Autumn Blaze

[Parks406]

I'm new to this site and hoping someone can give me an idea or answer. I have an Autumn Blaze maple that I planted 2-3 years ago. It gets full sun most of the day. For some reason, it continuously grows (leaning) in one direction. I've attached a rigid, small diameter, stick to the tree to keep it growing straight, but when it out grows the stick, it starts growing in one direction again. I didn't know if this was a genetic thing or what. Any ideas or suggestions. I'll attach some pics.

 

[brnchbrkr]

Hard to tell

from your picture. If you could line up one pic with your trunk of the tree with the trim of your house or gutter, we might be able to pick up the lean of the tree better.

Also, some close up of the tree trunk and the ground. Your tree ball may have settled after watering hence the tilt.

Most here will agree to keep the root flare of the ball needs to be 1-2'' above ground level.

A close up of how you attached your cable/rope to the tree will get you a few more responses on how to cable a little better, if need be.

 

[Parks406]

I think I understand what you're getting at. Here are some more pics to help. Hopefully it's not to late for this tree. I eagerly await anyone's response.

 

[brnchbrkr]

Your Autumn Blaze

looks happy and healthy right now.

Thanks for the pics.

Could you take a couple more pics with the mulch, wood chips pulled all the way back from the top of the ball.

I see the little kink in the trunk and curious on how the top of the ball looks.

Not sure if that is what you are fighting or just a constant wind between the homes.

 

[Parks406]

More pics

Here's the pics. Let me know if there's anything else I can do.

Thanks again!

 

[brnchbrkr]

posted earlier

but post seems to be lost in cyberspace!

Will attach a couple of pics, (I hope), one will show roughly enlarging the mulch ring to incluce your stakes, so you can mow/trim easier.

Second pic will show a couple of lines, green and red.

Green shows we need to see all the mulch removed to get a better look at the top of the ball. and elevation it was planted at.

Red line will show the angle tree comes out of the root ball.
a. potted or balled it leaned and took on a crook?
b. after planting it settled in the hole a bit.

Take another picture with all the mulch pulled way way back.

Probably a good Idea to loose the black weed barrier. Good for sidewalks or patios, but not so good around trees and such.

 

[S Mc]

Parks, as Brnchbrkr has suggested, pull the mulch and landscape cloth away from the tree. Dig down, gently, until you locate the first structural roots. I see a difference in the trunk coloration which shows moisture is being held against the trunk, which you don't want.

This tree has no trunk taper, hence its inability to stand upright on its own. Staking only exacerbates this problem. A tree needs to have lower limbs to develop trunk diameter, it also needs to be able to move which sends signals for root development and, again, trunk taper development. Trees respond to their environment. If they never have to stand on their own, they won't develop the necessary reaction wood to be able to do so.

Questions I would ask would be how much fertilizer does this tree get, including fertilizer applied to your lawn? Was this a ball and burlaped, container or bareroot tree when you planted it? If it had an L-root or J-root the trunk could take a turn before straightening out.

This tree is putting all of its energies into growing straight up without developing lateral growth as well, unusual in our experience with Autumn Blaze maples which actually have a tendency to throw co-dominant limbs and become decurrent very quickly. Have you trimmed anything on this tree since planting? How big was it and how did its structure appear when planted?

Find the structural roots, widen the mulch area, and I also would not use the weed cloth as the soil and health of it will be better for having the mulch directly on the dirt. Then take more pictures if you will.

Sylvia