Brand New light weight bar and chain barely cannot turn chain by hand? What up with that.

[James Sawyer]

Just got my MS361 saw back together, after ¾ wrap handlebar upgrade, longer bar, and muffler mod. I haven’t run it or started yet. Normal I would have thought it was the chain and bar, but I had this saw torn down and pulled the clutch bell and the cover around the clutch. The clutch bell was stuck, and I had some problems getting it off to lube the bearing. Also, this 3/4 wrap handlebar kit has a new chip cover plus I up sized the chain to .063-gauge chain. Typical on this saw I run a .050 gauge. I went to check the chain tension and aligned the chain and could barely turn the chain before it just jammed wouldn’t turn at all. Yes, the brake is off and lol... I know how to put a chain & bar on! Pulled the chip guard off so I could see what was going on … yes, the chain is stuck with the chip guard off. Wonder if any of you have seen this problem. Brand new Light weight bar and matching chain.

 

[Squareground3691]

Just got my MS361 saw back together, after ¾ wrap handlebar upgrade, longer bar, and muffler mod. I haven’t run it or started yet. Normal I would have thought it was the chain and bar, but I had this saw torn down and pulled the clutch bell and the cover around the clutch. The clutch bell was stuck, and I had some problems getting it off to lube the bearing. Also, this 3/4 wrap handlebar kit has a new chip cover plus I up sized the chain to .063-gauge chain. Typical on this saw I run a .050 gauge. I went to check the chain tension and aligned the chain and could barely turn the chain before it just jammed wouldn’t turn at all. Yes, the brake is off and lol... I know how to put a chain & bar on! Pulled the chip guard off so I could see what was going on … yes, the chain is stuck with the chip guard off. Wonder if any of you have seen this problem. Brand new Light weight bar and matching chain.

Could have a couple tight rivets in the links possibly, soak chain and check for burrs on drivers, oil it up and then put chain back on and try it , the gauge is correct I’m assuming just checking all box’s.

 

[Squareground3691]

Just got my MS361 saw back together, after ¾ wrap handlebar upgrade, longer bar, and muffler mod. I haven’t run it or started yet. Normal I would have thought it was the chain and bar, but I had this saw torn down and pulled the clutch bell and the cover around the clutch. The clutch bell was stuck, and I had some problems getting it off to lube the bearing. Also, this 3/4 wrap handlebar kit has a new chip cover plus I up sized the chain to .063-gauge chain. Typical on this saw I run a .050 gauge. I went to check the chain tension and aligned the chain and could barely turn the chain before it just jammed wouldn’t turn at all. Yes, the brake is off and lol... I know how to put a chain & bar on! Pulled the chip guard off so I could see what was going on … yes, the chain is stuck with the chip guard off. Wonder if any of you have seen this problem. Brand new Light weight bar and matching chain.

No pinch marks on bar , even thoe new , check bar tip to ,

 

[rocketnorton]

is oil pump drive wire in notch on drum/"bell"?

 

[James Sawyer]

Could have a couple tight rivets in the links possibly, soak chain and check for burrs on drivers, oil it up and then put chain back on and try it , the gauge is correct I’m assuming just checking all box

I ran the chain around the bar nose, it turns freely. Also, the oil pump is in clutch bell no notch. The clutch spins freely without the chain.

 

[Squareground3691]

Does a used chain spin freely on new bar on saw?

 

[singinwoodwackr]

So, chain rides freely on the bar, off the saw?
clutch spins freely with cover off?
but, it all jams up with the “new” cover on and tightened?
check the little plastic chain guards on the inside of the cover. I bet they are the wrong ones…sitting too proud…or, that cover is simply not suited to that saw.

 

[buzz sawyer]

All good advice so far. I do not recommend a 28" bar on the 361 - unless you are in soft wood and take it slow - I see you're in Oregon. Was the saw modded? If you must, I recommend a skip chain.
Are you sure the oil pump wire doesn't ride in a notch on the bell(drum)? Thought mine did - will go check it. I also see you're using a new chain on an old rim - may be contributing to the binding.

 

[Seachaser]

Pretty obvious, but check to make sure chain break is not pushed forward.

 

[buzz sawyer]

My 361 does have a notch that drive the oil pump wire.

 

[huskihl]

The drum definitely has a notch for the oil pump gear tang. Might be misaligned and causing your issues. I’ve also had paint inside the bar rails make it difficult to spin the chain. Mount it a tad loose and give it a couple piss revs until the oil gets to it and see if it fixes it

 

[Silent Matt]

Does the chain move freely on the rim sprocket?

 

[thenne1713]

Does a used chain spin freely on new bar on saw?

or does new bar have paint buildup in the groove, or a ding/ bend in groove from being dropped?

