Best Hookeroon/Pickeroon?

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Best Pickeroon? (These are what's available at Bailey's...) VOTE FOR YOUR TOP 2 CHOICES

  • Logrite 30"

  • Logrite 36"

  • Fiskars Hookaroon (28" Fiberglass Composite Handle) XA22

  • Council Tool Hookeroon with 36" Wooden Handle

  • Peavey Mfg 36" Hookeroon (Hume Pickeroon)

  • Woodchuck Hookeroon (45" Aluminum Handle) WCT0745

  • Woodchuck Hookeroon (32" Aluminum Handle) WCT07

  • Oregon Sappie Lifting Pick (27" Aluminum Handle) 536320

  • Oregon Sappie Lifting Pick (20" Aluminum Handle) 536319

  • Something Else (I'll post below...)


Results are only viewable after voting.
20" & 24" It works lightly and the beaks are hardened pleasantly /Is there a subject of a log turner? Because I also have two nice ones made by myself
I'm not the creator of the thread, but you will not receive any objection from me for posting your "log turner". I am always curious to see what products people are able to engineer for themselves.
 
Google translate ;-)Of course, it was Peavey /The hook is 24 "8" fin and the tube is 55 "Somewhere I have a bigger one but I can't find it now :)
 

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I have something else :) I catch a 24 "beam but it can't be too long because the arms are not too strong
 

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Well guys, more of my Cardio Workout tools have been delivered:

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Busted up all these chunks -mostly quarters- today, with either the Fiskars Maul, or the Fiskars SSA, and put both the Logrite and the Forester pickaroons to task.

I used both to pile up these red oak chunks today... probably 40% were done with the Forester and 60% with the Logrite. I have to say, I like them both. Hands down, the quality of the Logrite is better than the Forester, but it's 4X the price too. After moving all these chunks, it barely even looks like its even been used. The Forester, on the other hand, loosened the head within the first half dozen chunks. I knocked it back down, and attempted to drive the wedges in further with the poll of my axe, but wasn't able to do much, except split the end of the handle swell. No biggie, a little Titebond II and a squeeze overnight in the vise, and it will be good there, but the factory hang job is terrible... as would be expected. When I first saw the "hook" on the Forester, I was expecting to have to "re-profile" it, but it actually works pretty well.

Both are easy to set the hook, and both hang on well, the Logrite a bit better than the Forester. But, at times, that makes it more of a challenge to get it to release too, if you don't have the angles right. The Forester releases pretty much right when you want it to.

The logrite is light as a feather it seems... I'd be surprised if it weighs much more than a pound, maybe 1 1/4 pounds. The diameter of the handle is just right, I didn't tear any callouses off today with either, LOL, like I did with my homemade pickaroon. The Forester weighs about as much as you would expect it to by looking at it.

At this point, I can recommend both. The Logrite just works... right out of the box. I don't know what kind of steel they make the point out of, but is some STRONG stuff! Very good quality!! The Forester, you should expect to re-hang it. But, it's 1/4 the price of the Logrite too. They both work well.


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I have a Stihl pickaroon and cant hook with timber jack. Both are made in USA, more than likely manufactured by Logrite for Stihl. Quality tools, better than wood handle ones I've used in the past.

You won't be disappointed, at least hoping your Logrite serves you well.
 
I have a Stihl pickaroon and cant hook with timber jack. Both are made in USA, more than likely manufactured by Logrite for Stihl. Quality tools, better than wood handle ones I've used in the past.

You won't be disappointed, at least hoping your Logrite serves you well.
I'm certainly happy with them so far. No way I would have gotten that much wood busted up and stacked (more or less...) without them.

I've read in several places that the Stihl pickaroon is made by Logrite, and all eyewitness accounts indicate that they are identical except for the paint.
 
I have a Stihl pickaroon and cant hook with timber jack. Both are made in USA, more than likely manufactured by Logrite for Stihl. Quality tools, better than wood handle ones I've used in the past.

You won't be disappointed, at least hoping your Logrite serves you well.
Do you find your "cant hook with timber jack" useful? I have seen them and always wondered how useful they would be for my limited noncommercial situation.

Just curious.
 
