Building my own fireproof wallboard for use behind a boxwood heater

[Pocahontas]

Hello. New to this site. Seems to have a lot of good info here. I have a few questions about fireproof wallboard. Feel free to make suggestions or correct me.

We live in the country. I know of no codes, permits or rules we have to abide by out here. However, I do have homeowners insurance and want to install this heater in a manner that doesn't go against their rules, so I guess I need to call the insurance company and let them know we are going to install this wood heater?

Old boxwood heater that belonged to my parents. Probably from th 70's. It is in great shape. It is a King 628A with a picture of a crown that says King across it on the front door.

House is a wood frame house with painted sheetrock interiors. The house sits on a slab. The area where the heater will go has vinyl floor covering. (See info about cement blocks below.)

Wall where the heater will be installed: 46" wide (including door trim on either side) by 8' tall. There is nothing on either side of the heater space for over 5 feet.

Options: (1) Purchase 2 pre-made wallboards 42"wide x 32" tall at a cost of about $115.00. These are the faux brick sheetmetal covered wallboards. They will only reach 64" tall. I am using insulated pipe from the stove through the roof. Would I still need the wallboard to reach all the way to the ceiling?

(2) Purchase Duraroc or hardiboard cement board install it with spacers against the wall and tile over it.

Questions:

Do you have an approximate cost of the DIY wallboard?

Is the cement board strong enough to stand on it's own (screwed to the wall with the spacers) or will it need plywood or something behind it?

Is there a certain kind of adhesive or thin set you would use to set the tile that would withstand the heat better?

What kind of tile is best to put behind a wood heater?

How close can you put a cast iron boxwood heater to the fireproof wall boards?

How much space do you need between the wallboard and the wall?

Where can you purchase these spacers? I've seen metal and ceramic spacers mentioned. Which is best?

I have purchased 8" x 16" x 4" (actual dimensions are 7 1/2" x 16" x 3 3/4") cement blocks to go under the heater. I was planning on layin them over the top of the vinyl flooring. I have enough to go 3 layers high. (30 of them) Is this a good base for this heater?

I know I've bombarded you with info and questions, but any you could share with me would be greatly appreciated. Thanks a bunch!

 

[Pocahontas]

Bump

 

[Mac88]

The VERY first thing I would suggest is check with your insurance agent. We used to heat with a old cook stove. When our
insurance company found out, we had to replace it with an airtight. Make sure they are happy with yours before you spend
any money.

 

[Pocahontas]

Will do. I'll call them in a minute. Thanks.

 

[ShaneLogs]

Sounds like you got a project ahead of you. Good luck on it

 

[Pocahontas]

Insurance guy (Germania Ins.) said no problem as long as it is placed the required inches away from combustible(s) walls, etc., and/or from a fireproof wallboard. Have to use insulated pipe, etc. of course, which is all going to be done. I even asked him how much my insurance costs would increase and he said none. He is also installing a wood heater in his home for this winter.

I was a Daddy's girl so I've been exposed to a lot of outdoor and indoor type projects. I think this type of thing is a lot more interesting than washing dishes any day. :msp_smile: DH is busy with his own pojects and I had rather do my own (as far as I can that is.) Just want to make sure I don't spend a lot of money building something that isn't going to work properly. I believe the tile would look a lot better than that faux brick tin covered board, but not sure which kind would or wouldn't work beind a hot stove and what is the best thin set (Is that the right term?) to use.

It may be so cost prohibitive that I just use the pre-fab wallboard, but thought I would ask you guys first.

Thanks again.

 

[Pocahontas]

View attachment 248121 This is the boxwood heater I am installing and the wall behind it, where it will be installed. I don't have the legs on the heater yet.

View attachment 248123 Another view. Please disregard the 14 year old Rottweiler who obviously thinks she is getting warm. :msp_smile:

 

[Pocahontas]

I don't see the pictures. Must have done something wrong. ?

 

[rmount]

Sounds like a good little project. It has been a while since I did a similar project and there may be newer and better options available. But, if it were me; I would cut away the vinyl and lay cement board on the floor with one layer of your blocks on top, either mortared in place or edged so they don't shift and sand brushed into the cracks (you don't want embers falling between the cracks - don't ask how I know this!) - or just tile the cement board with the same tile as you are using for the wall board. Floor pad should extend 18" in front and 8" to side of stove. For the wall board i have used spacers made from 1/2" copper pipe cut to 1" lengths. Make sure you start the wall board about 3" above the floor to allow air circulation all around it. The concrete board should be strong enough on its own, depending on the spacing of your fasteners. Standard thin set should work and I have used ceramic tiles with no problems. I think the stove should be 18" from the wall board. If you search on-line you may be able to find an original manual that gives required clearances for your stove. The wall board should reduce the rear clearance by 50%. Make sure you post a pic of your finished installation.

