breaking-in 880 before milling?

[ZachAK]

It sounds like most people don't bother breaking in a saw on the Chainsaw Forum end of things, but I'm curious what those more experienced than me think for milling...

A friend has a new 880 he lent me because he only cuts the occasional big tree. He wanted his saw broken in and I'll cut some big firewood and I have some milling to do.

He insists on sticking with 50:1, when I've always run 40:1 in my 660 for milling. Beyond that, I probably won't mill or cut with anything more than a 36" bar for a while.

Thanks in advance for your thoughts. I'd like to return my buddy's saw in primo shape!

 

[Ferguson system]

Take it slow the first 10-15 hours of operation. Give it a good workout in varrying conditions, limbing and falling.
This is what the manual for a Jred 2172 says about run in: Running the saw on max rpm the first 10 hours should be avoided.
Make sure you clean the saw often, especially during the first 10 hours. Turn up the oil pump, and give it a bit more fuel (until it 4 strokes). Bolts and nuts should be checked and tigthened after the first 10 hours. I recommend that you use Aspen 2 stroke fuel or Stihl moto-mix.

 

[CR888]

Manuals do get influenced by lawyers more than techs/mechanics but the above info is pretty good. Gas pressure is what will seat the rings and you want plenty of it. l would do the opposite of 'take it easy' and after a brief warm up get the saw 'under load' in wood and only use full throttle. Taking it easy is the exact opposite of what you need to do to achieve a good break in. Remember you only get one go at this so get it right!! I would not even start the saw untill your ready to cut wood.

 

[BobL]

I ran about 5 tanks of mix through the saw while cross cutting on the 880 and then went for it on a 30" hardwood log. It's not like a milling saw in a decent sized log can do max RPM anyway.

 

[Nato]

I have bought 2 new 880s for milling. The first, I broke in cutting up a maple for firewood. (Short high rev cuts) I also mixed fuel with a little bit extra oil. (Stihl premium). After running 4 tanks through the saw, I put it to milling. My other 880 I mixed 50:1(stihl premium), started it, let it warm up a little (130 degrees ), then straight to milling a 48 inch red oak. Both carbs were set from dealer. My conclusion, ( after about 3 years of "medium" use) well if I'm lucky enough to afford another 880 in my lifetime, I'm going to spend my time milling with it, not breaking it in. Have fun, n8.

 

[ZachAK]

My conclusion, ( after about 3 years of "medium" use) well if I'm lucky enough to afford another 880 in my lifetime, I'm going to spend my time milling with it, not breaking it in. Have fun, n8.

Thanks everyone! And thanks, N8 for buying two saws and trying both ways. You and a few others around here are real chainsaw scientists! Thanks. It's funny: I bought a 360 about ten years ago, and a 361 a year after the 360. Both run about the same, but the 360 has proven itself as a super workhorse. Fairly different engine design to my not-so-educated eyes. The 360 is still my main cutting saw.

I'm a big fan of Stihl premium, too. My wife says I don't smell as bad running it, as the old days of smelling like an oil refinery with the old stuff. I'm also a fan of the big bucks Stihl bar oil. Really makes a difference when cutting gritty wood. Boy does the 880 pump oil out set on high. It's not scientific, but it looks like about twice that of the 660.

I'm also thinking the advice on warming up the saw a little is great.

I'll take the saw in at ten hours for the free dealer tune up.

Cheers, everyone. You make this forum worth spending time online.