Aux. oiler with no instructions

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peter nap

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I bought an oiler from Baileys to put on my Alaskan Mill. It came with no paperwork, so I started putting it on. The bracket was a no brainier but the bolt was perplexing.

I looked on Baileys site and they had a picture but no How To...explanation.

I called Baileys and the fellow who usually answers my stupid questions, said " uh...I'll connect you with someone who's done it". I got voice mail and still haven't gotten a call back.

So...right or wrong, I did it my way. For the benefit of other sawnewbies...here's what I did:

Measure the Rings on the bolt and the depth of the groove on the blade. On the bottom edge of the blade and as close to the end as you can get without interfering with the sprocket, measure so the edge of the bolt rings will just clear the bar groove without penetrating.

Center punch and drill on a drill press.

Use a Dremel tool with a cutoff blade and carefully so you don't mar the groove, cut down and open a gap between the bar groove and the hole you drilled.

Use a very small diamond ball bit in the Dremel to clean up the opening.

Install the bolt and your done..(I don't think it matters but....I made sure one oil hole in the bolt was facing the opening in the groove).

Done!

This is Bailey's picture:

46801_L1.jpg
 
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Can this oiler put out the same oil quantity as from the chainsaw itself, i.e. if your chainsaw oilpump was broken? Is it just gravity fed?

Ted
 
Can this oiler put out the same oil quantity as from the chainsaw itself, i.e. if your chainsaw oilpump was broken? Is it just gravity fed?

Ted

Yes and Yes. Mine can delivery up to 44 cc/min but I generally run it at around the same as the saw 20 cc/min or maybe a little less. When I use chain/bar water cooling I use around 10 cc/min. As I use a hardnose bar I also have my oil (and water) bolts on the nose so as not to use up valuable cutting length.
 
Bob, when do you use water instead of oil and....when you use water,is it a water/dish liquid mix?
 
What sort of drill bit

Hi Guy's I have got a 36" GB bar I want to drill a few hole's in it , what sort of drill bit did you bloke's use , I tried to use one of my gold titaniam coated drill bit's , it didnt do a thing , I have used them to drill high tensile bolt's before without a hitch , GB bar's must be made of some very hard steel . Cheer's MM
 
I used the gold titanium also. Low speed and lots of oil. Drill a pilot hole first, it helps.
 
Bob, when do you use water instead of oil and....when you use water,is it a water/dish liquid mix?

I have two identical bolt holes in my bars. One on the cutting side and one on the other. On the cutting side I have the oil bolt and on the other I have a chain water spray. When I flip the bars I interchange the water and oil holes.See here for details.

I tend to use water cooling mainly in largish (>24") high resin trees like our Western Australian hybrid red gums that really clog chains which then puts an unnecessary additiona load on the engines..

Hi Guy's I have got a 36" GB bar I want to drill a few hole's in it , what sort of drill bit did you bloke's use , I tried to use one of my gold titaniam coated drill bit's , it didnt do a thing , I have used them to drill high tensile bolt's before without a hitch , GB bar's must be made of some very hard steel . Cheer's MM

Did you use a hand held electric drill? I found the same regular HSS drill in an electric hand drill wouldn't do gip but stick it in a drill press and with cutting lube it went straight through my 2 GB bars. Hand drills are also too fast. I use my drill presses slowest speed - 160 RPM . Drilling a pilot hole certainly helps - use a brand new regular HSS bit in drill press.
 
I have two identical bolt holes in my bars. One on the cutting side and one on the other. On the cutting side I have the oil bolt and on the other I have a chain water spray. When I flip the bars I interchange the water and oil holes.See here for details.

I tend to use water cooling mainly in largish (>24") high resin trees like our Western Australian hybrid red gums that really clog chains which then puts an unnecessary additiona load on the engines..



Did you use a hand held electric drill? I found the same regular HSS drill in an electric hand drill wouldn't do gip but stick it in a drill press and with cutting lube it went straight through my 2 GB bars. Hand drills are also too fast. I use my drill presses slowest speed - 160 RPM . Drilling a pilot hole certainly helps - use a brand new regular HSS bit in drill press.
Yeah I used my drill press and cutting lube the first time , but I may have goofed by not doing the pilot hole trick first . Thank's much appreciated Bob , Cheer's MM
 
I have two identical bolt holes in my bars. One on the cutting side and one on the other. On the cutting side I have the oil bolt and on the other I have a chain water spray. When I flip the bars I interchange the water and oil holes.See here for details.

I tend to use water cooling mainly in largish (>24") high resin trees like our Western Australian hybrid red gums that really clog chains which then puts an unnecessary additiona load on the engines..



Did you use a hand held electric drill? I found the same regular HSS drill in an electric hand drill wouldn't do gip but stick it in a drill press and with cutting lube it went straight through my 2 GB bars. Hand drills are also too fast. I use my drill presses slowest speed - 160 RPM . Drilling a pilot hole certainly helps - use a brand new regular HSS bit in drill press.
Yeah I used my drill press and cutting lube the first time , but I may have goofed by not doing the pilot hole trick first . Altziemer's must be kicking in .Thank's much appreciated Bob , Cheer's MM
 
I used the gold titanium also. Low speed and lots of oil. Drill a pilot hole first, it helps.
Yep I agree , after I read Bob's and your reply I realised where I goofed up . Thank's very much appreciated
 
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