Best combo bar/chain for alaskan mill?

[SLIMw]

I know ive seen this question more than once here but I cant find it. I have a 066 stihl, alaskan mill with a 32" bar. What is the best combonation of bar/chain to use with this mill. I have a .050 3/8 chain on there now and its about to work me and the poor saw to death.

 

[PineFever]

I started out the same way only with an 044 and 32'" bar with the 36" mill.
I switched to 10 degree ripping chain from bailey's and oh what a difference.
Here is a link
http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=WP375+30RP&catID=11830

BTW Nice Pic

 

[smokinj]

If thats the length you need your good to go with the 3/8 .050

 

[Frank Boyer]

I just used some Bailey's ripping chain to make two 15' long redwood benches. That is 45' of cut through a 32" to 24" wide redwood log. Used a 084 with a 48" bar. It took a while, but the benches have a fairly smooth finish. I didn't have to sharpen the chain for the whole 45' of cut. red wood is very soft and the tree had been down for around 5 years.

 

[BobL]

I know ive seen this question more than once here but I cant find it. I have a 066 stihl, alaskan mill with a 32" bar. What is the best combonation of bar/chain to use with this mill. I have a .050 3/8 chain on there now and its about to work me and the poor saw to death.

I don't understand why a 32" bar and 0.050 3/8 should be the cause of "working you and the saw to death". If you are finding milling hard work I think there are other problems with your setup other than the bar and chain

One thing I can see causing a bit of unnecessary effort on your current set up is the gap between the mill and the powerhead. This causes the powerhead to hang out in the breeze which, for a bigger saw like the the 066, will make the mill unbalanced. If possible I would bring the power head as close to the mill as possible. This will also reduce the distance you have to hold your arms apart while using the mill and reduced shoulder and arm pain. Its a lot easier on the operator if they can stand upright when milling but to do that requires something like a remote throttle closer to the mill so the operator does not have to hold their left hand out and down on the throttle. If you look in the Milling stick at post #12 you can see my stance and look at where my arms are - before that I used to get very sore arms and shoulder.

It could be that your mill is too short and you cannot bring the powerhead any closer. If so I would make or buy longer mill rails. Unless you are working in dense bush longer rails also help balance the mill.

With a saw like an 066 I reckon a longer bar (eg 36") and mill rails improve the balance of a mill even when milling quite narrow cants. I have 36, 30 and 25" bars to use with my bigger mill but I have never used them for milling - I mill everything from 40" down to about 20" in diameter with my bigger mill with a 42" bar and 54" rails, 54. For stuff less than 20" in diameter I use a 440 with a 25" bar but even though the 440 is a lighter saw it is not as well balanced as the bigger mill

Chain pitch/gauge is kinda personal - you have to try and see what works best for you.

 

[hazard]

I started out the same way but with a 044. My advice to you is add the auxillary oiler. I did not see any mention of this but might of missed it. It is the difference of day and night when I run out of oil in the extra tank. The chain seems to stop cutting and I am pushing harder.

On wood say 20" or wider I have gotten to the point of resharpening after every other cut in a 7' log.

Chris

 

[betterbuilt]

I was running brand new chain and found filling after every cut made a big difference. My production went from maybe 300 bft to around 700 bft from a simple filing.

The oiler is a good Idea also.

Another thing is the the bar. Mine was showing signs of wear and I wasn't sure of why. I found a thread showing what chain hammer was. I changed my sprocket and dressed my bar and made a new chain. That made a world of a difference.

Another thing I learned from this site is my saw came with a 3/8-8 sprocket and switching to 3/8-7 made a big difference.

post some close ups of your setup. bar, chain and any wear your not sure about and I'm sure someone can help you sort out whats wrong.

 

[lmbeachy]

[
Another thing is the the bar. Mine was showing signs of wear and I wasn't sure of why. I found a thread showing what chain hammer was. I changed my sprocket and dressed my bar and made a new chain. That made a world of a difference.


I can always learn something new, I have never heard of chain hammer, could you explain what that is. Lester

 

[betterbuilt]

I'm not the best person to go into what chain hammer is. I think it can be caused by the sprocket or from the bars sprocket getting to much wear. It shows up on the chain and the bar. I first noticed it when I had a chain tystrap on the chain break and I was wondering why that would happen. I'm sure someone has some to add to this.

