Boring Beetles in Oak Trees

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Tim

ArboristSite Lurker
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Thanks for the response to my original post on Wasps in my trees, John. Since that post I have learned that I have boring beetles in my two oak trees. I have observed an adult beetle and larvae as well. I've noticed several holes in the trunks.

Since indication is that there are some inside the tree, can they be treated or stopped at this point? My trees are still green at the moment, but the lower portions of the bark is flaking off, and portions of the heartwood are visible and don't look great to me. The trees are approximately 6-8" in diameter and 15' tall.

I've reviewed most every post on this sight, in addition to hunting all over the web. I would really appreciate hearing any experiences with this.
 
This is hard to say without looking at the plant. How much does the dieback encircle the tree? What does the root flair look like? What are the pests you have? Are they cambial or deadwood borers?

Borers are a sign of other stresses, A seminar at the ISA convention showed that this was the only group of pest that actualy increased with every stress.

There are some products of last resort that could be used by proffesionals only.
 
My pests appear to be metallic/flat-headed wood boring beetles. If I have my facts straight, those are "secondary invaders", which supports your thoughts on prior distress, John.

I have attached a picture (poor quality from camcorder), that shows the worst section of the tree. Hopefully they will assist in illustrating.

The trees were planted with the new house in July of '99. 3 or 4 months later my trees lost almost all of their leaves, although nothing else in the neighborhood had. Concerned, I trickle-fed water to them, which seemed to help. Last year they seemed to do O.K., although looking back at photos from move-in, the trees have never looked as full as they did then.
 
Here's another pic. Can only send one at a time it seems. This represents the worst part that I have seen so far.
 
Regardless of the cause, the damage looks severe enough to compromise the integrity of the tree. Even if the tree lives, the top will just keep getting heavier and the chances of it breaking near the base will increase. The weak side is away from the house, so chances are that IF it breaks it will fall torwards the house. Looks like a removal candidate to me.
 
I'd start over, that's alot of damage to such a young tree. It looks like it's planted too deep and too much mulch also , compounding it's problems.
 
That tree looks pretty bad. Alot of lumps up the whole stem , could be full of borers or cankers. Bad injury to the base , was it hit by a mower at one time. Only use 2 to 3 inches of mulch and keep it away from the tree trunk, and make about a 5 foot circle. I would take the tree out and start over also. John
 
I agree with the assement. With the age and the size of the woon, it could have hapened during planting or before.

several studies have shown that nursery techniques are causing the ball to be delivered with the plant too deep in most situations as much as 4-16 (!) inches too deep.

Here are the methods recomended by Zilmer of Midstate U. in WI Rapids and Huare od U. Minn.

1. feel the ball for woody roots protruding.
2. dig a hole the size of the ball to the depth found in step one.
3. carfully remove the soil down to the root
flair, unravel any encircling root and bury
them in trenches heading out form tyh ball.
4. If the woody roots look sound, remove any
adventiciouse roots from the trunk.
5. with a spade or fork, free up the soil around
the dug hole without disturbing the roots you
burried.
6. Water the ssoil in and dispose of any spoil
dirt.
7. Steak loosly.
 
I wish to thank everyone for their input. Definitely not the best news in the world, but it appears as though everyone agrees.

I have also had a "tree medic" look at it and quote injecting and deep root feeding. He was certified, but did not seem to offer a guarantee that this cost would keep them from heading the wrong direction. Should he have? I just don't know enough about this realm, and judging by prior posts that I've read, some in the business do not either.

I actually have more faith in what I've been told by the helpful people on this site, I guess because you are willing to take the time to do this for the benefit of others. For that I am grateful. Thanks again.
 
:angry: I'll fert and inject your tree for a few years too. Then ask you to pay for removal and replacing.

Another hack selling a product, not a service.

Or do i jump to conclusions.

ISA certified? or certified pesticied applicator?
 
This particular guy had a Texas TPCL license number. Would that indicate a licensed pesticide applicator then? And I imagine that's totally separate from being a Certified Arborist?

This may sound like a stupid question also, but might it be worth the cost to have a Certified Arborist look at the trees as well? I ask this due to the young age of the trees, and the unanimous response to start over. I greatly appreciate all of your valuable input and simply don't want to leave any stone unturned......but I don't want to be foolish either.

By the way, have I said Thanks to All for the responses? In case I haven't....Thanks again . :D I feel a bit more informed than before I noticed any of this crap.
 
and you have already had several certified arborist look at this tree and i think the conclusion was unanimous. Thanks for posting. And the material that JP Sanborn sent on planting should be remembered. I have had to remove alot of soil off the top of the planting ball before I ever planted the tree on several occasions just because at the nursery , soil was piled high above the root flare. which is at the point where the main support roots come out from the tree trunk.
 

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