Burnt “solid nose” Bar tip.

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Hi Gents,

I just returned home from testing my
Foggy fix on the 056 super chainsaw.

It’s running a brand new 3/8” .063 semi chisel stihl chain on an old Oregon solid nose 20” bar with 3/8” 8 tooth drive sprocket.

The chain wasn’t in any way tight (loose if anything) yet the bar and chain got hot very quickly.

I was cutting semi green pine (14-16”) and the oiler was working and set to max.

For some reason I noticed when cleaning the bar just now it has a hot spot (black mark) on the bottom edge of the hard nose. (I didn’t cut with this portion once)

The rest of the bar is normal, no burn marks. I took some pictures in the hope you could shed some light and some

Thanks in advance chaps.

Warm regards, Tom


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Thanks gents, I was advised by @trains that it may be burnt oil, I used some green scotch brite and oil and it came off easily. Hmm, either way, I’m really not a fan of how hot the nose got! It came free with the saw, but I’ll be sure to change it to a sproket nose.
To my eye, it really looked like bluing from heat, but I’m pleased it wasn’t.

I presume being the lower part of the tip was where the oil naturally went to most, that would make sense.

I must report to Foggy, capacitor fix was a success, 30 cuts and it was flawless, before I did about 3 and it cut out over and over.

4C6C3A5B-768F-4D66-98E9-6F33D087C56B.jpeg

Thanks again
 
The hard nose bars do create a lot more friction on the tip thus they need to have plenty of thick oil supplied and even then they will run hotter, discoloration of the oil is common with them. It required a lot of pumping of the manual oilers on saws like the Pioneer 600 series to keep the bar happy.
 
Pine? Another thought is burnt pitch.

Give your oiler another check, make sure it slings plenty of oil off the tip running out of a cut for a little while (~20-30 seconds)
That’s possible - good call, yes it oils just fine. I had it set to wide open and it was doing about 1 tank of oil to 1 tank of gas.
 
That’s possible - good call, yes it oils just fine. I had it set to wide open and it was doing about 1 tank of oil to 1 tank of gas.

One more thing to check. Looks like the bar is well used, but well taken car of, has been filed for burrs and such........... take some feeler gauges and see if the groove at the tip is worn, can check rest of bar at same time.

P.S. glad the coil fix worked out. I have 056 coils I need to fix too. What/where did you get the capacitor?
 
One more thing to check. Looks like the bar is well used, but well taken car of, has been filed for burrs and such........... take some feeler gauges and see if the groove at the tip is worn, can check rest of bar at same time.

P.S. glad the coil fix worked out. I have 056 coils I need to fix too. What/where did you get the capacitor?
Yes I did check, the groove is tighter in the nose at about 1.7mm and the side rails are 1.75mm. You are right it is cared for but well used :)

spec is 1.65mm and I think stihl says it’s good until It’s over 1.75mm

I was kindly gifted one by Scally here in Australia, i’m just waiting to hear back from Foggy if the link to alternative caps I shared on his thread are suitable, if so I’ll send you one.
 
Next time you use it install the bar so that the burnt section is opposite where it was last time. If it burns the clean area then it is likely one of the previous things mentioned. If it continues to burn the same spot, it is likely tight in that area. It does not take much of a pinch on a hard tip bar and it will take awhile to wear it away with chain.

The other thing to do is to trace the end of the bar on a piece of paper, flip the bar over and lay it over the tracing. If it is way out of shape it will show up easy doing that.

Measure the groove depth, where the weld is, make sure there is good clearance all the way around.
 
Next time you use it install the bar so that the burnt section is opposite where it was last time. If it burns the clean area then it is likely one of the previous things mentioned. If it continues to burn the same spot, it is likely tight in that area. It does not take much of a pinch on a hard tip bar and it will take awhile to wear it away with chain.

The other thing to do is to trace the end of the bar on a piece of paper, flip the bar over and lay it over the tracing. If it is way out of shape it will show up easy doing that.

Measure the groove depth, where the weld is, make sure there is good clearance all the way around.
Some fantastic tips. I’ll do exactly that, thanks mate!
 
Hi Gents,

I just returned home from testing my
Foggy fix on the 056 super chainsaw.

It’s running a brand new 3/8” .063 semi chisel stihl chain on an old Oregon solid nose 20” bar with 3/8” 8 tooth drive sprocket.

The chain wasn’t in any way tight (loose if anything) yet the bar and chain got hot very quickly.

I was cutting semi green pine (14-16”) and the oiler was working and set to max.

For some reason I noticed when cleaning the bar just now it has a hot spot (black mark) on the bottom edge of the hard nose. (I didn’t cut with this portion once)



The rest of the bar is normal, no burn marks. I took some pictures in the hope you could shed some light and some

Thanks in advance chaps.

Warm regards, Tom


View attachment 856915View attachment 856916View attachment 856917

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