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Barry Stumps

ArboristSite Member
Joined
Oct 1, 2006
Messages
76
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2
Location
Seymour Indiana
Hello, 1st post here. I have done stumps for years but am wanting to get in to tree removal not trim. I have bought my belt, wirecore flip line with a petzl microsender, petzl carabiner and spurs but thats it. I need to know what size rope to buy for a climbing line. I read you may come in contact with hornets and need a quick way down when spurs and flipline would not give. Please give detail of rope size,how many strand and make. Which assender and decender or both. My flip line will be my main use but want the vertical line for added safety. I do own the tree companion but i really didn't see much detail on what exactly i needed. Once again detail would be great. Thanks in advance.
 
Lanyard for back up tie in.

You'll want to consider a second lanyard in addition to the primary flipline in order to double tie-in if you cut on the way up. I do on the tall pines around here.

I've only been in the biz for 4 years now and learn something new every day.
 
train with a experienced climber/tree removal person before even picking up a saw and heading up. :cheers:
 
You may want to check around at local tech collages, I attended a basic tree maintenance course which tought the basics on climbing and working in trees (enough to get you started safely) and I am now enrolled in an advanced tree maintenance course this spring. I know you stated you only want to get into removals, but it will still be very helpful, It was for me.
 
I'm not trying to be mean here, but you have so much to learn you don't even know the right questions to ask. You need training, accept that. Handling a chain saw on the ground is dangerous enough let alone handling one in a tree.

DMc
 
Thanks for the tips. I am actually wanting to learn to climb 1st without the use of chainsaws. This is why i need the rope and assender information. I have been looking for a training class locally. I just want to get the supplies now and with the right training start out slowy.
 
Barry

Climbing is not something you learn in a day or week or month. I would get a 1/2" climbing line, and learn to tie all the knots in the Tree Climbers Companion. Then fiddle wih different hitches in the book and see which one you like best. Dont rely on ascenders to get into a tree. Learn how to "hip thrust" first and then maybe footlock...then strat messing with ascenders.

You should start with small pruning jobs to learn to climb on, then maybe some large limb removals, then some limb removals with some MINOR rigging involved, then some very basic removals, then MAYBE you will be ready to learn how to rig a decent sized removal. Then you can start doing climbing removals full time.

I am not trying to be harsh here. What you have asked us and told us is HUGE. It would be like asking an automotive mechaninc how to rebuild a Wankel Rotary engine in an RX-7 and modify it to fit into a GEO Metro. Learn how to check the fluids, change the oil, and do the brakes first.

Look into taking some Arbormaster Courses......the BEST money you can spend for learning.
 
Ah removals-how sweet. A few thoughts:
(note-some of what I say is to be applied to removals only.)
Barry, I wonder if you realize what you are getting into.
Forget the ascenders-you have the spikes, use them to get up the tree. If your in a position where you need to climb a rope (say suspended over a limb from a false crotch) footlock (after removing the spikes of course.) Forget about any "descender" too. What's wrong with a split tail and a blakes on your climbing line-very versatile.
You asked about ropes-every treeman I know has their own preference as to type and diameter-you have to find what you like and works for you. 120 feet is a common length around here although I know guys who do removals on 100 feet and I prefer 150 feet (rather have too much rope than not enough.) But speaking of ropes, if you do removals you're going to need rigging ropes, preferably more than one. Once again you need to find what you like. I tend to rig big so use 5/8" or 3/4" but I know guys who rope removals with 1/2". As to rigging ropes, in my opinion 150 feet is the bare minimum and 200 feet is my everyday length. Run a rope through a couple blocks, or as a speed line and it shortens up fast.
Who's going to be doing this roping, you or do you need a groundie?
A handsaw doesn't cut it on removals. At least two saws is handy-a small one to knock down the little stuff on the crown and a bigger one to work the stem.
You don't need to be a professional feller, but knowledge of at least the basics is essential in removals-sure the stem may only be 30 feet tall and you may have a rope in it, but you still need to know how to notch and backcut properly.
Brush and wood on removals can pile up quick! You'd be amazed how fast you can fill a chip truck on a big removal. How are you disposing of the brush and wood? It gets tiring cutting the wood up small and loading it onto the back of a pickup.
What about boots-have you stood on a pair of spikes for 10 hours straight?
Won't even touch on the little things that make life easier-blocks, false crotches, grcs, etc.
I'd advise you to work as a groundie for a while on a removal crew just to see what's really involved in laying a tree on the ground.

