Boot clamps

[Huskybill]

For the husky 350 series saws McMaster.com has the 1 3/4” x 5/16” band screw clamps.

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

You are talking about replacing the plastic clamp that usually by this time of their life is snapped or failing?
Just trim the plastic and use the metal clamp off of the 372XP- plenty of those kicking about.

 

[grizz55chev]

You are talking about replacing the plastic clamp that usually by this time of their life is snapped or failing?
Just trim the plastic and use the metal clamp off of the 372XP- plenty of those kicking about.

The trim job should be done with care, too much, the bulkhead is trash, too little, and it’ll leak.

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

The trim job should be done with care, too much, the bulkhead is trash, too little, and it’ll leak.

I use a flat file to take off the high spots, ridges and clamp clip catch- then the plastic is basically a tube with a split in it- attach the metal clamp.
But really- if attempting to do this "fix" you should have a rough idea of what you are doing....... if not- order the replacement metal band flange that Husqvarna themselves agreed was the better option!

 

[grizz55chev]

I use a flat file to take off the high spots, ridges and clamp clip catch- then the plastic is basically a tube with a split in it- attach the metal clamp.
But really- if attempting to do this "fix" you should have a rough idea of what you are doing....... if not- order the replacement metal band flange that Husqvarna themselves agreed was the better option!

Done it both ways, the new clamp is a bit of a challenge, at first. The 372 clamp with the new plastic bulkhead makes it a dead simple job.

 

[huskihl]

The trim job should be done with care, too much, the bulkhead is trash, too little, and it’ll leak.

I’ve cut just the tabs off, and cut it all off. If you cut it all off, you’ll have to use a different clamp because of the smaller diameter. I always smear some sealant inside these to lubricate them so they slide on tighter. Easier to feel when the impulse nipple is in tight that way

 

[nixon]

Try this . Never had one let lose doing this . Did the muffler brace ,just for grins .

 

[Huskybill]

I purchased all new dividers that came with that clip clamp. I’m replacing the cheap clip clamp with the screw stainless clamp. McMaster has the stainless clamps for $8/10.

I just took apart another 350 with a loose fitting plastic clamp. What’s up with Husqvarna with this piss poor design? Shame on them.

 

[chipper1]

Try this . Never had one let lose doing this . Did the muffler brace ,View attachment 804469View attachment 804470View attachment 804471just for grins .

That will keep it clipped, but it can still expand when the saw gets hot. The biggest cause of issue using the plastic is guys running dull chains. I've ran some many of these saws with plastic clamps and with the cat mufflers, the conclusion I've come to is all will be fine with a sharp chain, scored from excessive heat and from the plastic clamps only comes after a dull chain.
If reusing one id lube it up with a bit of sealant as Kevin said, but I'll just let you guys do that while I enjoy running them.

 

[Huskybill]

The new part from eBay comes with a stainless screw clamp.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Intake-Man...-345-350-353-346XP-503-86-63-01-/254284233586

 

[2broke2ride]

I am having trouble with this right now on a 346xp that I ported for my tree buddy. He understood it was my first attempt at porting and didnt care how it turned out. Anyway, the saw will run like an animal for a couple weeks, then develop an air leak. This is the third time. The last time around, I replaced the boot, used sealer around it, and used a screw type clamp like @Huskybill mentioned above. I just got it back yesterday and havent had a chance to look at it but I'm thinking its gonna be leaking from the boot again.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

 

[huskihl]

I am having trouble with this right now on a 346xp that I ported for my tree buddy. He understood it was my first attempt at porting and didnt care how it turned out. Anyway, the saw will run like an animal for a couple weeks, then develop an air leak. This is the third time. The last time around, I replaced the boot, used sealer around it, and used a screw type clamp like @Huskybill mentioned above. I just got it back yesterday and havent had a chance to look at it but I'm thinking its gonna be leaking from the boot again.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

The nipple inside the boot gets kinked off from not being aligned perfectly

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

The nipple inside the boot gets kinked off from not being aligned perfectly

Yep- have chased that problem around for many an hour before I twigged the plastic nipple was busted off inside the rubber.......

 

[Tor R]

I use 390 clamp.
Moumt the boot to the jug piece by piece.
1) Bellow
2) Partition wall
3) clamp
4) elbow.
5) impulse hose

not sure whitch one had most issue, plastic boot or metal clamp boot, I’ve seen my part where the bellow impulse channel was damaged when Husky mounted the boot at the factory.

346 serie & 357 serie had a pile rotten boot system in my humble opinion.

 

[Huskybill]

I use 390 clamp.
Moumt the boot to the jug piece by piece.
1) Bellow
2) Partition wall
3) clamp
4) elbow.
5) impulse hose

not sure whitch one had most issue, plastic boot or metal clamp boot, I’ve seen my part where the bellow impulse channel was damaged when Husky mounted the boot at the factory.

346 serie & 357 serie had a pile rotten boot system in my humble opinion.

This is why I’m putting everything new. do it once and do it right. These 350’s I have don’t seem to have many hours on them.

 

[L34]

Rebuilding one now.
Going to use a 066/660 clamp.

 

[Huskitoter]

Still no problem with the updated boot and snap clamp that came on my '07 350.

A screw clamp on the old boot seemed to work ok on a 357 build, but I just didn't like it and installed a new boot kit on it. The pita clamp is a pita but just works.