Can you Hone a factory 034 cylinder?

[Tim Gordon]

I’ve Spoken to quite a few people in regards to my other post which was about replacing my cylinder and piston on my 034 from a 46mm to a 48mm
my next question is on those older saws were the O/E cylinder Walls chrome/Nikisil plated?
Or is it a material that can be honed?
At work we have a full machine shop which includes a Power Hone, And my boss has all sorts of different adaptors to fit very small bores
It might be a complete waste of time but if I don’t have to find or buy a jug that cuts the cost down And then I’ll just need a piston and a few gaskets
Let me know what you guys think
I’m not trying to make a race saw out of it but it never hurts to have a little more horsepower!! Lol

 

[TheTone]

Chrome. The plating is very thin and the only honing they can stand is a light crosshatch. The diameter cannot be enlarged.

 

[drf255]

They are Nikasil coated and cannot be bored unless you plan on having them replated. The cost would be counter productive. They can take a cautious light hone.

Your best (and cheapest) bet is buying a used oem top and a meteor piston.

 

[Tim Gordon]

Lol thats all I needed to hear thank you!
I’m pretty knowledgeable in the automotive world but I’m pretty “green” when it comes to the small engine stuff
I’m not trying to be cheap, because sometimes there are other ways but in this case there isn’t!
Thanx again guys for the info

 

[drf255]

No worries. After doing saws for years I stared at an iron bore boat engine trying to figure out how the hell they bore them out without replating. Took me a few days to realize.

 

[alexcagle]

A dremel with a 503 sand paper paddle bit, on high speed, dry, in light random circular motions is what I use.
If there is heavier aluminum transfer, then use a small tri-stone brake caliper hone first, with wd40 or lacquer thinner while honing to flow out the particles. This will knock down the high spots, so you won't have to get as agressive with the dremel and risk wearing through. If your peticular cylinder has open transfers at the bottom, then this won't work, as it will hang up.

 

[Mad Professor]

I still like using the acid method to remove transfer: finger hone with wet/dry and dish detergent/water, acid... repeat as needed.

It's slow but won't hurt the plating unless it already has holes or you are sloppy with the acid

 

[RTK]

I still like using the acid method to remove transfer: finger hone with wet/dry and dish detergent/water, acid... repeat as needed.

It's slow but won't hurt the plating unless it already has holes or you are sloppy with the acid

That is the safest and least destructive way of doing it.

 

[drf255]

I still like using the acid method to remove transfer: finger hone with wet/dry and dish detergent/water, acid... repeat as needed.

It's slow but won't hurt the plating unless it already has holes or you are sloppy with the acid

Couldn’t agree more. I use both carefully. It’s the least destructive, but like everything else, it’s a bit of a learning curve.

 

[Jeff Lary]

The only time I tried acid it was unbelievably slow. I used new Mauriac Acid and "Q" tips. Next I found Randy's "cleaning transfer video" and used that,.. it worked much better. By the looks of the response's though maybe I was doing something wrong with the acid,? because it seems to have been successful for some.

 

[Mad Professor]

The only time I tried acid it was unbelievably slow. I used new Mauriac Acid and "Q" tips. Next I found Randy's "cleaning transfer video" and used that,.. it worked much better. By the looks of the response's though maybe I was doing something wrong with the acid,? because it seems to have been successful for some.

You need to get any oil/carbon off the transfer for the acid to act on the aluminum.

That's why I hit it with wet/dry paper and dish detergent first, then acid, then repeat as needed.......

If it stops bubbling (it off gases hydrogen gas) you have used up either the acid or the aluminum. Hit it with a bit more acid. If it bubbles let it work, if not rinse then sand it again.......

Muriatic acid is 6M hydrochloric acid (aqueous HCl). If you can find the 12M/37% concentrate it will work quicker.

Wear gloves and safety glasses. HCl is a gas and a capped bottle will off gas (looks like smoke) when you open it. Use in a well ventilated area and keep your nose away.

If you need to rinse, have a spill, or get some acid on the wrong part of the cylinder (port chamfers) , have some baking soda (NaHCO3) solution handy to neutralize it.

P.S. if you smear a little grease on the port chamfers, it will protect the aluminum from any errant acid. This works for small nicks in the plating too

 

[Jeff Lary]

all good to know

 

[Huskybill]

Back in the day(70’s) we honed the cylinders of the saws that came in seized if, only “if” there wasn’t much piston material stuck in the walls. I used a ball hone now for nikasil. Just jog the hone in and jog it out to put the oil lines in it. Can’t bore it but I also have the special stones for nikasil that’s a special hone. I can bore just about any material castiron, steel liners. Don’t try this at home I been boring cylinders for many decades on two stroke and four stroke bikes,

My recent rebuild my 2100, new crankbearings, crankseals, gaskets, piston, good cylinder. I have a clean cylinder that was slightly scored but I chose a better cylinder.

 

[TheTone]

I’ve Spoken to quite a few people in regards to my other post which was about replacing my cylinder and piston on my 034 from a 46mm to a 48mm
my next question is on those older saws were the O/E cylinder Walls chrome/Nikisil plated?
Or is it a material that can be honed?

Chrome. The plating is very thin and the only honing they can stand is a light crosshatch. The diameter cannot be enlarged.

Hello Dr. Wallis,
We are in receipt of and thank you for your e-mail.
All cylinders used in STIHL engines are chrome finished. We find this finish to be the best material for promoting friction-reducing lubricity between the piston skirt and cylinder wall.

Thank you again for your e-mail.

Best regards,

Wayne Lemmond
Technical Service Representative

STIHL Inc.