Biggest tree i fell so far.....

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Husqvarna has(or used to have) a credit program. You fill out the credit app and summit to husqvarna. The interest was really high, I want to say around 27%. Your husqvarna dealer should have the apps on hand.
 
Good effort. You have the right idea, just a bit of fine tuning of your skills required and a bigger saw.Great feeling when you drop a tree with no drama. Rep sent.
 
Thanks everyone for the replies. Went out there and finished up today and had to leave half the tree saw is way to small! I tryed my hardest but it was just way to hard on the saw and i was getting frustrated! I noodle alot of them and that little saw barely held on haha.

Do any dealers finance? My funds are a bit low to just go out and buy a $600 saw but i can make that in less then 2 weeks cutting wood for this bbq restaurant. I really want a husky but i will take a nice Stihl. Monday i was gonna shop around and see if the girlfriend would let us finance one. If i get a bigger saw i can make ALOT more money. I was thinking if i went with stihl maybe the ms362, or do i need a little bigger?


Nice job dropping the tree. Your hinges and cuts will get better with time as you concentrate on it. Keep at it.

Kid. You're waaay too young to start bieng saddled with debt.
Don't even start. Plenty of time for you to get into that little hell later in life when it means something...like a House.

Keep working that little saw until you get some sheckles saved up, then pull the trigger on a GOOD USED pro saw.

For GP work a good 60cc saw would do ya fine. 362, 361, 357XP, 359 Husky.
You can get into a good one for 3-400 bucks if you look around.

Stay safe!
Dingeryote
 
Nice job dropping the tree. Your hinges and cuts will get better with time as you concentrate on it. Keep at it.

Kid. You're waaay too young to start bieng saddled with debt.
Don't even start. Plenty of time for you to get into that little hell later in life when it means something...like a House.

Keep working that little saw until you get some sheckles saved up, then pull the trigger on a GOOD USED pro saw.

For GP work a good 60cc saw would do ya fine. 362, 361, 357XP, 359 Husky.
You can get into a good one for 3-400 bucks if you look around.

Stay safe!
Dingeryote
House is paid for luckily:greenchainsaw: Ya i understand well ill just keep at it with the little echo til i get enough. I just need to get the husky 55 together that will pull a 20" bar no problem and thats about what i need.
 
I agree with others on here stay away from debt if you can. anytype of financing option isnt worth it cause your gonna get screwed.....

Lots of nice and cheap used saws out there for sale. I bough my cherry 660 for 600 bucks my even nicer 046 years ago for 500 bucks. i just saw a decent looking 044 for 300 bucks.

I think your stump looks decent. a bigger saw will help. just take it nice and slow just when you think you are good at dropping trees something will go wrong trust me we have all been there.

I personally like a bigger saw like 70cc+ for decent size hardwoods.
 
Went out there and finished up today and had to leave half the tree saw is way to small! I tryed my hardest but it was just way to hard on the saw and i was getting frustrated!
I understand that you want a bigger saw but is there a reason your saw may not have been performing? No matter what size saw you have it will struggle if the chain is dull. Make sure it is properly sharpened and see if that will get you through in the short term.
 
I think you did fine. Are you sawing tip down just a tad? Take an extra breath, adjust if needed. Stump height looks good. If you take a little divot off the front edge of the bottom cut, the trunk will be pushed forward, further away from the stump, it will give you more space for the bounce back that trees with heavy crowns will do.
 
I've done worse on better days! I used to live down the road from you in Lampasas while in 1st Cav at Ft.Hood. I always like being able to look down into the Colorado River from the main drag. Kinda wished I could have stayed in Lampasas. JJuday
 
My back cut would have been a little more level with the notch, that is just how I cut though. Thanks for sharing, time to move on up to a Stihl.

i agree fully with the cut but honestly i do 90% of my felling of trees that size and sometimes larger with a husqvarna 340 and it does just fine with everything. I have a bigger saw just sitting there but personally i like smaller saws. Just keep the chain sharp and you should be about to bury that bar in oak and maple all day. i would say run your echo into the ground then if you not going to be cutting down much bigger trees than that then i would shoot for a 346xp or an ms260. they both pack a punch and will serve you well for what your doing.
 
