Barber chair

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Leaner's aren't that bad if they aren't hung in another you just drop the tree in the same direction it's leaning. Do the face cut on the low side, 1 90deg cut in and 1 45deg down from the 90, do the back cut 90deg to the face and cut evenly on both sides leaving a few inch's to pivot on once it pops and starts falling ..... GTG

Use a sharp chain and be committed once you start !!! Hesitated cuts will barber or go it an unexpected direction. Have a clean and know escape path know to you before you even think about touching chain to tree that is away from the tree, not with it.

Hung leaner's .... they are fun .....
 
I use the bore cutting method for forward leaning trees. Actually I use it for darned near every tree. I've never used a strap or chain, but I could see doing so for that extra safety measure.

One cool thing about the bore cutting method is that when you go to cut the "trigger" you can cut several or even many inches below your bored cut. As long as you cut all of the fibers that make up the trigger, the tree will fall, but the action of the fibers pulling apart act as brakes and slow the fall. Pretty slick on my opinion.
 
Learn something new everyday....I've never seen someone use a strap/chain to help prevent barber chair before. How far above the cut are you placing the chain?

Thanks,

-Pat

Just out of my way above my face cut.
 
Leaner's aren't that bad if they aren't hung in another you just drop the tree in the same direction it's leaning. Do the face cut on the low side, 1 90deg cut in and 1 45deg down from the 90, do the back cut 90deg to the face and cut evenly on both sides leaving a few inch's to pivot on once it pops and starts falling ..... GTG

Use a sharp chain and be committed once you start !!! Hesitated cuts will barber or go it an unexpected direction. Have a clean and know escape path know to you before you even think about touching chain to tree that is away from the tree, not with it.

Hung leaner's .... they are fun .....

If it's a leaner, it's getting bore cut, & a trigger: Even on Oak.
 
That's probably a little more than I usually leave. On a medium to large tree I try leave somewhere between a 2x4 and a 2x6 worth of good holding wood. Bark doesn't count, obviously.

But, that's my general felling practice. I suppose on something with a dramatic forward lean I might leave a little extra. It would take a lot of force to pull a 2x4 apart.
 
Looks like Billy leaves about a quarter of the thickness of the tree for the trigger, is that about what you other guys do?

I don't cut many leaners so this is a good thread to read.
Depends on species of the tree and how heavy the lean is. That will dictate how much you need to leave for the trigger.
 
Looks like Billy leaves about a quarter of the thickness of the tree for the trigger, is that about what you other guys do?

I don't cut many leaners so this is a good thread to read.

That's probably a little more than I usually leave. On a medium to large tree I try leave somewhere between a 2x4 and a 2x6 worth of good holding wood. Bark doesn't count, obviously.

But, that's my general felling practice. I suppose on something with a dramatic forward lean I might leave a little extra. It would take a lot of force to pull a 2x4 apart.

A 2"x6/8" has seemed to work good.

I don't typically strap oaks that are still living,... but dead stuff & Popular, yep.
 
Learn something every day.

Really the few leavers I ever have to cut are aspen and they will normally break before they chair. However this is a good practice to use.
 
Learn something every day.

Really the few leavers I ever have to cut are aspen and they will normally break before they chair. However this is a good practice to use.
On smaller trees where there is not as much room for a bore ,you can nip the sides after your face ,then do a reg backcut and the back wont blow out .
 
I can imagine guys who cut a lot of black cherry or box elder or other species that grow out sideways to reach the sun need to do this a lot more.
 
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