Can someone explain to me the different chisel types?

[IchWarriorMkII]

I know there are micro chisels, or half ground chisels, but I've failed to google search up an explanation, and a diagram of their profiles to see what the different shapes are, and what their difference is.

Can someone explain this in Homeowner/Farm boy lingo?

Thanks

 

[CaseyForrest]

http://stihlusa.com/chainsaws/types.html

Does that help?

 

[IchWarriorMkII]

A little bit.

From what I gather, a Full Chisel chain would offer better performance in cutting hard wood?

So if I were to be after a chain (or 5) to run on my 353 for cutting Cedar trees, a full chisel would be more desirable than something else?

 

[CaseyForrest]

Well, if its clean, then yes. If what you are cutting is dirty, then semi-chisel would work better.

Dont get square chisel and round chisel confused either. Unless you are one heck of a filer, you want Round Ground chisel.

The main difference between Semi Chisel (Stihl RM) and Full chisel (Stihl RS) is the RM can take more abuse. The rounded corner has more meat behind it, and will keep and edge longer. RM is also more forgiving to a newbie filer.

 

[IchWarriorMkII]

Okay, good to know.


Its been pushed over with a JD 450C while I've been carving a road, so its pretty dirty.

For sharpening, I have a bench mount grinder at my disposable. (comes free with training, as long as I tell my old man how right and smart he is )

 

[l2edneck]

Thx casey, i been asking for some of that info for weeks.Im guessin that the (RS)prolly be my best all around choice thx again.

 

[Kneejerk Bombas]

Okay, good to know.


Its been pushed over with a JD 450C while I've been carving a road, so its pretty dirty.

For sharpening, I have a bench mount grinder at my disposable. (comes free with training, as long as I tell my old man how right and smart he is )

LoL, even free, it sounds expensive.

 

[CaseyForrest]

I just recently got some Oregon Chain, some 72LG and some 20LP. I am not all that familiar with Oregons numbers, but out of the box the Oregon seemed sharper than the Stihl out of the box.

I know the LG chain is equivalent to Stihls RS. The LP chain is .325 round ground chisel, with some sort of anti-kickback. Although you wouldnt know it unless you look close.

For the price, I may stop buying Stihl chain.

Chisel does cut faster than semi chisel. On my 361 with RM I was 8 seconds through 8x8 poplar. With the Oregon LP chain I was 6 seconds in the same 8x8.

 

[SawTroll]

To keep it simple, normally use round ground chisel (also called full chisel - no difference), and keep some semi-chisel as backup for dirty wood and stumps.....

 

[SawTroll]

Kick back reducing chain

I once posted this, and feel like repeating it here, for the sake of LG vs LP comparison

Kick back reducing chain.... is a more proper term than "safety chain", as no saw chain is really safe.

Just remember that the are some principally different types of such chain out there:

1) The chain with tripple-hump or just one large one, on the tie straps between cutters. These are the ones that really suck, slowing down cutting in general, and making bore cutting next to impossible.
Stihl RM2, PM1 and Oregon SL, VG belongs to this category.

2) Chain with a small ramp on the driver, directly in front of a narrow (not "bullet-shaped" like on Stihl RS/RSC and Oregon LG) raker.
The combined size of the raker and ramp is not much larger than the raker alone on the RS/LG, and I think you would be hard pressed to notice any slower cutting - maybe there will be a small difference in very long cuts.
Some even say that these chain perform better than LG/RS for bore cutting.
Oregon LP/BP/VP (++), and Stihl RSC3 belongs to this category.

Carton/Woodsmanpro also have variants of both types, but I suspect that the ramp on their "category 2" chain may be a bit larger than on the Oregon variants.

Edit; Both the rakers and the ramps are much larger on the RSC3/RS3
and the Carlton version, and they are "green Chain, unlike the LP/LPX.

c3) The somewhat bullet shaped rakers on chain like Stihl RS/RSC/RM/RMC and Oregon LG etc were also originally conceived as a kick-back reducing feature - at least according to Oregon.

4) The most kick-back aggressive chain are those with only a narrow raker, and no bumps or ramps, like Stihl RSK.

In addition we have oddballs like the Oregon Vanguard (V), and I am sure there is more.

By the way, this is my post number 2000 here, and hopefully it makes some sence....

 

[CaseyForrest]

Thanks Saw, that helped me!!

 

[WoodTick007]

It would be best for overall cutting performance if you purchase a "NON" safety semi-chisel chain like an Oregon DG............ Grinder or no grinder, full chisel will cut extremely FAST when PERFECTLY sharpened and perectly clean wood. In MY opinion full chisel's (square corner) performance falls of rapidly once it becomes even slightly dull. With full chisel, one touch of dirt on the surface of the trees bark and I usually change my chain and put a freshly sharpened chain on.... SEMI-CHISEL or rounded corner chain will cut fine in most all cutting conditions and will keep cutting well as it begins to loose its edge. Like any chain, you can adjust your grinders angles to peak the performance.

I am not supporting cutting with "DULL" chain.....as it is a HUGE saftey factor and will quickly cause operator fatigue.

Opinions in this post reflect my personal experiences and do not reflect the thoughts of other members or the thoughts of the Arboristsite management or employees.....:rockn:

 

[daemon2525]

I wasn't going to make a new post but since it came up..

I was considering getting a loop of RS chain to try out. I was looking in great detail at the paper that comes with the Stihl chain and noticed that it looks like the RM chain has one of the angles that specify an 80 or 85 degree angle (can't remember). Anyway, it has the RS chain at 60 for the same angle.

I have been sharpening my chains with the "CHEAP CHAIN GRINDER" and this angle is not adjustable on my grinder. Does that mean that I cannot sharpen RS chain. Yes I know that I could sharpen it at the 8x degree angle that my grinder is pre-set to. I think that this would defeat the purpose of having the RS chain.

True?

 

[CaseyForrest]

I sharpen my RM and RS the same way.

30 degrees on the outside top plate, and 0 degrees on the inside top plate. Oregon recommends 10 degrees on the inside top plate. I may try this on the Stihl chain.

I think you are referring to the outside side plate with the 80-85 and 60. If I am reading it correctly, that will determine how much "hook" you have on the working corner.

 

[SawTroll]

So do I Casey, no difference in the filing angles.

The sideplate angle should become correct if the other angles are correct, and the file is held at the correct hight.