I got an entire load of some small stuff, and often cut two at a time with 18"bar. Sometimes three at a time.
You want a good front lip and a clean out space behind it for chips to fall thru. If they build up the lip is nonfunctional.
When you touch a chain to it the wood may jump and come at you. So always start your cut tip high, power head low, to pull into the front edge, then rotate to level.
When rounds are thick enough and kerf binding occurs, a plastic wedge can replaced in the kerf, and with caution, the cut completed.
If your cutting slabs binding may be an issue.
You may want to design a hinged saw mount like the Wallenstien processor, and move the wood, advancing it with a pulp hook or something.
Just a thought.
If the cants are flat side down, kerf binding may not factor in.
Just some thoughts.
Just have to build one and work through modifications that work for you.
I am very surprised mine has held up. I've dropped some logs on it a few times. I can stack a lot on the eight foot one, 1/3 cord maybe, 1/4 is easier and safer as not as high. The other is longer and unnecessarily so.
Logs get tangled up more loading it.
You have kids around, so be careful. Logs can roll off the front. Your still working a log pile. They have hit my SuperSplit dozens of times when loading it. Mostly the tires near the engine. When advancing logs it can sometimes be dangerous. Anything questionable I add some blocks up against the front lip for added height, and work the pile from the side. I use two peaveys, one on each deck. Sometimes I'll wedge one as a stop, and work the other end of the log, mostly bigger logs.
On my set up, there is no place to move out of the way, working between the deck and splitter. I never try and stop a questionable log with brute force.