I think you did fine. Are you sawing tip down just a tad? Take an extra breath, adjust if needed. Stump height looks good. If you take a little divot off the front edge of the bottom cut, the trunk will be pushed forward, further away from the stump, it will give you more space for the bounce back that trees with heavy crowns will do.


:agree2:

Some dadgum solid and sound advice/technique, for all of us to remember.

Especially if ya get caught leaving the stump late.;)

Stay safe!
Dingeryote
 
...take a little divot off the front edge of the bottom cut, the trunk will be pushed forward, further away from the stump...
Another good idea from AS to put in my bag of tricks. Thanks. I've got some trees with decent canopies to deal with next week.
 
One of my 30 year old stumps, it was burnt when I cut it and burnt again sometime later.

trip009.jpg



Sometimes just a little chip will do, depends on how you want the tree to fall whether the snipe is deeper, steeper or off center.
 
I understand that you want a bigger saw but is there a reason your saw may not have been performing? No matter what size saw you have it will struggle if the chain is dull. Make sure it is properly sharpened and see if that will get you through in the short term.

Noodling is what was killing the saw i need to make the wood smaller for the buyer and it would take forever. I picked out the makita 6401 when i get enough cash i think its perfect for my budget and my need. Thanks for all the advice!
 
Nice job for a saw that small...

Heres a few pictures from yesterday. I was very nervous about falling this tree since its the biggest one to date, not to mention my saw is very small for this size of a tree. I did the best i could my notch cut needs a little work i believe, but i think a bigger saw would help. I did drop it right where i aimed it!

I been working this little echo saw alot lately, i have a bbq restaurant that buys all the wood i can cut. Later down the road im going to get a bigger saw and hand the echo over to the gf to limb for me.

p_00068.jpg

p_00069.jpg

p_00072.jpg

p_00070.jpg

p_00071.jpg


Please if you have any advice let me know!

Heck of a rush isnt it....Did a good job with that small of saw...Just take your time,,and look things over really good...Just remember use your wedges when the hinge is startin to get thin...Always leave plenty of hinge..I learned that the hard way years ago..About gettin nervous...Only time I get on edge is fallin one down with a bunch of dead limbs above ya...That makes it tuff tryin to make a cut,,and keep worring if your gonna get smashed in the ground by a dead limb.I'll keep you on your toes..When it gets so bad I feel really uncomfortable with one that is really dead,,I pass anymore...I'll let mother nature handle it...
If you gonna keep the echo for limbing,,I'd find a good Stihl ms 440 used if thats the size your cutting in your pic...28 inch bar works great on mine and all I need even for big stuff...If you can find someone that can teach you to bore cut,,and forgive me maybe you have bore cut alot,,but that will help you alot in fallin down some really big stuff too and also on leaners...
I'm 48 years old and still learning...Each tree you will find out is so diffrent...Sometime you think this will be a piece of cake, and all a sudden you get into some deep crap...
Stay safe,,and enjoy....Thats so good you and your girlfriend spend times workin together like that.......
 
Heck of a rush isnt it....Did a good job with that small of saw...Just take your time,,and look things over really good...Just remember use your wedges when the hinge is startin to get thin...Always leave plenty of hinge..I learned that the hard way years ago..About gettin nervous...Only time I get on edge is fallin one down with a bunch of dead limbs above ya...That makes it tuff tryin to make a cut,,and keep worring if your gonna get smashed in the ground by a dead limb.I'll keep you on your toes..When it gets so bad I feel really uncomfortable with one that is really dead,,I pass anymore...I'll let mother nature handle it...
If you gonna keep the echo for limbing,,I'd find a good Stihl ms 440 used if thats the size your cutting in your pic...28 inch bar works great on mine and all I need even for big stuff...If you can find someone that can teach you to bore cut,,and forgive me maybe you have bore cut alot,,but that will help you alot in fallin down some really big stuff too and also on leaners...
I'm 48 years old and still learning...Each tree you will find out is so diffrent...Sometime you think this will be a piece of cake, and all a sudden you get into some deep crap...
Stay safe,,and enjoy....Thats so good you and your girlfriend spend times workin together like that.......
It is a rush i love it! I'd love to learn how to bore cut, i hate leaners they fall where they are leaning when i get after them haha. Im really glad my girlfriend comes out and helps it would be a pain loading the truck by myself. Once i get another saw im gonna turn her loose on the echo to do some small limbing jobs.