(note: the above opinions were just that-opinions. Not everyone will agree-take it with a grain of salt.)
 
The previous words are some really good advise. As for me, i have heard it from alot of people, start small, build your person skill set slowly, take your time and know your personal limits and dont be affraid to step away when the job is too big. Better to lose out on doing a job than lose a business by dropping a tree in the wrong place.
 
Welcome

Hi Barry Stumps,
Welcome to Arboristsite, All the advice above is a good start,good luck.
 
Hey Barry...

Beowulf's got a good point. Hook up with an outfit with some good climbers and learn to be a good groundie first. You can't be a good climber without knowing what it takes to be a good groundie, and the only way to know what it takes to be a good groundie is to do it for a good climber. Then start low and slow. All the fanciest equipment in the world won't make a good climber.

Oh yeah...welcome!
 
Climbing gear

I am also looking at my first climbing gear purchases. I have had some difficulty finding someone to learn from, but I know that I need to be taught, so I am looking for classes. Most of the classes that I have found for climbing ask that you bring your own gear if you have it. My question is if the adage of "you get what you pay for" is true with climbing gear as well. You can spend almost 4x's as much for a saddle than some others that are on the market for example. Are there some things I should steer away from, do I have to buy the most expensive equipment to get the best? I don't want to go cheap when my life is going to be at stake, and I don't want to have to turn around any re-buy something b/c I didn't get what I should have.

Thanks for any input.

JR
 
I am also looking at my first climbing gear purchases. I have had some difficulty finding someone to learn from, but I know that I need to be taught, so I am looking for classes. Most of the classes that I have found for climbing ask that you bring your own gear if you have it. My question is if the adage of "you get what you pay for" is true with climbing gear as well. You can spend almost 4x's as much for a saddle than some others that are on the market for example. Are there some things I should steer away from, do I have to buy the most expensive equipment to get the best? I don't want to go cheap when my life is going to be at stake, and I don't want to have to turn around any re-buy something b/c I didn't get what I should have.

Thanks for any input.

JR
wesspur has starter kits, or you can get a weaver belt to start use it for a couple years, go to some local competetions and see if you can try out different saddles, you can also volunteer to set up the event you will probally meet some guys willing to let you try their saddle. good luck
 
Wow, Thanks for all the fconstructive eedback. I will take all advise given. I will try to gets some hands on with some pro's. I should have said earlier that i have taken down many trees just not around houses. It just involved climbing about 20 feet up like a monkey with a 16 inch chainsaw and taken down all the low branches and cutting down towards the lean out of harms way with a 3/4 inch rope tied to my truck. I already have a chipper and most locals knows this so it might be hard to find competition living in a small town to show me how. I will practice low to the ground on my climbing skill and knot tying to learn the basics and keep asking questions on here along with finding a couple of simnars. You all have gave me some good ideas to start with. This site is great. Barry
 
rope

i agree with all the people telling you to get training you could consider working for asplundh or equivilant for a few years and getting paid to learn . classes will not teach you every thing people need serious training and practical experience ive been climbing twenty two years and can tell you that you need training supervised you dont learn the removal process by trial and error you may not live through it . i have never been seriously injured or any one under my supervision in my time aloft but i would be lying if i told you there was never a close call; my training and experience saved my life on more than one occas.
the problem i see is any one with a saw can cause my insurance to go up i allready struggle to pay expenses. as for rope amsteel is the strongest ive ever heard of thinking for bull rop
im using hi vee for climbline but i remember using
steel core manilla and even grass rope stay with a trusted name samson etc
but get proper training first and formost:bang:
 
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what Booboo wrote is worth laerning by heart. Removals...check "Falling a Big One", amazing story about knowledge, experience and guts of steel.
 

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