Buddy cut up three pine logs on his wood miser mill...

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He's not lying. :cool: Your going to wind up with a lot of warped lumber. jmho OT
Tell me why the warp would be worse with the strong side against gravity versus the weak side (flat) side. The 2x6 is much stronger tall-wise than flat-wise. How will it warp any more?
 
Tell me why the warp would be worse with the strong side against gravity versus the weak side (flat) side. The 2x6 is much stronger tall-wise than flat-wise. How will it warp any more?
To keep things flat the weight of the stack needs to be acting across the weakest direction (red arrow) - there's limited benefit in having the stack weight acting across the strongest direction (blue arrow)
stack2.jpg
 
Tell me why the warp would be worse with the strong side against gravity versus the weak side (flat) side. The 2x6 is much stronger tall-wise than flat-wise. How will it warp any more?
Most all trees when milled are stressed. It depends on the wood, lean of the tree, if any, when cut down. Milled lumber can do five things. One or more and possibly all five. Here is an excellent article on storing lumber.
https://www.intouch-quality.com/blog/wood-warping-and-how-to-prevent-itHere is another on stacking and blocking
https://www.norwoodsawmills.com/articles/stickers-and-blocking-101:-how-to-stack-and-dry-lumberJust trying to help. :cool: OT

1648554738139.png
 
Thanks for the diagram Oletrapper
Using Oletrappers diagram, the most common warp I usually see are Bow, Twist and Cup which are defects on the wider side of the lumber and are best controlled by stacking lumber widest side down. A lot of pressure is needed to control cuppinh
Kink and crook (defects of the shortest side) are less common even when stacking lumber wide side down.
 
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