 

[James Sawyer]

I put my original 25" bar and chain back on my saw and it spins fine. With tear down of this saw upgrade etc. and with new bar and chain I was leaning toward something other than the new bar and chain.

Ok... problem solved. The chain was sticking on heal of the bar on top side... the bottom side was fine. Guess it pays to have some small piece of chain to slide thru your bar. $180 for this lightweight bar I took the bar in to Willamette Saw Shop and showed Mike (I didn't buy the bar from Mike he didn't have one at the time, since there is a shortage. I bought the bar from another shop. Willamette is my go-to shop always helpful).

Mike said Stihl has manufacturing problem he's see something. During manufacturing of the oil passages in the bar they plug part of the machined holes with solder. Then finish off he solder in the rails. The finish on one side of my bar was missed. Mike finished off the solder with emery cloth.

I install the bar last night and it spins not perfect but well enough. Mike said to run the chain and it'll be fine if it not totally smooth. Please see the attached picture which shows the soldered, each side of the bar has two holes that are plugged so 4 solder joints.

I learn something … never seen this problem on any my bar purchase in the past.

28" bar on this saw with FC chain run fine with .050 gauge... maybe bit slow but not that I've noticed on valley Doug fir. Hardwood maybe... I just try and keep the chains sharp. Since I rotate out my chains I try to keep eye on the rim sprocket if I'm starting with a series of new chains. I have a 28' steel bar I use sometime I just upgraded to light weight .063 gauge since I'm run more .063 chain on larger saws. The .063 is bigger chain maybe it won't run as well on 28" My rim sprocket has some wear but is not down to the wear marks and drive pins seemed fine to me. I did look at this and I always keep spares, but I understand the concern with the rim sprocket especially the damage it can cause on new chains. I include the rim sprocket just to eliminate the trash with sprocket being the problem. When I stood the bar up and spun the chain thru the nose roller and inspected the both sides of the rails for pinch... this problem really confused me. I have a few saws like 11 but I like this ms361 the best for its weight works well for me. The saw pile picture is missing Mac 10-10, Husky 350, MS034, MS038, MS361, MS461. Oh guess I have old top handle homelite too.

 

[Captain Bruce]

Could have a couple tight rivets in the links possibly, soak chain and check for burrs on drivers, oil it up and then put chain back on and try it , the gauge is correct I’m assuming just checking all box’s.

I'm going to be watching your thread, for no other reason than, beyond trying to re-invent the wheel, Mike and his solder plugs aren't in the Gold Tech training? This is re-engineering genius if it really is real.......Go Mike!

 

[singinwoodwackr]

The drum definitely has a notch for the oil pump gear tang. Might be misaligned and causing your issues. I’ve also had paint inside the bar rails make it difficult to spin the chain. Mount it a tad loose and give it a couple piss revs until the oil gets to it and see if it fixes it

Those tangs get worn off or broken. Replacement part is cheap.

 

[singinwoodwackr]

I put my original 25" bar and chain back on my saw and it spins fine. With tear down of this saw upgrade etc. and with new bar and chain I was leaning toward something other than the new bar and chain.

Ok... problem solved. The chain was sticking on heal of the bar on top side... the bottom side was fine. Guess it pays to have some small piece of chain to slide thru your bar. $180 for this lightweight bar I took the bar in to Willamette Saw Shop and showed Mike (I didn't buy the bar from Mike he didn't have one at the time, since there is a shortage. I bought the bar from another shop. Willamette is my go-to shop always helpful).

Mike said Stihl has manufacturing problem he's see something. During manufacturing of the oil passages in the bar they plug part of the machined holes with solder. Then finish off he solder in the rails. The finish on one side of my bar was missed. Mike finished off the solder with emery cloth.

I install the bar last night and it spins not perfect but well enough. Mike said to run the chain and it'll be fine if it not totally smooth. Please see the attached picture which shows the soldered, each side of the bar has two holes that are plugged so 4 solder joints.

I learn something … never seen this problem on any my bar purchase in the past.

28" bar on this saw with FC chain run fine with .050 gauge... maybe bit slow but not that I've noticed on valley Doug fir. Hardwood maybe... I just try and keep the chains sharp. Since I rotate out my chains I try to keep eye on the rim sprocket if I'm starting with a series of new chains. I have a 28' steel bar I use sometime I just upgraded to light weight .063 gauge since I'm run more .063 chain on larger saws. The .063 is bigger chain maybe it won't run as well on 28" My rim sprocket has some wear but is not down to the wear marks and drive pins seemed fine to me. I did look at this and I always keep spares, but I understand the concern with the rim sprocket especially the damage it can cause on new chains. I include the rim sprocket just to eliminate the trash with sprocket being the problem. When I stood the bar up and spun the chain thru the nose roller and inspected the both sides of the rails for pinch... this problem really confused me. I have a few saws like 11 but I like this ms361 the best for its weight works well for me. The saw pile picture is missing Mac 10-10, Husky 350, MS034, MS038, MS361, MS461. Oh guess I have old top handle homelite too.

