3500 FPM.
I find that the 3/8 chain with 8T sprocket puts about the same load on my saw as the .404 with 7T sprocket so the rpms in the cut are about the same. The difference is the 3/8 chain speed is 200 FPM higher, it cuts a narrower kerf, and it weighs less than the .404 so it cuts a little faster. Also the 3/8 is quite a bit smoother running than the .404 which is great on a saw built before they knew what "antivibe" meant.
Let us know what chain you are planning on running with the gear drive and what gear reduction ratio is has. Also what model Poulan bar fits the C series? Thanks, Lee
 
Farley9n said:
If you can't find one any where else I have an extra 30" Homelite bar with a 3inch, 3 rivet roller nose. It's from a C-5 and I think it will fit but there are other members who will know for sure (Bill G )......Bob


The C series, Wiz, XP series, 1050, and 2100 all share the Oregon F014 mount. The bars are around but not as easily found as other mounts. The majority are old solid nose bars. Also you can fabricate a different mount bar if needed.

Bill
 
OL'Homey, this is straight from the warnings that came with the gear drive... Oh this is the unit that I bought off of ebay a couple of weeks ago "brand new in box" and as far as the sprocket listings I have for the C-Series saws, they only listed 2 different gear driven versions (one for 1/2" pitch and one for .404" pitch)

A-58544 Planetary Drive Assembly
This Planetary Drive Unit is equipped with a .404" pitch sprocket. Use .404" pitch chain only.
Then it goes on to explain that it isn't shipped with oil and you must fill it up before use.

Then another warning states to not run the saw with the Direct Drive sprocket removed unless the gear drive is installed due to possible clutch shoe shatter and personal harm from the shattering...

Then it's got another warning about keeping the cooling fins cleaned out, so as you don't overheat the unit...

I counted the revolutions and have come to the conclusion of this being either a 2.80 : 1 reduction or a 2.90 : 1 reduction (counting was the only way I could get this info because it doesn't seem to be listed anywhere), but it does have the 8 tooth sprocket gear for the .404" pitch chain, which will speed the chain back up slightly over the 7 tooth sprockets that I use for direct drive (I have some 8 tooth sprockets for direct drive, but I believe that they are for 3/8" pitch chain - the rarer sprocket found on the C-Series saws, but then again, they may be for the .404" pitch chain)... It says that the 7 tooth sprockets on the gear drives were for 1/2" pitch chain, so I guess it stepped the speed up a little "sprocket wise", so the chain wouldn't turn too slow :D

As far as the bar goes, I will have to get back with you some time tomorrow (it is currently 12:30AM here) and that's even if I can get a serial or part number off of it...

I'm going to get some nice Mobil 1 75-90 syn gear oil to put in her tomorrow and run it on the C9 with 36" bar to see how she does, so I'll try to post some comments when I get back with you on the Poulan Bar number ;)

Greg
 
FPM= (.404)(2)(8)(2413 sprocket rpm)/12= 1299

Wow! That's less than 1/2 the chain speed of .404/7T direct drive. Better put a tach on it to make sure you don't over rev the saw with a "short" bar in small wood. I think these saws like about 6.5-7k operating rpm. I bet you'll be close to your no load rpm of 8.5k+ with the gear drive unless you find some big wood to put that 36" bar in. Be careful not to get the bar in a bind as I bet a C9 with that gear drive will have enough torque to break a .404 chain!Send us some pics or a video if you can. I've never seen a C series gear drive in action!
 
AHHHHH yes, I remember now --- The Poulan Pro bar doesn't have the Homelite C-Series mount, it has the Homelite XL-12 mount and all I had to do to make it work was switch out the bar adjuster for a XL-12 bar adjuster... I had forgotten because I hardly ever take the bar off, unless I'm switching chains and then there's the fact that up until recently, this saw hasn't been used much in the last 2 to 3 yrs.

The number, for anyone who is interrested, is BAR # 952-044355 and just below that number is - 3263 8018 GMM, then below that is Made in Canada...

I got through trying out the gear drive a little bit and here is what I got to say :clap: :cheers: I love it...
YES the chain speed is incredibly slow without a load "just turning on the bare bar", but then there's the fact that you can really plant in the dogs and pull all you want... All and all with the fact that you can "force" the chain instead of having to hold back a slight bit, I would say that "cutting speed wise", it actually cuts about the same speed, maybe a slight bit slower, but not much, plus it doesn't strain the motor too awfly much like the direct drive setup does... Perhaps I over stated that, the direct drive doesn't strain too bad, but it does a little when you have the whole bar burried. I think this thing could handle a 50ish inch bar nicely :) It was, however, an incredible pain in the butt to put on the saw. A 9 minute change out my keester and no way by yourself, especially if your using a long bar :dizzy:

I will post pictures of it in operation on my "Gear Drive Wanted" forum later this week, possibly tomorrow (late) or Saturday or Sunday, just when ever I get some free time. I believe I've allready stolen or used enough of this forum "sorry" and apologize for any subject changing I may have caused...

Thanks,
Greg
 
1050 Bar

Hey mike ! I sent you a PM about the bar and price but I think I may have sent it into neverland. Let me know if you have recieved it. Here is a picture of it. Made by Oregon and 30 in. long.....Bob
 

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