Btw whats a good price for a used 440? I've looked on ebay and they are going for $200-$300.
 
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Looking at the butt, you left plenty of holding wood. The mistake I see most often is cutting through the hinge...yours is just uneven. An uneven hinge will pull the tree to where the hinge is the widest, but if you cut through the hinge, you can lose control completely.

If any one of the "stumps" I made yesterday looked that good, I'd have been a happy man! I had been working on a downed oak "limb" for a neighbor (the thing was 2+ foot in diameter), and when i finished, I saw what knocked the limb down. A huge oak had come down in the woods...4 feet at the base, and no real reduction in diameter for 15 feet where the branching started. The biggest pain is that there is 6" of vines surrounding the trunk, and 4" in all the branches. It's a pain in the butt clearing that away just to see where you are going to cut. The vine branches also hold in a lot of dirt, so I'll have to sharpen a little more often.

First tree I have bucked that involved felling (more 2+ foot diameter branches). They were all leaners, and the only way I could reach them was by standing on the trunk and leaning over. I could only work from one side on them too, so I had to dress a lot of ugly wedges, and the end results were pretty ugly anyway.

Part of the tree was in the next yard over. The house is abandoned because the owner is in a nursing home, and the family is trying to sell it. I suppose I should have asked, but I burned 2 tanks cleaning out that part of the yard, and still have a little work to do. The brush pile on the edge of the woods is pretty big, but I think a prospective buyer would rather see that, then something they'd have to spend some money to take out safely.

I'm hoping to get back to it next weekend, and buck enough get the trunk stabilized. Then I get to try out the 42" bar on my 076, and break out the mill! Probably a lot of rot in the middle, but it's definitely worth looking into.

I think you did fine. Are you sawing tip down just a tad? Take an extra breath, adjust if needed. Stump height looks good. If you take a little divot off the front edge of the bottom cut, the trunk will be pushed forward, further away from the stump, it will give you more space for the bounce back that trees with heavy crowns will do.

Now that is a useful tip!
 
Looking at the butt, you left plenty of holding wood. The mistake I see most often is cutting through the hinge...yours is just uneven. An uneven hinge will pull the tree to where the hinge is the widest, but if you cut through the hinge, you can lose control completely.

If any one of the "stumps" I made yesterday looked that good, I'd have been a happy man! I had been working on a downed oak "limb" for a neighbor (the thing was 2+ foot in diameter), and when i finished, I saw what knocked the limb down. A huge oak had come down in the woods...4 feet at the base, and no real reduction in diameter for 15 feet where the branching started. The biggest pain is that there is 6" of vines surrounding the trunk, and 4" in all the branches. It's a pain in the butt clearing that away just to see where you are going to cut. The vine branches also hold in a lot of dirt, so I'll have to sharpen a little more often.

First tree I have bucked that involved felling (more 2+ foot diameter branches). They were all leaners, and the only way I could reach them was by standing on the trunk and leaning over. I could only work from one side on them too, so I had to dress a lot of ugly wedges, and the end results were pretty ugly anyway.

Part of the tree was in the next yard over. The house is abandoned because the owner is in a nursing home, and the family is trying to sell it. I suppose I should have asked, but I burned 2 tanks cleaning out that part of the yard, and still have a little work to do. The brush pile on the edge of the woods is pretty big, but I think a prospective buyer would rather see that, then something they'd have to spend some money to take out safely.

I'm hoping to get back to it next weekend, and buck enough get the trunk stabilized. Then I get to try out the 42" bar on my 076, and break out the mill! Probably a lot of rot in the middle, but it's definitely worth looking into.



Now that is a useful tip!
Ya i noticed that, a bigger saw would solve that problem for me anyways. Thanks for the advice.
 
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