Cryogenically dipped metal helps to align the molecules in a more linear pattern as opposed to a random one. This helps with overall steel strength, wear resistance and Rockwell hardness scale attainability. The results are more notable in powdered metals. Although I think it's worth pointing out that planer blades on an industrial planner at the mill I work at are not cryogenically dipped, rather we just sharpen the blades more often. We plane approximately 1 million board feet of lumber per day and sharpen as needed. I believe the planer knives are made from D2.
Best tool for chipping dirty bark
- Thread starter lambs
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HOLY CRAP! This may not be the answer and would explain why local dealers have stopped carrying carbide chain. Honestly I would be more likely to invest in a reel of chain and the equipment to make your own loops, i.e. breaker spinner combo. Take 4 or 5 loops with you and just plan on sharpening when you get home. Hand sharpening with a file is fairly quick once you get used to it and is capable of producing very good results. Every five to ten sharpens, depending on your skill, take it to the grinder. The previous post from @ValleyFirewood stated the debarker is hard on the user, definitely something to consider. I might do some googling to see what other options are out there. Others have mentioned washing the logs down which actually is a viable solution.
This is probably the best answer.
I've never bucked on a logging crew, but I worked a couple of summers stumping limbing and bucking trees that had been dozer pushed (road construction). Try boring in where the wood is clean and slow down as you finish the cut, not cutting through the dirty bark. I never really perfected the technique, and had to sharpen a Lot. Good sharpening practice though.
Never used one, but sounds interesting.
Broadaxes, hewing hatchets, adzes, pulaskis, or a small mattock all might work for you. Maybe even just a sharp shovel. You could look at a flea market or yard sales/ auctions for a deal.
Council Tool (USA Made) makes short-handled 'miner's axes' in 3 1/2 or 4# models with 20 or 26" handles. Or you could just bob the handle on a std axe or 2 1/2# axe.
The estwing campers axe works well for me.
This is probably the best answer.
I've never bucked on a logging crew, but I worked a couple of summers stumping limbing and bucking trees that had been dozer pushed (road construction). Try boring in where the wood is clean and slow down as you finish the cut, not cutting through the dirty bark. I never really perfected the technique, and had to sharpen a Lot. Good sharpening practice though.
Yup. Use the chain to chop off the bark in a relatively clean spot. Then bore in, and push the power head down and rotate the bar. The far side is cutting with the top of the bar, flinging the dirt off. The near side is cutting with the bar, flinging the dirt off. When you cut the bottom of the log cut from the near side to te backside, and ideally don't cut the bark. It takes a little practice, but it works.
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Seems to work fine for wedge driving and dirty bark removal.
Leaf blower and a hatchet. Noodles work pretty good too.
Noodles are fun.
lambs
Stihl crazy after all these years
Wow that's expensive.
I will probably go for a smaller axe; the Husky looks like an option. We don't have ready access to water or that would be great.
I do take a number of chains to the site and sometimes go through 4 in a morning, grinding them at home.
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