carb limiter caps

[SilverKing]

Hey everybody.I have been working on an Echo CS 400 for a few days .It seems to be starving for fuel.The fuel lines look good,the filter is new.It doesnt have the lean sound like a saw sucking air.Im thinking about removing the limter caps and opening it up a bit.Do the caps need to be intact to keep the needles from turning?Also,do the needles normally set about 1 turn out on a limiter capped carb?Thanks in advance for any help.Walbro carb by the way.

 

[Rx7man]

I know there's a special tool used on the newer Echo saws to adjust them, not sure on the limiter caps preventing the needles from turning, but I would *suspect* the needle screws still have a spring under them to hold them.
Is it getting a good impulse signal? Could the pump diaphragm be bad? how about the float diaphragm level (runs different if it's laying on it's side usually)

If it were my saw I'd probably remove the limiter caps and give it a 1/8th turn out on the high side, maybe that's all it needs..
Either way, here's a bump

 

[MustangMike]

Never removed the caps on one of them. Some carbs need the caps (w/limiter tab removed) re-inserted to keep the screws from moving, others do not. Not sure about UR saw.

 

[SilverKing]

Thanks guys,thinkin now the diaphragm is bad,gonna try a new kit tomorrow.Thanks again.

 

[Jameson]

I have three echo saws, all manufactured in may, june, or july of 2014.

There are no special tools needed to adjust the carburetor other than a small flathead screwdriver.

Easiest way to remove limiter caps is to remove the metal plate around them first.

I have not reinstalled the caps after adjustment and the screws dont seem to move after dozens of hours.

 

[o8f150]

pull the limiters on that saw,, they come out of the factory lean,,, and no you don't have to put them back on either,, the needles just need a small screw driver to adjust them,,, I put the limiters back on with the tabs trimmed just for the fact its easier to adjust the mixture,,, bigger slot on the limiter then the needle,,,,,i have done dozens of the echos

 

[Jameson]

I would also remove the cat in the muffler if you are able. I might have a spare muffler for that saw that i hollowed out.

 

[RAS61]

I recently went through this with my Echo CS305. In trying to remove the caps the tops broke off, which worked out just fine, now I have access to the slotted srews underneath. I removed the sleeves and shaved off the tabs on the side that limit how far you can turn them. Since there are no springs on the screws to prevent them from moving I reinstalled the sleeves on the screws (not sure this was necessary, but some advised this, and can only help in preventing the screws from turning). Now I can easily adjust the carb as much as I want.

Concerning how far the screws should be turned out, best thing to do is to count how many turns in after the limiters are removed and write that down. Now you have a starting point after a rebuild or cleaning (I actually forgot to do this ).

 

[Jameson]

I think there is info somewhere on this site on what the echo factory has for a stock sea level carb setting.

Please don't quote me on the numbers but it was around the 1 3/4 ccw range on the H and 1 or 1 1/4 ccw range on the L - from stop. The idle is the one I had trouble with.

See with my cs-400 I thought I would get smart and adjust the carb before I ever started it out of the box. So I removed the limiters and the plate, "tuned" it (I had only tuned my cs-352 before, but I had run it for 4 or so hours before tuning) and messed with the idle screw. It wouldn't start. So I went to reading on this site for about and hour, adjusted everything and had her running in about 5 pulls. Then I had to of course fine tune it or it would die from throttle or die after a cut etc. Every problem possible.

But with about 10 or fifteen minutes of listening for the proper tones and paying attention to the signs of a poorly set idle and poor performance and how those relate to how the H and L are set, I had her running perfect. My cs-400 has cut about 20 hours worth of oak and hardwood with vxl chain and Im impressed at its power, with a muffler mod. Before the mod it did bog down more frequently. You need a good log that you can tune the saw in. I don't tune "in" the log. I remove saw from wood, employ chain brake and often then turn the saw off each time I adjust the carb in the woods, don't be dangerous.