 

[SLIMw]

Thanks for the info guys. I decided to buy a 28" bar and two new chains to close the gap between the mill and power head. I got on bailey's to see what size bar I need for 24" rails and it said a minimum of a 26" bar. When the bar finally came in today I got it on the mill and the clamps sit right on top of the nose ,even with the dawgs off. The bar is a roller tip and I normally keep the clamps away from the nose. I have the log sqared off to the maximum of the mill and I hate to cut it down any more. Im wondering if it will be ok to position the clamp right on top of the five studs in the middle of the nose? I really needed this lumber milled yesterday.

 

[BobL]

Thanks for the info guys. I decided to buy a 28" bar and two new chains to close the gap between the mill and power head. I got on bailey's to see what size bar I need for 24" rails and it said a minimum of a 26" bar. When the bar finally came in today I got it on the mill and the clamps sit right on top of the nose ,even with the dawgs off. The bar is a roller tip and I normally keep the clamps away from the nose.

You should be able to move the outboard end of the mill inwards so the clamp grips on the bar before the nose? That's how most mills are designed and used.

I have the log sqared off to the maximum of the mill and I hate to cut it down any more. Im wondering if it will be ok to position the clamp right on top of the five studs in the middle of the nose? I really needed this lumber milled yesterday.

One way around this is to not use the bottom half of the outboard clamp out and drill a hole through the middle of the nose and clamp and make a threaded hole in the top half of the clamp and bolt the bar to the mill. Mtngun will be along shortly to show you his set up. If you can do the same on the inboard side like this

If you do both sides you can take the chain off the saw without removing the saw from the mill.

My preference is to drill a 1/4" hole though the bar and insert a short "1/2" bolt through this hole - then drill shallow recesses into both the clamp bar pads into which this bolt can sit and clamp up moderately tightly.

 

[mtngun]

Im wondering if it will be ok to position the clamp right on top of the five studs in the middle of the nose?

A pic would help, but you shouldn't clamp the rotating part of the nose (the sprocket). The clamp needs to stay away from the sprocket.

Many of us have replaced the clamps with a bolt-on system, as discussed on several other threads. The bolt goes through the center of the sprocket and buys you a couple inches of bar length.

Otherwise, you need longer mill rails.

 

[Timberframed]

Amigo...you need to make thicker slabs! Drop it down to at least 2.5" and get into the meat!

 

[SLIMw]

I am using the oak in the pic for sideing. I wont be planning or finishing im just gonna leave the rough edge on.

 

[Timberframed]

OOps! Never thought of that...carry on...

 

[BobL]

Otherwise, you need longer mill rails.

???

What's stopping him from just mounting is outboard end closer to the inboard side?

 

[mtngun]

What's stopping him from just mounting is outboard end closer to the inboard side?

Then it wouldn't fit the log.

SLIMw, I don't understand why you bought a shorter bar. Yes, I know the 32" doesn't fit the 24" Alaskan well, but the solution is a bigger Alaskan.

I suggest you get 36" rails for your Alaskan and go back to the 32" bar.

 

[BobL]

Then it wouldn't fit the log.

DOH !

SLIMw, I don't understand why you bought a shorter bar. Yes, I know the 32" doesn't fit the 24" Alaskan well, but the solution is a bigger Alaskan.

I suggest you get 36" rails for your Alaskan and go back to the 32" bar.

Yep - that's the best thing to do.

 

[SLIMw]

I appreciate everyone's patience and replys im sure my questions have been ask dozens of times by people that are starting milling. I decided to drill the 28" bar I have on the outboard and inboard side with a 1/4" drill bit as explained earlier to max out the mill I have now.
The bit I bought was a dewalt self tapping bit for everything including metal, the best that Lowe's sales. It does not say on the package what the tip is made of. I stated drilling the nose with plenty of lube and before I got a small distance through the bit was toast. What kind of bit do yall use. I know I have read a post by bobL where he specified, but dang Ive read so many posts I cant find it.

 

[betterbuilt]

What did you use to drill the hole? a drill press or a hand drill