 

[rmount]

View attachment 248121 This is the boxwood heater I am installing and the wall behind it, where it will be installed. I don't have the legs on the heater yet.

View attachment 248123 Another view. Please disregard the 14 year old Rottweiler who obviously thinks she is getting warm. :msp_smile:

 

[rmount]

I don't see the pictures. Must have done something wrong. ?

Do what you did, but instead of submitting click preview. Then right click an image name and open in a new window, copy the address of the new window, go back to your compose window and click insert image (tree in a picture frame), choose insert from URL and paste the address of your image, uncheck "retrieve remote file and reference local" - then repeat for your next image, then submit. I'm not sure why it is so complicated, but it is.

 

[Mac88]

Insurance guy (Germania Ins.) said no problem as long as it is placed the required inches away from combustible(s) walls, etc., and/or from a fireproof wallboard. Have to use insulated pipe, etc. of course, which is all going to be done. I even asked him how much my insurance costs would increase and he said none. He is also installing a wood heater in his home for this winter.

It may be so cost prohibitive that I just use the pre-fab wallboard, but thought I would ask you guys first.

Thanks again.

Good deal on the insurance approval.

Here's what we have. Stove sits on a 2x6 pad, 3/4" plywood floor, standard ceramic floor tile (and thinset).
The wall covering is the same tile, thinset on 5/8 gypsum, and is stood off the original wall 1-1/2" (2x4).
It has ventilation holes on either side, and at the top to allow residual heat to escape. The stove stands
about 18" off the wall. Maybe this will give you some ideas.

 

[Pocahontas]

Good info and thanks for helping me understand the picture posting process. It'll take a couple times but maybe I'll get it down. Really like your stove installation with the tile. That looks nice.

 

[Pocahontas]

Also have a question about stove black. See that boxwood stove up above? It could use a little polishing up. Does the stove black really work? Will it make it black and shiney again?


And one more.... what kind of a wood box do you have in the house or do you even keep some wood in the house for stoking up the fire?

 

[redheadwoodshed]

Hello and welcome to AS.

Tile will work behind the heater just fine with the cement backer boards.You can lay one of those brown woodstove pads under your heater, it will protect just fine.
I used one of those same heaters for years without insulated pipe (had never even heard of it then) about 18" from a sheetrock wall witha heater pad under it and never a problem.Those little babies eat a lot of wood, though, for the heat you get out of it.I always loved to hear it sucking in the air when you get it really stoked.Sounded like a train.

You can use stove black, or just use barbq paint, or just dampen a rag with vegatable oil and rub it on when you got a fire going.They all work pretty fair.I have a plywood crate a welding machine came in for a woodbox, and I like to use some rich lighter pine to get it going good, then put on any dry seasoned hardwood, my favorite being hickory.

 

[rmount]

Stove black or veg oil work well BUT it won't look a bright and shiny as Mac88's stove pictured above, I suspect that's been painted with a high heat enamel. Here's my indoor woodbox, lives in the front hall just around the corner from the stove.

View attachment 248155

 

[Mac88]

Good info and thanks for helping me understand the picture posting process. It'll take a couple times but maybe I'll get it down. Really like your stove installation with the tile. That looks nice.

Also have a question about stove black. See that boxwood stove up above? It could use a little polishing up. Does the stove black really work? Will it make it black and shiney again?


And one more.... what kind of a wood box do you have in the house or do you even keep some wood in the house for stoking up the fire?

We have a rack in the garage. Wood from the shed goes there to warm up. We have one of those shiny metal shelving units
in the kitchen. We keep the bottom shelf full of wood, and also have a kindling box by the stove. Stove is in the kitchen.

I can't help you with the stove black. Ours is enameled.

Good luck with your project.

 

[Fred Wright]

Dual wall stovepipe will give you a bit more leeway with clearance to combustibles. Also it keeps the exhaust hotter which means less creosote buildup.

I'd post a photo of our Durock board install... but it looks so poor I'd be embarassed. The SheWolf has been on me about tiling it. It's on the project list. I've got a feeling that, one day we're gonna be in Lowes for something and she's gonna say "Let's get the tile for that heat shield."

A quick and easy hearth job is just a trip to the hardware or home improvement store away. Stove boards are available in several design and common size configurations. Lay it on the floor and set your stove on it. Keep clearance in mind, you'll need a board or hearth that extends outward at least 18" around that boxwood stove.

 

[pdqdl]

That looks exactly like a wood stove I used to have in the basement. In my opinion, you are planning a nice project around a cold-burning, firewood munching waste of time. Those old cast iron stoves fit together without much hardware, but they leak air like crazy and they send most of the heat up the flue.

If you just like the fire for an occasional pleasant fire, and you like the antique appearance otherwise, go with that stove. On the other hand, if you are planning to use it very much for heating, and you don't mind buying or making a LOT of firewood, you should consider purchasing a much more efficient stove.