Bought a bow bar....

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Diesel JD

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Well I bought a bow bar off of ebay. It has no guards but it will darn sure get some before it goes on the 390. Any tips for playing it safe beyond PPE and running all the guards? Also do you all think I should run chisel or semi chisel chain on a bow or does it matter? I know not for safety but for performance. I run sqaure chisel on teh straight abr most of the time...the remainder round chisel.. I will share pics when I get it set up like I like it,
J.D.
 
Diesel JD said:
Well I bought a bow bar off of ebay. It has no guards but it will darn sure get some before it goes on the 390. Any tips for playing it safe beyond PPE and running all the guards? Also do you all think I should run chisel or semi chisel chain on a bow or does it matter? I know not for safety but for performance. I run sqaure chisel on teh straight abr most of the time...the remainder round chisel.. I will share pics when I get it set up like I like it,
J.D.


You can purchase part's for bow bar's and or new bow bars from Chain Bar Repairing.

See URL: http://www.chainbar.com

Regards

Joseph
 
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I was planning on running round chisel since the bow is gonna be used for bucking on the ground w/ logs likely been down a while.

I mounted up my bow, but the chain catcher interferes w/ the chain due to the angle of the bow, even w/ the chain adjuster all the way forward...let me know how yours works. I didn't remove the catcher - figured I'd find out if thats the norm.

I also need to dress the rails of my bow as it's had a lot of use and has a pretty decent groove worn. Probably grind it on the drill press w/ sanding drum since I don't have a stationary belt/disc sander other than putting my belt sander in a vise (but then I'd need to make a jig to keep it square to the belt).

I'd like to hear from 458 if he's had to remove chain catchers from late model powerheads running bows - perhaps Curt Bailey would know.
 
Chaser I think the catcher does interfere. The Stihl manual says something about a chain catcher that was removed to allow for mounting a bow guide must be reinstalled when running a straight bar. See I have 2 of the older manuals from before teh Lawyers at Stihl told them no more bows! baileys also says some slight modification may be required...this is what they mean I think.
J.D.
 
Bow Bars seemed to fade out during the early 80's. I'll Assume it was due to injuries. What are the advantages to using a bow bar?I noticed you can still buy them from bailey's.
 
Chaincatcher will probably have to be removed on newer saws. I am sure it would interfere with the bow. The angle of the bow leaving the clutch area is quite severe. Just replace it when you remove the bow. Should you throw a chain with the bow (not really likely), the chain will get hung-up in the lower chain guard anyway. As far as the benefits of a bow, I just can't imagine life without one. I don't know how a person can buck-up wood all day with a bar. What a pain in the a$$. With the bow, you stand up over the saw and just keep cutting. The wood pinches to the open part of the bow and you never get hung up by being pinched. Cutting side-by-side with a guy with a bar, I can cut at least three times more wood in a given time. When I cut wood with friends, I feel sorry for those guys that have to buck-up wood with a bar. I have a large stack in no time and my back thanks me constantly.
 
458 what kind of chain do you run..I know with those older Homies your choices are probably limited. I was leaning toward teh round ground chisel instead of the sq. ground for the bow myself. What say you?
 
I'd also like to hear from 458 what size powerheads he's typically run on bows. I dunno what most of the poulans around here were - never saw one w/ any markings or labels still intact.
 
Either type is fine. Just keep it sharp and remember you will be cutting through the log and may, in fact, come in contact with the ground until you get used to using the bow. Dress the chain often, as while the cutting area of the chain is not all that large (usually 14 or 16"), the loop is long. As far as displacement, I have used bows on saws from 3.3 cubic inches to over 5 cubic inch displacement. You will find that a bow makes cutting so much faster and easier work that just get a saw that handles well for you. The weight of the saw is of no consequence as the saw just sits on the wood. Most of my cutting with a bow is now done with a Super Wiz 66 (gear driven with 16" bow sporting 1/2" chain). Saw weighs in excess of 30 lbs with full tank, full bar oil reserve, full gearbox oil, 16" bow and a loop of 1/2" pitch chain. I am 55 years young and run that saw all day when I cut. My Poulan that I have a bow on is the 3700 which is 3.7 cubic inches. It really cuts well. I have used bows on XL-12s, Super XL-12s and some Parner saws. I really like the bow on the Wiz. Not too much I can't do with that and because it is gear-driven, I can't stall it. In fact, I can rest my entire body weight on it and it just keeps cutting. I will probably get another Stihl and put a bow on it. Maybe a 440.
 
458..thanks for the info. I will keep that in mind and like I said..pics will be forthcoming when this is all set up,
J.D.
 
Once you get that bow saw up and running, you will never look back. You'll wonder what you were thinking all these years. In all seriousness, you will be amazed how fast you can cut a cord of wood. No bending over, no having to cut your stuck saw out, no placing wedges in the kerf, yada, yada, yada. You will just be glad you did it. Again, they can be dangerous, but in all honesty, I do not believe anymore so than any other bar. The key is watching the bumper spikes and don't let anything come in contact with the top part of the front of the bow. (If you do, it's coming back at you awfully fast). Always use the bottom chainguard also. Your thigh gets extremely close to those nasty little teeth. I have felled many trees using a bow, but I don't recommend that. When you are cutting pulp wood, speed is money and you just fell then buck up to 5 foot lengths. I just used the same saw. Again, I don't recommend that but I did it. For hardwood (saw timber or wood for shavings), I always used a bar for felling and limbed with a bar, but often bucked-up with a bow. I honestly would recommend a bow to anyone cutting firewood commercially. You would be so far ahead of the game. A bow is not for the inexperienced. They can and will bite you. I think the key to any work with a chainsaw is to not daydream. Keep your mind on your work, ALWAYS. Accidents happen when conditions exists. Lack of concentration is at the route of most accidents. I lost a friend in the logging industry. Haste makes waste. In this case, haste made a dead Claude Huffman. Lack of concentration and a tree that barber-chaired.
 
update..I have it

Well guys I finally got this wicked little device in hand. It is indeed an OEM Stihl product, and it looks like it will fit my MS390 real well without any mods except taking off the chain catcher. I'm pretty happy with it...I just need to locate a chain to fit it and the guards for it and then I will try it with much trepidation at first I am sure. I have an aquaintance that runs an old saw shop in the outlying areas and has agreed tolet me scavenge some old wore out bows for the spur and guards, if they will fit great, if not I guess I will be ordering them new from Baileys. Someone asked me what size bow it is...it is a 16" if I am measuring right, the widest part, just forward of the end of where teh chain guards would be? The aftermarket bows for Stihl and Husky Baileys sells say this size bow uses 89 drive links, I am not sure this applies to the OEM ones, but don't see why it would be different , if anyone knows for sure, let me know. I will get digital pics as soon as it's together. Thanks for your help everyone, esp. 458 Lott and Wagonwheeler.
J.D.
 
some pics or anything that would allow me to wrap my mind around the concept would be great. i've seen them in the bailey's catalog, but i just can't visualize how they would work
 

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