Bur Oak with Included Bark Advice.....

[treeseer]

good news about the sideflash to the truck--that bodes well for the bole. but what about the top of the tree?

I would like to begin by thanking everyone for there input and comments. The overall consensus is much the same as what I had planned on doing.

Did you plan on doing an aerial assessment, or are you waitingandseeing?

1. Bark inspection. Tap the bark with a mallet to determine whether it is detached from the wood. Measure the detached areas. Probe any cracks in the xylem with a thin instrument to determine the depth. If the damage to the lower trunk is not extensive, inspect the crown.
2. It is essential to check above the scaffold attachments. As with Tree #263m bark injury is most severe above these forks.
2. If the bark cannot be reattached, it should be trimmed—“traced”—back to the point where it is attached to the xylem, so there will be no hollow area as callus tissue grows over the wound. This applies to all the bark, from the top of the tree down to the buttress roots.
3. The exposed wood should be treated to repel insects. Reapply as needed.

 

[tshanefreeman]

good news about the sideflash to the truck--that bodes well for the bole. but what about the top of the tree?

Did you plan on doing an aerial assessment, or are you waitingandseeing?

When I installed the temperary support straps, I aerially climbed through the surrounding canopy (not out to the very tips) and looked for any bare cambium, cracks, and other damages indured from the lightning strike. The only area of concern that I encountered was that of the pre-existing included bark that we've been discussing. However, I didn't take a mallet with me and tap the surrounding bark. I will spend more time in the spring doing a more extensive bark attachment assessment. If I were to start tapping about today, the frozen state of the tree and its bark would cause more damage than anything.

 

[treeseer]

If I were to start tapping about today, the frozen state of the tree and its bark would cause more damage than anything.

OK, your style of winters are a dim memory to me. Bur oak is well named as macrocarpa so bark detachment will be hard enough to assess when it is not freezing. the attached is about post oak; its bark is thick but not quite as thick as bur.

Using the handle of the handsaw can work but hammer definitely better. A claw hammer with a straight claw gives you a prying tool to start pulling off the loose bark.

 

[John Paul Sanborn]

Bur oak is well named as macrocarpa so bark detachment will be hard enough to assess when it is not freezing.

Big seed oak? Does not compute Guy.

For thumping do you find a rubber mallet or a deadblow works better?

 

[treeseer]

Big seed oak? Does not compute Guy.

dopey me; i thought carp referred to bark. wtf do i know!

For thumping do you find a rubber mallet or a deadblow works better?

claw hammer on most trees, also have a rubber/fiberglass one if a lot of thumps will be made and for thinbarked trees.