Canola bar oil?

[sawinredneck]

Antybody have any results from this yet? We talked about it a while ago, and some of you were going to start using it, anything yet?
Andy

 

[04ultra]

I thought Dan was going to give a report on this.





Maybe he forgot because of his fear of the 441... :hmm3grin2orange:

 

[Splunk]

I ran it for about 5 gallons of gas. I was not impressed and I really wanted to be. I noticed more strech in my chains and the bar seemed to get quite a bit hotter than with normal bar oil. I went back to normal bar oil. I guess I will have to try the stihl bio bar oil.

 

[pitkas]

A guy I use to work with used canola oil in his saw for quartering a moose. He said it was a mess. He also recommended not using canola oil for anything else it was bad on the chain.

 

[Big Woody]

I have found the solid crisco works the best. What my mama used on pork chops when we was kids. Heat it and it melts and you can pour it in the tank. Only problem is that it solidifies when the saw cools off.

 

[Elmore]

Cholesterol Free

Last week I picked up 5 quarts of Mazola brand canola oil at Sam's Club for $5.08. Used it in my Makita DCS 520i yesterday and believe that it performed much better than the cheap Poulan Pro oil that I had previously been using. More time, use and comparison should tell.

 

[B_Turner]

My brother is a long time arborist and was pretty excited about biodegradable oils for using when they cut near streams etc. He said they recently tried the Sithl bio and felt like the bars and chains were running hotter and was disappointed.

I have some Baileys bio but haven't tried it yet.

Course they have been using it in Europe for years.

 

[Stumper]

I've been using vegetable oils for a couple of years now-mostly Canola but some soy and corn oils.
The pluses: Flows better through weak oilers. Lubricates very well-I experience almost NO chain stretch. Washes out of work clothing much easier than petroleum based bar oil.
The negatives: The spillage and bar spray oxidizes/hardens on exterior saw surfaces gumming up air inlets and crevices. In my area veggie costs a little more per gallon than petro.

The gummy stuff dissolves easily with fresh oil or petroleum solvents. Water and Simple Green work pretty well too. However the saws do need the oil and sawdust grunge cleaned after extensive repeated use of veggie oil (they need cleaning after extensive petroleum oil use to but the petro doesn't gum.)

 

[carvinmark]

I've been running it for a few months in my aux oiler on my mill and it seems to be ok.I still run regular bar oil in the saw.
Mark

 

[Elmore]

Vegetable Oil For Lubricating Chain Saws

PDF : http://www.fs.fed.us/eng/pubs/pdf/98511316.pdf

HTML : http://72.14.253.104/search?q=cache...erties+of+canola+oil&hl=en&gl=us&ct=clnk&cd=9

 

[B_Turner]

My brother is a long time arborist and was pretty excited about biodegradable oils for using when they cut near streams etc. He said they recently tried the Sithl bio and felt like the bars and chains were running hotter and was disappointed.

I have some Baileys bio but haven't tried it yet.

Course they have been using it in Europe for years.

My brother was here yesterday for Christmas and bio oil came up again. I wanted to update my posting as I thought they had stopped using it.

The update is he still thinks bars and chains run noticeably hotter in extreme conditions, but his crew still uses it (Stihl) quite a bit in general use. Cost is an issue as his is a municipal crew, and I told him about some folks using canola oil.

Just wanted to report correctly that they still are running bio a fair bit. He likes how clean the saw and bar stay, too.

I have run the baileys bio but the cost has sort of put me off (16bucks vs Stihl for 4bucks). Am planning to try some canola oil (once I find a cheap source) in a couple of my saws myself.

I generate mountains of noodles shavings and I would feel better about disposing of them using some sort of bio oil.

 

[woodchux]

My wife just got me a 35 lb jug of soybean oil from a restaraunt. She paid 12 or 13 dollars. I start using it tomorrow and will report back.

 

[Diesel JD]

Hey guys...I know there are some who fear this stuff will ruin their saws, and maybe they have a right to be worried. As for myself I've head mixed experiences. I cannot say for sure if the veggie bar oil contributed to my lubrication problems with my MS390 or not, but in my MS192T and 025 I have had zero problems with canola. Corn oil is a different story. As long as you use the saw every day and/or purge the tank with clean mineral based oil before you store it more than a week or so you'll be fine. Otherwise the stuff will set up and gum your sprocket so it won't turn and the chain will become stiff. The canola has shown no such tendencies. Now to my problem with the 390. It had a few different issues. First, the oil gallery plug popped out of the casing. I replaced it with a set screw that didn't completely fit and obstructed the oil gallery, so that reduced the oil flow. Also the bar groove had a lot of sawdust in it also obstructing flow. I had used corn oil in there before I knew better. As of now I am still using canola in my 192T and 025, and for the time being running petrleum based stuff in my 390. The 390 seen=ms to be very lean with the oil even in the best of c=situations and I am using either a 24" bar or a 16" bow on it which is at the edge of its capabilities and some may say beyond. As for a cheap source of veggie oil cheap is a relative term, I bet you can find canola at a place like Sysco or Florida Food Service or whoever has a similar outfit in your area, restaurant supply shops for abou $20-25 for a 35lb jug, somewhere between $3.75-$5.50 per gallon. You could also probably use soy or peanut oil. I would not suggest WVO since that has a lot of acid and food particles in it. Make biodiesel or burn that staright!
J.D.

 

[gunnarfan]

From what I understand from my cooking background for pan frying Safflower oil holds up well for the higher temps.