ri chevy
ArboristSite Guru
Oooooops. I think I did a flat outside Chamfer today. 
:hmm3grin2orange: Just tried to square things up like when new.
:hmm3grin2orange: Just tried to square things up like when new.
Bar Maintenance
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jus2fat
Two Harley Fatboys
OK..so you put a file in with both file edges filing on both sides..sounds good on paper..!!
I've never seen this to be necessary as the chain takes off any inside...'rollover'..
(not saying it isn't lucrative...just not really necessary)
J2F
OK..so you put a file in with both file edges filing on both sides..sounds good on paper..!!
I've never seen this to be necessary as the chain takes off any inside...'rollover'..
(not saying it isn't lucrative...just not really necessary)
J2F
Your probably right.
I flip the bar every 5-8 tanks. And maybe pass a file over the edges once in between there.
I take the clutch cover off, clean all the sawdusk and gunk out, clean the bar grooves and oil holes out, and simple green the pretty parts at the end of a day of sawing.
A bit much, but just trying to take care of a $700 tool...
I take the clutch cover off, clean all the sawdusk and gunk out, clean the bar grooves and oil holes out, and simple green the pretty parts at the end of a day of sawing.
A bit much, but just trying to take care of a $700 tool...
jus2fat
Two Harley Fatboys
This thread needs to just DIE..!!
Warped5
WingNut
I clean out and inspect bars after every use.
For deburring, I use a pneumatic 1/4" die grinder with a variety of 3M Roloc pads/discs; makes quick work of it. I'm currently on the lookout for a cheap table saw someone is getting rid of so I can put on a large abrasive disc for truing up the rails.
For deburring, I use a pneumatic 1/4" die grinder with a variety of 3M Roloc pads/discs; makes quick work of it. I'm currently on the lookout for a cheap table saw someone is getting rid of so I can put on a large abrasive disc for truing up the rails.
SawTroll
Information Collector
So do I, and flip the bar. That is of course overdoing the flipping, but that's much better than forgetting to do it.....:msp_wink:
tolman_paul
ArboristSite Guru
Oooooops. I think I did a flat outside Chamfer today.
I think that is called sharpening :msp_w00t:
Pretty much what others have said:
- flip the bar regularly to get even wear;
- clean out the grooves, oil holes, etc. when the bar is off to keep the chain and bar oil running smoothly, and to discourage rust;
- file (or grind) off burrs and sharp edges to minimize hang ups or getting scratched;
- make sure the nose sprocket (if so equipped) turns freely.
How far you go to save or salvage an older bar depends on a number of factors: how much you use it, what you use it for, how much money you have/don't have, how much time you want to put into it, etc., etc. Some guys might put more work into bars for classic saws because they might be harder to find, or don't get used as much. Some really expensive bars are worth investing more in due to the costs of replacement.
The Oregon M&S Manual ( OREGON Maintenance and Safety Manual ) has some helpful illustrations in the bar section.
Philbert
- flip the bar regularly to get even wear;
- clean out the grooves, oil holes, etc. when the bar is off to keep the chain and bar oil running smoothly, and to discourage rust;
- file (or grind) off burrs and sharp edges to minimize hang ups or getting scratched;
- make sure the nose sprocket (if so equipped) turns freely.
How far you go to save or salvage an older bar depends on a number of factors: how much you use it, what you use it for, how much money you have/don't have, how much time you want to put into it, etc., etc. Some guys might put more work into bars for classic saws because they might be harder to find, or don't get used as much. Some really expensive bars are worth investing more in due to the costs of replacement.
The Oregon M&S Manual ( OREGON Maintenance and Safety Manual ) has some helpful illustrations in the bar section.
Philbert
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Something similar to this Bailey's - Pferd Universal Edge Sharpener helps keep the tops square, and I find it works well even on Stihl bars. It is a very agressive file.
dw
dw
mortenh
ArboristSite Operative
SawTroll
Information Collector
A lot of good info there - a very useful document! :msp_biggrin:
Oh Yeah, Nose Sprockets . . .
(This is also in the Oregon manual . . .)
I think that most of us think about worn rails, or sloppy grooves, when we look for guide bar wear. As long as the nose sprocket rotates freely, we don't think about it.
But if the chain's tie straps touch the bar as they go around the nose, it is time to replace the sprocket (not possible on all bars). Of course, you can still run it, but the chain will have more friction and receive more wear, than with a less worn sprocket.
Philbert
(This is also in the Oregon manual . . .)
I think that most of us think about worn rails, or sloppy grooves, when we look for guide bar wear. As long as the nose sprocket rotates freely, we don't think about it.
But if the chain's tie straps touch the bar as they go around the nose, it is time to replace the sprocket (not possible on all bars). Of course, you can still run it, but the chain will have more friction and receive more wear, than with a less worn sprocket.
Philbert
ri chevy
ArboristSite Guru
I thank everyone for all of your responses. Very helpful information given. :msp_thumbup:
:msp_thumbup:
Bingo
ArboristSite Operative
After every use: Take the side cover off...remove the bar/chain...scrape out the bar channel...clean...check for burrs...file if necessary...only takes a minute...clean oil holes w/compressor and make the nose roller sing...Use the air compressor to clean the cover and clutch side of the saw, make sure the clutch sprocket cover also sings from air (I want to make sure the sprocket is free to move, nothing caught under it)...get all the sawdust/oil off of it....make sure the oil hole is open. Sharpen the chain while off the bar if you want, ...reassemble...flip the bar (everytime...won't hurt and helps equalize wear)...reinstall and adjust chain for the next time...sharpen on the bar at this time if you like that. (I sometimes do it off the bar if I've been in dirt/rocks, etc...but on works well usually). Ready to go. I like to approach it as PM for the saw, knowing that I've probably done all I can to make it clean and ready and only need oil/gas to go cut. It's become a routine that doesn't take long and has helped my saw run for a long time. Simple but covers it all...I do this everytime I use the saw. That way I don't have to screw w/it before I cut again knowing that it's ready to go.
mad murdock
ArboristSite Guru
I have been milling with my 372XPW I am currently using 3/8"x.050 woodland pro milling chain, and a Windsor bar. I have milled about 5,000 bd/ft with this setup, am on my 2 nd milling chain, and i disassemble the b/c for cleaning and dressing about every 20 tanks of gas or so. I use compressed air to clean the saw, bar cover, and bar. I put the bar in a vise and draw file the rails with a 10" bastard cut mill file, to square the rails then debut after filing. I have replaced the sprocket tip 3'times and flip the bar every time I clean. I have also used this bar with my skip tooth full chisel chain for firewood 5-7 CDs a year, and have cut about 20 log truck loads of logs
With it over the last 6 yrs. about ready for a new bar now.
With it over the last 6 yrs. about ready for a new bar now.
WidowMaker1
Addicted to ArboristSite
best way to maintain your Bar is by keeping your chain sharp and cutters even, depth gauges dialed in, Oil hole open and good quality bar oil .....clean out the grooves regularly and flip the bar at regular intervals. And let the saw self feed. Best way to wreck a bar is forcing it to cut with a dull un-maintained chain.
Whistler
ArboristSite Operative
That says it all !
The only bars I have to dress are usually the ones I get on a used saw .
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