Best way to open up oil ports on bar
- Thread starter egraham
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Big_Wood
westcoast dweller
are you still having issues with oiling on this saw? didn't you replace every part? lol i really don't see the need to enlarge the holes as they don't oil any worse. the oil just comes out of that hole with force rather then drooling out like one with a big hole. if you must though, i would use a foredom or dremel with a diamond bur or a carbide bur. that's me here working with what i got. you could also just drill it out with a drill press and a sharp bit. just don't push to hard and lube the bit otherwise you'll be sharpening it every 5 seconds lol
it should oil good stock, then, esp. that short. just my exp. w/newer huskys, value? app. $.02.
check barpad w/straight edge and flashlite. if that looks good, look at plate & bar. wrong bar plate maybe? bent bar? am assuming bar/groove/oil holes - clean.
Big_Wood
westcoast dweller
my only recommendation to you is to put your oiling obsession aside and go cut wood. you likely just have to oiler turned all the way up and it is gushing up out the rail there. were talking about a brand new saw now? if the bar pad, plate and bar surface is clean it seals up tight enough there that the thick oil would not stand a chance getting through that little slit. i've been running oregons for 15 years and they always work just fine. it sounds like it's not broke but you are trying to fix it until it is. lol drill the hole bigger is you must but it ain't gonna help you. i leave the hole stock even running 33" oregons.
+1, have 26"or, and 36"husky here.
lambs
Stihl crazy after all these years
My issue with the angled oiler ports on Stihl bars is how to clean them out. I drilled mine so the depth gauge tool tip would fit.
Pud
ArboristSite Operative
Use the pointy end of ya file that goes in the handle its a perfect fit
lambs
Stihl crazy after all these years
Good idea. Right now I am using an awl that came with a screwdriver set. But I am probably going to start taking a small compressed air tank with me to blow the bar clean.
Big_Wood
westcoast dweller
i just use the nail on my tape but firewood hacks probably don't carry a tape on them.
Sagetown
Farmer and a STIHL
With a drill tap several indentions into the bar from the area of oil output to the oil well on the bar, making the indentions a lil deeper at the oil well.
with a dremel tool open up the indentions into a channel to the Bar oil well.
with a dremel tool open up the indentions into a channel to the Bar oil well.
Jon1212
Riff Raff Fart Knocker from other Forum's.
Is the 24" bar new as well? If so, it may have factory paint in the oiler hole.
As Shane stated previously, a carbide or diamond burr will work wonders with just a minor touch up.
I bought a couple of Ching Chong 10pc sets of double cut burrs from eBay for $11 per set. They have done an admirable job in modifying bar stud slots, adjuster and oiler holes.
As Shane stated previously, a carbide or diamond burr will work wonders with just a minor touch up.
I bought a couple of Ching Chong 10pc sets of double cut burrs from eBay for $11 per set. They have done an admirable job in modifying bar stud slots, adjuster and oiler holes.
bigmoose
ArboristSite Operative
Countersink works good. Those bars arent that hard. They will work hard if dont keep them cool while drilling. I open all my oil holes. I guess i have and oil ocd as well
I don't know about the 372, but the 262 has a problem with certain Husky bars where the oil hole is completely below the chain drive tangs. This means that in fairly short time the bar groove fills up and no oil comes onto the bar. The solution is to drill the bar hole large enough to see the very bottom of the chain drive tang in the hole. That way, the chain is constantly clearing the debris from in front of the bar hole.
Ron660
Addicted to ArboristSite
I've noticed on an ES stihl 28" bar the bar oil hole is a lot smaller than a husky techlite 20" bar I have.
Little Al
Addicted to ArboristSite
Have you mounted the bar plate /bar & checked if with the chain tension ed the hole in the bar lines up with the oil grove in the case, also what stops oil bleeding right through the bar or is the oil hole single sided in the bar?, doe's the oiler function properly running the saw without the bar & chain? if yes the problem is either the bar or the mount position/set up, if the output is not up to scratch, then as you are probably aware you have some type of oiler or oil delivery problem.
