Carb for 200T

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teacherman

Aging out of the insanity...
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I think I have isolated the problem on my 200T. I vac tested the case at 20 inches of Hg, no movement on the dial. (Gorilla duct tape does work!:) )
The impulse hose looks fine, is very flexible. I did not repalce the spark plug, but it seems to surely be a fuel problem. The carb is a China-made:angry2: Zama 616A, a model identified by Lake as likely having a bad carb body and needing replacement.

Question is, 1. Can i replace this crab, I mean, carb, with a different one, perhaps by another mfg.?
2. Where should I look to obtain said carb? Mucho gratitudino.

Oh, BTW, I learned the hard way not to try to split the muffler to clean out the carbon..........I broke off three of the four bolts holding it together, and it still wouldn't come apart. Grrrr
 
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Just buy the latest carb from Stihl - C1Q61E... About $79. If your saw is less than two years old (unlikely with a 61A), you can likely get a replacement for free from Stihl ("emission component warranty").


You can try rebuilding the accelerator pump assy - kit available, but in my experience, the body will be worn.


Next time..use heat gun on the muffler bolts...
 
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D-uhhhhh........

You know, this saw always seemed to run a little rich, which was good when cutting something bigger than normal, but check this out. I was at the dealer ordering a new carb, and I had the muffler there to show him the broken-off bolts, and I just absent-mindedly pulled out the spark screen, which looks like this AFTER two days in a can of Berryman Chem-Dip. Jim seemed to think that this might have something to do with the acceleration problem, so I am gonna try putting it back together as is, without the screen (I don't think there are any federal lands that allow cutting around here), and see whut happens. I think it just might make a dfference. The saw is right around two years old, according to my dealer. I will report back later when I get it all assembled.:greenchainsaw:

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lololol


So... to clean that mess... clamp it in a vice by the tip, heat it red hot with propane, and blow it with air while hot. It will be like new. 30 seconds....
 
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That sounds like a good idea. I wish reassembling the handle would be that easy............gosh what a buncha small parts in there. Microneurosurgery would like be easier.................:greenchainsaw:

Glad to have been able to provide you with entertainment there, Doc. Me aims too please. lol
 
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That sounds like a good idea. I wish reassembling the handle would be that easy............gosh what a buncha small parts in there. Microneurosurgery would like be easier.................:greenchainsaw:

Glad to have been able to provide you with entertainment there, Doc. Me aims too, please. lol

Yeah I hate working on those but I'm getting better,,, make sure you paid attention to which hole the Throttle rod came out of!!!!!

LOL!!!
 
Yeah I hate working on those but I'm getting better,,, make sure you paid attention to which hole the Throttle rod came out of!!!!!

LOL!!!

Like a hole in the plastic, for one of those bent-up metal thingys? No I have no idea. My manual I think covers the Pre-Cambrian variant of this little hyperactive termite, back when saws were chiseled from a block of stone.........:chainsaw:
Oh, I know I will get it figured out sooner or later...........
 
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Like a hole in the plastic, for one of those bent-up metal thingys? No I have no idea. My manual I think covers the Pre-Cambrian variant of this little hyperactive termite, back when saws were chiseled from a block of stone.........:chainsaw:
Oh, I know I will get it figured out sooner or later...........

I was refering to the other end that goes on the throttle rod actuator,,, if you look,,,, it has about 4 or 5 holes to pick from,,,,, hmmm??? ,,,,, then if you dont put it in the right one the butterfly/throttle plate wont open all the way!!! Hmmmmm????

I hate when that happens,,,,
 
whine whine whine... I do at least one a month that comes in as a box of parts... I try to put it togther in 5 minutes while the guy watches just to rub it in ;)


Having said that... years ago I bought a 20T of fleabay... My first.. Tore it all down.. took my an hour or two to figure the handle out...


Now I can do them in sandstorm at night blindfolded - the blind fold is just incase the storm stops suddenly.
 
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Actually, it was not hard at all, once I got started. Fortunately I did not remove every single part, just enough to make it look confusing. It only went together one way. Took about 20 min. till I had the carb back on. The hardest part was aligning the Morphulus transit rod according to the Post-Cambrian choke modulation standards, and then correlating the frangella polymers with the Gaussian coefficient of the Sino-American metallurgical compression modulus. In plain English, my fingers are too durn big!!!:dizzy:

Turns out that it was the carburetor after all. All that fuss and it still would't accelerate. SO........ I switched carbs with my rear handle MS 200, which looks identical, and I have my amazing little saw back. Now the question is.... should I order the carb that came off the 200? Its numbers read like this: top line:S96A, bottom line: 608A. I am inclined to do so.

I seem to be slowly learning about chainsaws...........:monkey:

Do I hear an "I told you so?" :greenchainsaw: Cause you sure did, mon. Thanks, Andy!
 
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Nope.. order the the carb for the 200T! They are different...

The correct way to order the is by part number, not carb number...

1129 120 0605 - it will be a C1Q61E


And...


TOLD YOU SO
 

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