davbell22602
ArboristSite Lurker
Can anyone recommend a brand name of axe for splitting oak firewood? I was going to get one from tractor supply. Thought I'd check here first to if brand name and type of axe matters any?
Buying A Axe for Splitting Oak Firewood
- Thread starter davbell22602
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chiefs584ever
ArboristSite Operative
Fiskars X27. You can thank me later. It just plain works.
Jeremy102579
ArboristSite Operative
How big are most of the Rounds ?
I have nothing but good things to say about the x27 !
But for huge rounds, I would say a 6-8# Maul might work better.
I have nothing but good things to say about the x27 !
But for huge rounds, I would say a 6-8# Maul might work better.
davbell22602
ArboristSite Lurker
I have some that are 13-20in diameter. I dont wanna go any bigger than 12in round and 12in length in the fireplace.
I see a lot of guys suggesting the X27 all the time. I have one and it is great but for ME I much prefer the X25. I use a tall chopping block so maybe that is it but it would be worth handling both if possible before you buy. Then again they are cheap enough you could own both if you initial purchase doesnt suit you. BTW I am 6'1" and I still prefer the 25 to the 27 so its not all about height. I got a buddy thats 6'6" and he likes the 25 as much as the 27 too so its not just me. Either way get the fiskars.
Same as others: Fiskars X27. But you really need to add a 6 or 8 lb maul to the tool kit.
I see you want to stick to small rounds - The Fiskars will handle them but will balk at knots/crotches.
Harry K
davbell22602
ArboristSite Lurker
Couple of you are recommending that I need to add 6-8 maul. So any recommendation on those 6-8 mauls?
So far on the tool kit is x27.
So far on the tool kit is x27.
Wetterlings 5.5 lb maul. Excellent metallurgy, from real, human smiths. Should outlast a few fiskars.
That maul for the initial splits down the middle, depending on the wood. Then, whatever suits.
There are differences between "splitting axes" and "mauls" but I dare anyone to list them. Intentionally fuzzified.
There are mauls that are next to useless- way too blunt. Comparing them to any other category of tool is misleading. Real quality steels are hard to come by too.
That maul for the initial splits down the middle, depending on the wood. Then, whatever suits.
There are differences between "splitting axes" and "mauls" but I dare anyone to list them. Intentionally fuzzified.
There are mauls that are next to useless- way too blunt. Comparing them to any other category of tool is misleading. Real quality steels are hard to come by too.
davbell22602
ArboristSite Lurker
The only splitting tool I have is the old vintage oregon one that looks like a ice cream cone.
RiverRocket
ArboristSite Guru
Tractor Supply sells the True Temper Splitting Axe for $30....Just as good as the Fiskars x27 in my opinion.
Don't know where the Fiskars is manufactured, But I know that True Temper is Made in the USA.
Don't know where the Fiskars is manufactured, But I know that True Temper is Made in the USA.
7sleeper
Addicted to ArboristSite
Here's a thread I did a while back on how to improve on a store bought el cheapo design. I have now 2 of these and am quite happy and both together for less than half price what a Fiskars would cost over here!
http://www.arboristsite.com/firewood-heating-wood-burning-equipment/148662.htm
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http://www.arboristsite.com/firewood-heating-wood-burning-equipment/148662.htm
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davbell22602
ArboristSite Lurker
Thanks for the replies. Keep em coming.
Sent from my XT881 using Tapatalk 2
Sent from my XT881 using Tapatalk 2
zogger
Tree Freak
The only significant difference (outside of generic shape) I could name would be a maul has a sledgehammer back, and an axe doesn't.
Well, my first question would be what kind of oak??
If it's Red Oak, and the rounds don't go any larger than 20-inches I'd say a splitting ax (like the Fiskars, for one) would do the job for you. But if it's one of the White Oaks, especially Bur Oak, you'll want a maul to halve them before switching to the ax. Mauls can commonly be had from 4 to 12 pounds, with 6 or 8 being the best all-'round. If you haven't done any maul swinging go with the 6-pounder; the 8 will work you rather than you working the maul. My 8# maul is old, really old, and the lettering is long gone... I haven't used any of the "box-store" mauls marketed today so I can't help you with any choices. If you know good steel when you see it and feel it, hit some flea markets and pick-up an oldie-but-goodie... and put a new handle on it. Be aware, you'll need a bit of learning time to make either work correctly, and it takes a bit of a technique change going from a maul to an ax... you don't swing them quite the same
davbell22602
ArboristSite Lurker
This is all I have right now for splitting white oak firewood.
