Breaking chains!

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You guys have given 7shawnT some excellent advice on how to solve the problem. I know he has learned a lot from this thread. You guys seemed soooo shocked about the pictures posted by 7shawnT. There is a huge part of the chain saw market segment that has the very same issues. I see it daily as I examine chains sent in for "warranty".
Keep up the good advice!!!

Wow! I didn't know Oregon warrantied chains like that! Where do we send them? :D:D:D
 
Looks like the rakers are files awfully far down. Make sure the crank isn't bent. Replace the bar sprocket and chain.

First thing I looked for and found, as well. Anytime I hear of chain chatter and (fill in the blank with some chain issue), I look at depth gauge setting.

Tough to tell which was the chicken and which was the egg, but I'd not argue the theory that bad filing led to chatter and undue stress on the cutter system, ultimatley taking out the sprocket. I don't see a lot of blueing to suggest oiler issues (and the innards of the saw appears adequately gunked up with goo), looks all hard-parts to me.

Yeah, replace the whole system.
 
You guys have given 7shawnT some excellent advice on how to solve the problem. I know he has learned a lot from this thread. You guys seemed soooo shocked about the pictures posted by 7shawnT. There is a huge part of the chain saw market segment that has the very same issues. I see it daily as I examine chains sent in for "warranty".
Keep up the good advice!!!

Yep, I agree!

I just got my manual today in the mail, and on pg 47 it says to "Replace the chain sprocket after using two Oilomatic chains" not sure what the difference is in "Oilomatic" and other chains, is it just a brand thing?

I had never heard of that, and I know I should not expect it to last for ever, so I will definitely be keeping an eye out for the wear, and also work more on proper chain sharpening.

Thanx, Shawn
 
oilomatic chain=stihl chain with stihls oil dispersal technology.

just means chain

that lets oil around the bar...
 
Yes, Thank You! I got it yesterday, but I'm sorry I hadn't responded to it, (I'm a baker, and I was busy with baking bread, I have a wood fired brick oven that I bake the artisan bread in, that is why I cut wood to keep feeding it!) I appreciated Yours, and everybody elses help.


Post a pic of your newly repaired say slicing a loaf of bread when you get a chance.


Good luck and happy slicing bread man! :rock:
 
Oil?

Use canola chain oil though. Dino oil don't taste so good! :jester:

I've heard one can use canola, but does it really lube as well? as I can get it for about $5 a gallon! I have Organic Extra Virgin Olive Oil but that's kinda pricey!

Shawn - Still learnin
 
I've heard one can use canola, but does it really lube as well? as I can get it for about $5 a gallon! I have Organic Extra Virgin Olive Oil but that's kinda pricey!

Shawn - Still learnin

It's been discussed quite a bit here, and I'm convinced by other's accounts, that it is THE thing to use, as long as the temperatures are above 5 or 10 degrees F. (begins to congeal below that, but placed in a warm saw, it goes back to liquid)

If it's anything like bio-diesel (and it is, since bio is made from veggie oil) I think it has higher lubricantcy (sp?) than regular petrol based oils. Ever hear a diesel switched from regular to bio? Runs a lot quieter and smoother.

Canola is what I will be running as soon as the last of my dino-oil is gone.
 
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Gonna use it!!

As soon as I posted my last post, I thought "why not search it out myself!" So I searched this forum, and read for the last hour! (there is more to read, but I'm convinced!)

I'm gonna get me some veggie oil, and start out the new bar, chain, and sprocket on veggie!

Shawn
 
As soon as I posted my last post, I thought "why not search it out myself!" So I searched this forum, and read for the last hour! (there is more to read, but I'm convinced!)

I'm gonna get me some veggie oil, and start out the new bar, chain, and sprocket on veggie!

Shawn

I use canola oil and commerical bio's almost exclusively these days, but I recommend you start with regular dino oil at first.

I recommend you get a baseline of experience with chainsaws, normal bar and chain temps and oil flow and wear and such. Once you get familiar with sharpening, and get this background experience and knowledge you are in a better position to knowledgably try bio bar oil. I am arguing that I think that in the long run, it best you have something to compare to to really understand the issues.

I don't know about slicing bread, but here's some old pics of canola and a sharp chain and a slightly rotten vegetable.

http://www.billluce.com/pumkinjpgs/pumkinjpgs/7868.jpg
http://www.billluce.com/pumkinjpgs/pumkinjpgs/7880.jpg
 
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Sorry but this thread seems to reek of BS to me...:dizzy:

The sprocket is worn so friggin' bad you should not run the saw again with it on there... period.