That saw is simply too small for a 28” bar and will eventually cause problems with the motor…skip or not. Full comp is nuts, imo.
24”, tops, and that cutting less than 24” logs.
and, why the .063 g at all? That makes absolutely no sense, sorry. You are just adding unnecessary weight and bulk.
right tool for the job…

 

[singinwoodwackr]

I'm going to be watching your thread, for no other reason than, beyond trying to re-invent the wheel, Mike and his solder plugs aren't in the Gold Tech training? This is re-engineering genius if it really is real.......Go Mike!

Yea, that’s a new one…

 

[James Sawyer]

The solder plugs are manufactured process when the bar are made, this is the 1st time I've ever heard of this or seen this problem. The chain driver were catching on the plugs jamming has anyone else ever heard of this before or noticed these?


You might be right on .063 on this saw pretty easy to find out, I've never ran .063 gauge on this saw, but I have ran 28" .050 gauge. Typically, I run 25" .050 which is standard here in the PNW. But I do understand .063 is a heavier chain.

Here why I put .063 on this saw and 28" bar. I have several larger saws that run .063 bars and my dad runs .063 gauge. I switched because we can share chains and we can share the expense on a roll of chain. We do run skip chain on longer bars sometimes depending on wood and the bar length. sometime running FC or Skip the speed isn't that noticeable at times. FC just runs smoother. I agree FC is very aggressive and you can't dog in and load the saw as much... just depends on what you're cutting. I find I just lift the saw out of the cut to keep the chain speed up or change the angle so it not cutting full bar length if needed. I not saying I know everything... maybe doesn't make sense to some regarding the .063 on 60cc saw?

In general, I like running the longer bars , I don't have bend over walking the log limbing. With hardwood on East Coast, I can see why these long bars don't make sense you work from the ground. But on Conifers I like working up on the log limbing, I don't like working from the side walking in the trash. Falling I know where the tip of my bar is on the face and my back cut, and I don't have to bark the tree as much. I don't have do as much clean up on face cuts when bar reaches all the way across. A 60cc pulls a 25" bar just fine is my opinion and it will pull a 28" FC with .050. Not disagreeing .063 doesn't have a higher weight and bigger cutters. it going to pulls bigger chips. Bottom line guess we'll see.

These lightweight bars are game changer for me, they balance out the saw better and it noticed in the weight. If the 28" doesn't work out on this MS361, I can trade this bar with my other saws that run 32". I agree if we're talking about MS362 I don't think it will pull a 28" and I have MS362 total nonsense running a 28" bar on that 59cc saw it doesn’t have the bottom end power that MS361 has.

Talking about weight a Full wrap bars also add weight and from most probably totally unnecessary. What weight I gained with the lightweight bar I lost with wrap. The MS361 when on the market ... a full wrap handlebar was not an option, Stihl never made a MS361R. But falling depending on ground and brush and tree density having the advantage the wrap add for safety it’s worth it to me... enough that I spent $180 for the upgrade. Is just not safe to face or fall using the top of the bar, I don't like working in the pinch. Granted this saw is not ported, my dad runs ported saws and boy they are nice if done right. I do have .038 that ported but ported saw run more fuel. The AV is better on these newer saws.

I chose these options I put on this MS361 for lot reasons. I own larger displacement saws with longer bars I can easily pick-up. For me I think these options I chose to put on this MS361 will work just fine, not saying I can't be wrong... totally possible, but I think it'll work out. If it doesn’t, I can always go back to .050 25" bar. And that 25" work great on MS361, it not the same as MS362. Hey…I think we all know some of the choices made on saws upgrades on the internet "should always be viewed with some questioning". Comments in that direction are always good so others do not believe everything you read on the internet. I just put $400 into this saw where I have other saws that would work just fine and cost me nothing. I definitely don’t have the experience as some have on this site… there is lot wisdom from other here you can take to the bank!

Thank you all I appreciate the comments, please continue …good or bad it all has value. One thing I learn from my raising “ We’re all in this boat together… we don’t help other…who going help us”! Every comment here on this post has value... it was all done to help others make better decision. Hope you all have blessed day!

 

[HerdBull99]

I'm going to be watching your thread, for no other reason than, beyond trying to re-invent the wheel, Mike and his solder plugs aren't in the Gold Tech training? This is re-engineering genius if it really is real.......Go Mike!

I Like how he said 28' Bar!!
I know he meant 28" Let me
Say it will take many ponies
To pull a 28' foot bar!!
By Herdbull99