Bar/Chain Conversion attempt MS361

[MapleSyrupGuy]

I picked up a craigslist MS361 that runs great but the bar & chain are BEAT. I have no back ups. But what I do have is a bunch of bars & chains from a Husky Rancher 455 that are in great shape. Does anyone know off hand if it is possible to convert my MS361 to accept these husky bars & chains that I have? It's the stock stuff from out of the box. Is it as simple as finding the right sprocket to switch to or am I thinking about doing something that is not possible or not advisable. Would save some good money if I could pull this off. Thanks!!

 

[Mad Professor]

You would have issues with the bar mount pattern and location of bar oiler holes. That is assuming the sprockets and chain match in pitch.

For some swaps they do make adapters.

Do yourself a favor and find a Stihl E or ES bar (3003) mount, that matches pitch of your drive sprocket, it's time to change that too, get a new rim.

 

[Harmon]

Even if the gauge and pitch are the same (which they probably are not) the bar mounts are different and the oil holes might not line up. I'd sell off the husky bars n chains and get a 20" oregon bar in 3/8 pitch 0.050" gauge.

 

[Mad Professor]

Even if the gauge and pitch are the same (which they probably are not) the bar mounts are different and the oil holes might not line up. I'd sell off the husky bars n chains and get a 20" oregon bar in 3/8 pitch 0.050" gauge.

One more thing with the mix and match; you might end up with a strange chain length , so harder to find chain loops.

 

[Stihl99]

Best to get the Stihl bar and chain

 

[Dennisthemenace]

I picked up a craigslist MS361 that runs great but the bar & chain are BEAT. I have no back ups. But what I do have is a bunch of bars & chains from a Husky Rancher 455 that are in great shape. Does anyone know off hand if it is possible to convert my MS361 to accept these husky bars & chains that I have? It's the stock stuff from out of the box. Is it as simple as finding the right sprocket to switch to or am I thinking about doing something that is not possible or not advisable. Would save some good money if I could pull this off. Thanks!!

Forget it, you would have to machine out the the groove to take ithe bigger mounts

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

I picked up a craigslist MS361 that runs great but the bar & chain are BEAT.

You still have the beat up Stihl bar- you have several 455 bars.
Lay a 455 bar on the bench and then place the Stihl bar on top, line up the tails.
Now, see what you have to do to make the Husqvarna bar fit the Stihl mount? Is it going to work?

 

[Mad Professor]

Post some pictures of your Stihl bar. If the bar is not bent, or the grooves wallowed out you can usually true the rails and it's good to go.

You can check the groove with a stack of feeler gauges.

 

[Wood Doctor]

Post some pictures of your Stihl bar. If the bar is not bent, or the grooves wallowed out you can usually true the rails and it's good to go. You can check the groove with a stack of feeler gauges.

I have saved several this way with some machining. Occasionally I replace the sprocket nose. A $10 nose replacement can save a $60 bar and it will work again for years.

 

[Mad Professor]

I have saved several this way with some machining. Occasionally I replace the sprocket nose. A $10 nose replacement can save a $60 bar and it will work again for years.

I had access to a machine shop with a vertical belt sander. Quick work to true the rails even, at perfect 90 degrees. Then finish by draw filing smooth and dressing the edges.

 

[Wood Doctor]

I had access to a machine shop with a vertical belt sander. Quick work to true the rails even, at perfect 90 degrees. Then finish by draw filing smooth and dressing the edges.

Uneven rails cause more problems than most operators realize. Cuts that pull left or right are likely caused more by uneven rails than a bent bar. That also can permanently damage a good chain.

In addition to a vertical belt sander, I've found that a drill press with a good table and a drum sander can be used, but it will do a number on the sanding sleeeve rather rapidly. I flip the bar several times. Luckily, I don't have to do it very often.

 

[Oldsawnut]

Or you can turn your bar studs down to the size of husky... 12.1mm down to 9mm... Would be nice if they sold them... Hint hint... Super easy fix to run the husky bars on Stihl... Easier yet before the studs were tapered.... If you don't have a lathe you can tape up the treads good put it in a drill and turn it down on a sander if you have one. I have also seen people file flat spots on the top and bottom of the studs but that really makes me cringe not sure why.. Or just buy the right bar.....

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

Or you can turn your bar studs down to the size of husky... 12.1mm down to 9mm... Would be nice if they sold them... Hint hint... Super easy fix to run the husky bars on Stihl... Easier yet before the studs were tapered.... If you don't have a lathe you can tape up the treads good put it in a drill and turn it down on a sander if you have one. I have also seen people file flat spots on the top and bottom of the studs but that really makes me cringe not sure why.. Or just buy the right bar.....

That might work for putting D009's on a 3003 stud set up, but will it still line up oil delivery slots with the oil hole on a K095 small mount Husqvarna bar that the 455 Rancher use?

 

[Wood Doctor]

Or you can turn your bar studs down to the size of husky... 12.1mm down to 9mm... Would be nice if they sold them... Hint hint... Super easy fix to run the husky bars on Stihl... Easier yet before the studs were tapered.... If you don't have a lathe you can tape up the treads good put it in a drill and turn it down on a sander if you have one. I have also seen people file flat spots on the top and bottom of the studs but that really makes me cringe not sure why.. Or just buy the right bar.....

The danger is that you can lose most of the flange on the bar stud when you do that and that flange is needed to secure the bolt to the case. Husqvarna holds the stud from its square back end, not from a flange that presses against the case. So, I like the recommendation, "Or just buy the right bar..."

 

[Oldsawnut]

That might work for putting D009's on a 3003 stud set up, but will it still line up oil delivery slots with the oil hole on a K095 small mount Husqvarna bar that the 455 Rancher use?

Yea my bad I was just referring to the d009 mount not the smaller k095....

 

[Oldsawnut]

The danger is that you can lose most of the flange on the bar stud when you do that and that flange is needed to secure the bolt to the case. Husqvarna holds the stud from its square back end, not from a flange that presses against the case. So, I like the recommendation, "Or just buy the right bar..."

The case on the stihls is threaded and really thick in that area. They are secured with the treads and just use the raised area as a stop when it bottoms out... I have seen plenty fail over the years in that area. The fix is to install 056 mag studs into the case after you drill and tap to the larger size.. The 056 uses the larger case stud size of the 088 but still the 3003 mount for the bar. Part number is 1115 664 2405 I believe

 

[user 122190]

There a people here that buy a new saw every week. Buy a bar off them. Most likely never use half the bars that come with the new saws.

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

There a people here that buy a new saw every week. Buy a bar off them. Most likely never use half the bars that come with the new saws.

Or one from someone that must have Tsu Mura light bars only.