Bar rail maintenance question

[KMB]

I hope this isn't a dumb, I-should-have-known-better, question. Anyway, I won't know till I ask someone. Should the bar rails be flat (and square, and smooth) all the way around the bar including the nose and where the bar rounds off into the nose? Reason I'm asking is because I was having a good look at the condition of my bars and there is a groove in the rails just as the bar rounds off into the nose. The tip of the nose is flat, square, smooth.

Kevin

 

[Lakeside53]

yes, flat and square right up to where it rounds to the tip. If you can, grind the tip area also, but I usually don't bother as the roller fingers get in the way. If you're not boring, the tip wear is less important.

 

[KMB]

yes, flat and square right up to where it rounds to the tip. If you can, grind the tip area also, but I usually don't bother as the roller fingers get in the way. If you're not boring, the tip wear is less important.

Thanks for that. By the way Lakeside, I've been trying to PM you regarding 260 adjustable oiler conversions, but your PM storage is full.

Kevin

 

[Lakeside53]

Thanks for that. By the way Lakeside, I've been trying to PM you regarding 260 adjustable oiler conversions, but your PM storage is full.

Kevin

you're right.... I must have been popular in the past few days... I'll clear it..

 

[Sethro]

K, is this a laminated bar?

 

[KMB]

K, is this a laminated bar?

I don't know. I'm not up on the different ways that a bar is constructed. I have a 20" Stihl Rollomatic E and a 16" Oregon ProLite for my 260, and a 20" Jonsered (I looked it up and it's description is: solid milled bar with replaceable sprocket nose - I guess 'solid milled' is not laminated which to me means layers of material) for my 970.
Speaking of the replaceable sprocket nose, it has the grooves as I've already described. I'm assuming that the time to replace the bar nose is when the sprocket stops working - and just to file out the grooves, am I correct?
Since you brought up the 'laminated bar', can you (or anybody else) explain the different bar constructions?

Kevin

 

[046]

got a Silvey rail closer from Madsen's. Works Great!

to me that rail closer is a "must have" tool. simply draw file to straighten up edges.

 

[Lakeside53]

I don't know. I'm not up on the different ways that a bar is constructed. I have a 20" Stihl Rollomatic E and a 16" Oregon ProLite for my 260, and a 20" Jonsered (I looked it up and it's description is: solid milled bar with replaceable sprocket nose - I guess 'solid milled' is not laminated which to me means layers of material) for my 970.
Speaking of the replaceable sprocket nose, it has the grooves as I've already described. I'm assuming that the time to replace the bar nose is when the sprocket stops working - and just to file out the grooves, am I correct?
Since you brought up the 'laminated bar', can you (or anybody else) explain the different bar constructions?

Kevin

Laminated bars are made in three layers - the center being cut out to reduce weight. Solid bars are milled from one piece of steel, weigh more but are much stronger.

Tip replacement: Yes, went the sprocket fails or the tip gets damaged. Just grind the flat portion of the new (or old) tip to meet the existing rails.

 

[KMB]

Laminated bars are made in three layers - the center being cut out to reduce weight. Solid bars are milled from one piece of steel, weigh more but are much stronger.

Tip replacement: Yes, went the sprocket fails or the tip gets damaged. Just grind the flat portion of the new (or old) tip to meet the existing rails.

I learn somethin' new every day, thanks for the info.
The sprocket on my replaceable tip bar is fine. Glad that all I have to do is file out the groove. I don't have a grinder, so I'll have to hand file.

Kevin