Burried Stumps, Damaged Roots?

[roscioli]

Hey guys and gals, I am a ************ member, and know NOTHING about trees. One of my customers asked me a few questions about trees today, that I couldn;t answer, and couldnt find any results about by searching... Here goes:
#1- New septic 3 years ago, built up the bank with fill, burried some 5-10 trees approx 2 feet in fill. I know this can kill the tree, but will the damage have already been done, or can I reverse it by digging out the dirt around the base of the trees to the original level, and building makeshift wells for them? Also, is there anything else I can do to help the trees after digging them out?
#2- If there was major root damage done to another tree (same area, same contruction, but not burried), when will we likely see the outcome? It was also 3 years ago, should it be dead already, or might it die in a few years from this older damage?
Thank you folks very much for your help,

Michael Roscioli,
Roscioli Landscaping

 

[treeclimber165]

Digging the dirt back MIGHT help, but more than likely the damage has already been done. Considering the compaction and suffocation of the roots, the trees will only live on their stored reserves for so long. Most times it can take anywhere from 6 months to 4-5 years for major root damage to become evident. Check out this thread from last week.
http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?threadid=907

I would recommend clearing back around the trunks to the root flare on the healthier looking trees to keep the trunks from rotting, and remove the trees that are dying back before they become hazards. In other words, try to save what you can and write off the dying ones.

 

[roscioli]

Thank you for the response, I checked out the other thread, pretty good info there too. If the tree is dying, will it show from the top thinning out , or the bottom thinning out? None of these trees that were burried seem to have any visible thinning, but I might not be looking for the right things... I will get back to this guy tomorrow about what I find out, and do the work in 2 weeks or so. Thanks again, Mike

 

[John Paul Sanborn]

You start to see decline in the tip top first. One rule is if you see evenly distributed dieback or thinning, check out the basal area/root zone.

Yes remidiation is possible, but what is the expence vs replacing the trees?

Not only will you need to restor the grade, but fracture the soilin the root zone, because it is probibly compacted.

Can you restore the grade far enough out to make it worth while?

With the #2 tree, a root zone excivation is the only way to find out. The best way is with compressed air. I've had work done with an AirSpade. I know people who have made their own that work well enough for them.

Remember, you can do as much damage trying to fix the problem as was done three years ago. Dig some test pits befor bringing machinery in. Then maybe amend the soil with root stimulants, and mychorrizea, worms and other things that will work on the soil on the particulate level.

We can only work on the macroscopic level, compaction is microscopic. it cna not be "fixed" untill the worms (et.al.) crawl in and out.