All those chains are garbage... toss them out. Don't try to salvage any of them. Go spend the cash on new chains. Also a new sprocket... rim or spur... don't matter, just go get a new one.

Your sharpening is not all that good either. Seriously... not tryin' to be an ass... but have someone else sharpen chains for you (not the ones you posted pictures of either). Then learn the right way. Your file angles are way steeper than they should be. There is a lot of saw "dust" on your saw. A properly filed chain does not make dust... it makes chips. So you either are not filing properly, or forcin' the dull chain to cut. Also causes heat.

Your bar is probably shot too... have it checked or buy a new one. Make sure your oiler is working properly. Runnin' with little or no oil casues heat and premature wear on parts.

Good luck...

Gary
I just looked at this post again I did'nt see the picks of the chain the first time I made a reply but you are totally right I would replace the whole set up sprocket bar and chain.
 
As soon as I posted my last post, I thought "why not search it out myself!" So I searched this forum, and read for the last hour! (there is more to read, but I'm convinced!)

I'm gonna get me some veggie oil, and start out the new bar, chain, and sprocket on veggie!

Shawn

start with dino oil. the only real problem with veggie oil is it going rancid/turning to resin after it sits. if you're sawing every day, it's not a problem because you'll always have fresh oil in the saw. if not, well........
 
If you are in bear country then veggie oil may attract an audience that you don't want. Some harvester operators told a story of coming to work in the morning only to find a bear licking the harvester because of the veggie oil.
 
If you are in bear country then veggie oil may attract an audience that you don't want. Some harvester operators told a story of coming to work in the morning only to find a bear licking the harvester because of the veggie oil.
Bears also love the smell of dynamite! the nitro releases a smell that bears just love!
 
cuttin

start with dino oil. the only real problem with veggie oil is it going rancid/turning to resin after it sits. if you're sawing every day, it's not a problem because you'll always have fresh oil in the saw. if not, well........

I usually go out and cut 2 - 3 times per week in the summer.

I'm still a little confused on the "rancid" issue, go check and see when you bought that jug of oil in your cupboard, hows it look, how is that any different than sitting in your saw? Just my thought! I've been wrong before, but I always think of things, and I am not afraid to ask questions.

Shawn
 
I usually go out and cut 2 - 3 times per week in the summer.

I'm still a little confused on the "rancid" issue, go check and see when you bought that jug of oil in your cupboard, hows it look, how is that any different than sitting in your saw? Just my thought! I've been wrong before, but I always think of things, and I am not afraid to ask questions.

Shawn

well, contrary to what your first grade teacher told you, there rally are stupid questions. but this isn't on of them.... :biggrinbounce2:

rancid was the wrong word - too extreme for the decomposition process i guess. but veggie oil doesn't have preservatives and similar in it. soooo, it starts to decompose - quicker than sitting in the cupboard because of the heat (saw, outside, etc...) and go "off". How this affect the lubrocity of the oil, I dunno. But I don't want it gelling in the tank.

Again, if you're running it though the saw on a regular basis, it seems to have no downside.
 
I usually go out and cut 2 - 3 times per week in the summer.

I'm still a little confused on the "rancid" issue, go check and see when you bought that jug of oil in your cupboard, hows it look, how is that any different than sitting in your saw? Just my thought! I've been wrong before, but I always think of things, and I am not afraid to ask questions.

Shawn
I agree with you the same stuff I use in my saw, sit's in my cupboard. Canola is the only oil to use imo as it does not turn to jelly when it gets cold. But I do find it wants to oxidize if left to air more than reg bar oil but if you use your saw more than once a month I can see no problem with it. I won't be cutting anymore fire wood till September as I don't like bug bites! So I cleaned out both my oil and gas tanks in all but one saw. I always leave one for pruning and cutting at home.
 
Brown Truck Showed Up!

Well I got my parts, they all seem to be in good order now!

Thanks All!

Shawn


Shiny New!
Img_7736.jpg



Canola Oiler Working!
Img_7738.jpg


Ready To Start Cutting!
Img_7739.jpg
 
Bet she'll cut like a dream now. (as long as that's the right pitch sprocket/chain/bar combo)

The real test is if you can make croutons with it! :hmm3grin2orange:
 

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