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I don't agree with that assessment the thread was entered into into as a what was the best 40cc saw, we were then treated to what has been described by the phantom porter, he with his bullshite & lies & the other side attempting/failing to get any sense in the form of answers & no matter what was pointed out it was answered with meaning less drivel
Al , perhaps YOU should do a 462c build ... I go by and have always gone by RESULTS ! I shall let the machine(s) speak for themselves without getting caught up in any meaningless banter....Good day !
 
I must be blind, I can't see this 'tuned-pipe' in the vid, just a regular looking muf/can.

Welcome back, btw...
4593838D-3A0B-4AE9-84F1-5D3CE05B2E99.jpeg The final numbers will stay behind the shop walls ... I may show a few “money shots” of the cylinder after it has been “flow enhanced “ good day !
 
I still don't see it, a pipe outlet yes but nothing 'tuned' about it.
Looking forward to cylinder pics, lets see what you've got, for real for once...
Yah , anytime you alter the exhaust flow whether opening the stock outlet or by adding a pipe you are “tuning” the output of the engine ... this is simply physics 101 or to put in relative terms Hotsaws101 !!! A4EFB182-B3D5-4466-98F1-6D2E6E2AEBDB.gif
 
Yah , anytime you alter the exhaust flow whether opening the stock outlet or by adding a pipe you are “tuning” the output of the engine ... this is simply physics 101 or to put in relative terms Hotsaws101 !!! View attachment 701346

Garbage. You are just doctoring the exhaust then. Calling what you are doing as "tuned pipes" is a disgrace to anybody who knows how to build true exhaust. If you think that just hogging out an exhaust is tuned no wonder people say you are full of ****.
 

Looks to me that you should re-read your referenced thread as it explains pretty clearly what you have is anything but a tuned pipe...
Unless Jennings, Blair, Bell, Gordon, Morrison, etc missed the obvious and are all wrong...

I guess you could look at it that opening a bigger hole in the can causes the need for the saw to re-tune...
 
Garbage. You are just doctoring the exhaust then. Calling what you are doing as "tuned pipes" is a disgrace to anybody who knows how to build true exhaust. If you think that just hogging out an exhaust is tuned no wonder people say you are full of ****.
You have your “theories” and we have ours ... I think that’s wonderful !
 
Looks to me that you should re-read your referenced thread as it explains pretty clearly what you have is anything but a tuned pipe...
Unless Jennings, Blair, Bell, Gordon, Morrison, etc missed the obvious and are all wrong...

I guess you could look at it that opening a bigger hole in the can causes the need for the saw to re-tune...
Yah , think FLOW my friend ... more air thru engine more power - basic physics 101 ... the outlet on the stock can is too restrictive ... a 2.5” Long pipe protruding into the can makes for nice gains especially when the orchestra is playing in tune ! The pipe I have on is a bit large for the stock saw but when hot-woods ported should flow-nicely ... what’s nice is that you can turn down another pc of stock to a loose press-fit INSIDE the tube already affixed and monkey around with the outlet size (tube in pic is .875 until one gets the best of both worlds )relatively quickly and inexpensively without the need to butcher the can as the 462c has a removable cover held on by 4 t-27 bolts!
 
You have your “theories” and we have ours ... I think that’s wonderful !
Yeah, but yours have been proven incorrect.
The bigger the outlet, the higher the hp curve, but with a slight loss in torque.
Sliding a pipe into a muffler and calling it "tuned" is just a fallacy. The only way to have a tuned pipe on a saw is to have one with a reflective cone, which deals with length as much as diameter. And those lengths can't be attained inside a can muffler. You're better off adding deflectors around the perimeter until you see a loss.
 
You have your “theories” and we have ours ... I think that’s wonderful !

Theories? Go chop up a set of Rugland pipes and try to get the same results with your "flow" enhancements. True pipe builders don't just hack crap up and push it as the best there is. You have shown zero reason to believe you are anything other than a wannabe. No reasoning. No numbers. No pictures. No testing data. Nothing at all.
 
Yeah, but yours have been proven incorrect.
The bigger the outlet, the higher the hp curve, but with a slight loss in torque.
Sliding a pipe into a muffler and calling it "tuned" is just a fallacy. The only way to have a tuned pipe on a saw is to have one with a reflective cone, which deals with length as much as diameter. And those lengths can't be attained inside a can muffler. You're better off adding deflectors around the perimiter until you see a loss.
Incorrect ... much sharper minds than yours or mine have proven this to be the case ... again ... you have your theories and we have ours and that’s wonderful ... as far as raising the peak hp and “loosing torque” can you please explain the mathematics involved with your statement ? By simply adding the tube exhaust with the correct length,diameter and shape the engine will pull harder in the wood which is what I’m after ... you can butcher the can and add as many deflectors as you desire but what if you find the limit ? Now you must weld the can back up ... Nono sir ... I much prefer the method I’m using here as it’s very easy to machine another tube that will fit INSIDE the one presently affixed and change the diameter of the outlet quickly and inexpensively until you are satisfied with the results !
 
Theories? Go chop up a set of Rugland pipes and try to get the same results with your "flow" enhancements. True pipe builders don't just hack crap up and push it as the best there is. You have shown zero reason to believe you are anything other than a wannabe. No reasoning. No numbers. No pictures. No testing data. Nothing at all.
Yah , again you have your theories and we have ours - I never said it was “the best there is “ in no way shape or form ? I’m trying to increase the output of the Saw and so far have been successful so regardless of your position/opinion I consider it a success !
 
Just in case the OP reverts back to "quite only mode", here's an MS462 "Modified Combustion Chamber"

For the good of the thread

View attachment 701377
Yah , no need to cut the base on this saw imho ... the design of it lends to upper mid-range top end power which is what I’m after ... why increase the compression when it’s rpms that I’m after ? Huskil , You do understand that too high compression is an rpm killa don’t you ?
 
you can butcher the can and add as many deflectors as you desire but what if you find the limit ? Now you must weld the can back up ... Nono sir ... I much prefer the method I’m using here as it’s very easy to machine another tube that will fit INSIDE the one presently affixed and change the diameter of the outlet quickly and inexpensively until you are satisfied with the results !
That's the cost of having fun. Once you find the best all-around outlet size, you'll know the next time.
As far as reducing the size and length of that pipe, the only thing you'll satisfy are your preconceived notions. If you wanted to be able to go smaller, you should have started a little bigger
 
That's the cost of having fun. Once you find the best all-around outlet size, you'll know the next time.
As far as reducing the size and length of that pipe, the only thing you'll satisfy are your preconceived notions. If you wanted to be able to go smaller, you should have started a little bigger
Again Huskihl , this has been worked out years ago by much more enlightened individuals than either you or I who have proven it to work ... nothing wrong with using deflectors if that is the method you choose ... the goal here is flow my friend - more than one way to skin a rabbit ... if this fails to satisfy your “preconceived notions” then so be it ! Good day !
 
Yah , no need to cut the base on this saw imho ... the design of it lends to upper mid-range top end power which is what I’m after ... why increase the compression when it’s rpms that I’m after ? Huskil , You do understand that too high compression is an rpm killa don’t you ?
Not in the realm of a worksaw. You're talking in the 260-300 lb range before parasitic losses from what I've seen. I'm only shooting for 200-220.
 
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