Do you find your "cant hook with timber jack" useful? I have seen them and always wondered how useful they would be for my limited noncommercial situation.

Just curious.
I don't use it all the time. It works well for logs that aren't straight, getting the bend of the log up high.

For straight logs, I try to get as much of the log suspended off the ground, at least 3 to 4 rounds worth, then cut half down on the other side of the jack, reposition jack to finish them off, rinse and repeat.

Otherwise, I mostly just use the cant hook to turn bigger logs when bucking. I find the jack is for situational use, but get by without it most of the time.

One thought I've had maybe for use could be suspending muddy, skid logs off the grown, to hose all the thick clay, mud off before bucking to keep chain sharper longer. This would apply more for logging on residential property though. No water and hose in the woods.

Also, if you use short bars, it could save your back. I use longer bars on saw, so I can buck standing up.
 
I have a cant hook, a log jack and a peavey. Working logs on a pile (on stringers) I use the cant hook only. Leave the others behind. For working up firewood in the bush, I usually take the log jack and use it occasionally. They are not as useful as it seems they would be. But with a long log on the ground, I may jack it up. Doesn’t take long to cut 4 blocks off the high end though, then you are back to cutting the low end towards the dirt. More times than not I just cut 3/4 through all along then roll the log and finish. The log jack works for that too, but you might need to take a couple turns due to the foot hitting the ground. The peavey is a new addition. Has not had much use yet. On first use it was a can’t hook. The point angle was wrong and it would not bite. Cut it off and welded it back on and now it does. Peavey is usually used to move logs whereas the cant hook is for turning. I’ll give it a good trial cutting next winters wood.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
I've posted these before, but I have several homemade ones. Tried a hookaroon from Grainger, (brand?) didn't work well..
1. Modified framing hammer for picking up small rounds to about 12 inches. Mostly use at the splitter. Striking face is a mini hatchet to break remaining fibers above the wedge. Claws sharpened in two directions. Handle with a flat spot on one side so I can tell orientation/rotation without looking.
2. Hookaroon made form an old axe. Works well, I just don't use it too much.
3. Long hookaroon I call a 'Harry Hook' because Turnkey invention. 7 feet long wooden closet rod (made one from conduit, but it was too heavy), conduit connector to spread out the stresses, and a 1/2 inch grade 8 bolt ground. Handle has flat on one side so I can orient it. This is for unloading the trailer and pull rounds to the rear, then lift onto the splitter. Don't have to climb in and out and hunch over under the topper. WAY better on my knees and back. Use it to retrieve buckets or boxes, all sorts of uses. Thank you Harry.

Edit: and a set of wonderful old railroad tie tongs. Top quality and backsaving.
 

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I'll also go against the grain of your survey. Although I re-hung an old head I found with a Youth Ax handle. I haven't found one I like enough to declare a winner. I usually leave it hanging in my shed. It is my opinion that a son, or two, make the best firewood handling aids.

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That's very cool Jer.
I'm all about reuse, recycle too.
The old stuff was made WAY better than today, IMO.
I like the story behind it too.
 
So I’ve been lurking on this thread and considering buying one too now. I mentioned this to my wife the other day and she asked me why couldn’t I just keep using my pulp hooks? I replied by saying absolutely buttttt.. there’s someone locally selling some at $25 each (CAD) so I was thinking of getting one eventually. Before I do get one, I suppose my wife’s question made me think.. why or how is a hookaroon/picaroon better than a pulp hook for lifting 16” sections? My two thoughts real quick, the extra length and a less curved tip to drop rounds easier?
Do I even need one even if it’s only $25?
Thanks folks! :)
Welcome to the site.
Best info for this kind of stuff anywhere.
I have a Fiskars one and the reason I bought it is because of the 40% off sale they had on them.
I like my Fiskars pickaroon. The handle is synthetic so rain or snow won't negatively effect it.
It has a protective sheath and a lifetime warranty and like I said, it was only sale...lol.
I will admit that I was skeptical of it, as other members here said it was a bit too light weight, but I only use it for about 4-5 cords a year and it's a great, back-saving tool IMO.
I do have a large (60") Logrite cant hook and two sets of log tongs too so I've got the handling tools covered now.
IMG_20200509_195808692.jpg
 
I've posted these before, but I have several homemade ones. Tried a hookaroon from Grainger, (brand?) didn't work well..
1. Modified framing hammer for picking up small rounds to about 12 inches. Mostly use at the splitter. Striking face is a mini hatchet to break remaining fibers above the wedge. Claws sharpened in two directions. Handle with a flat spot on one side so I can tell orientation/rotation without looking.
2. Hookaroon made form an old axe. Works well, I just don't use it too much.
3. Long hookaroon I call a 'Harry Hook' because Turnkey invention. 7 feet long wooden closet rod (made one from conduit, but it was too heavy), conduit connector to spread out the stresses, and a 1/2 inch grade 8 bolt ground. Handle has flat on one side so I can orient it. This is for unloading the trailer and pull rounds to the rear, then lift onto the splitter. Don't have to climb in and out and hunch over under the topper. WAY better on my knees and back. Use it to retrieve buckets or boxes, all sorts of uses. Thank you Harry.
Great innovative thinking, I like those tools and the thought you put into the designs.

Sent from my SM-G930VL using Tapatalk
 
Welcome to the site.
Best info for this kind of stuff anywhere.
I have a Fiskars one and the reason I bought it is because of the 40% off sale they had on them.
I like my Fiskars pickaroon. The handle is synthetic so rain or snow won't negatively effect it.
It has a protective sheath and a lifetime warranty and like I said, it was only sale...lol.
I will admit that I was skeptical of it, as other members here said it was a bit too light weight, but I only use it for about 4-5 cords a year and it's a great, back-saving tool IMO.
I do have a large (60") Logrite cant hook and two sets of log tongs too so I've got the handling tools covered now.
View attachment 888284
I use the Fiskars when I'm straying out a ways as it is so much lighter to carry.
 
Can't say what is best as I only have one. I made it for a friend with back issues to use at the woodsplitter but it scared him so that he wouldn't take it. I thought the hatchet end would be handy for chopping off branches that the cutter left. I found out with use that it is also great for de-punking punky wood. I have to admit it is a little scary looking.

Reshaped carpenter's hatchet with a replaceable Log-rite tip.
IMG_5338.JPG
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Ron
 
I've posted these before, but I have several homemade ones. Tried a hookaroon from Grainger, (brand?) didn't work well..
1. Modified framing hammer for picking up small rounds to about 12 inches. Mostly use at the splitter. Striking face is a mini hatchet to break remaining fibers above the wedge. Claws sharpened in two directions. Handle with a flat spot on one side so I can tell orientation/rotation without looking.
2. Hookaroon made form an old axe. Works well, I just don't use it too much.
3. Long hookaroon I call a 'Harry Hook' because Turnkey invention. 7 feet long wooden closet rod (made one from conduit, but it was too heavy), conduit connector to spread out the stresses, and a 1/2 inch grade 8 bolt ground. Handle has flat on one side so I can orient it. This is for unloading the trailer and pull rounds to the rear, then lift onto the splitter. Don't have to climb in and out and hunch over under the topper. WAY better on my knees and back. Use it to retrieve buckets or boxes, all sorts of uses. Thank you Harry.

Edit: and a set of wonderful old railroad tie tongs. Top quality and backsaving.
I had wondered about modifying a framing hammer after watching some Larry Haun videos. I didn't think to sharpen the striking face though!
 
I had wondered about modifying a framing hammer after watching some Larry Haun videos. I didn't think to sharpen the striking face though!
It won’t chop down any trees but it does cut the remaining strands of stringy wood. I originally thought of welding a cutting edge onto the striking face and realized that would not be very feasible or reliable. This works great.
 
Can't say what is best as I only have one. I made it for a friend with back issues to use at the woodsplitter but it scared him so that he wouldn't take it. I thought the hatchet end would be handy for chopping off branches that the cutter left. I found out with use that it is also great for de-punking punky wood. I have to admit it is a little scary looking.

Reshaped carpenter's hatchet with a replaceable Log-rite tip.
View attachment 888331
View attachment 888334View attachment 888333

Ron
I absolutely love the design and will promptly copy it lol.
 
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