Chain/Bar Question: Husqvarna 435 (16" NK to 18" Standard Kerf)

[Slade McCuiston]

I've been using a Husqvarna 435 for most of the cutting around the farm, and I've finally wore the chain out. It came with a .325 pitch, .050 gauge pixel chain (Narrow-Kerf).

I've been itching to put an 18" bar on this saw for a while, and I've got to ditch this safety chain (H30/95VP) as it makes it nearly impossible to perform bore cuts. So, does anyone have any suggestions as far as chains go? I've had many people suggest the 20LPX.

Another question I had... I've never owned a saw before that had a narrow-kerf set-up. I don't need to change anything else (other than the bar/chain) out to make it go from a narrow-kerf to standard chain, correct?

Finally, which bar would you suggest? I'm leaning towards the 18" Oregon Pro-Lite Bar.

Any help is appreciated.

 

[SawTroll]

Stay with 16" or shorter on that saw - even that is a strech imo!

There is nothing wrong with ProLite, and LPX is excellent chain, also for borecutting. :msp_smile:

 

[Slade McCuiston]

It's a 41cc (40.9) saw and came stock with a 16" bar. The 16" bar doesn't bog down at all, but I've had several times where I couldn't quite reach. The paperwork says it can handle an 18" bar, so I just figured that if I didn't really push the saw and just let it do the cutting, it would perform alright. I may do some rethinking on this, but if I can make an 18" bar work, I need it. I hate breaking out a bigger saw for just two inches.

Thanks, SawTroll, for the quick response. I'm glad to hear your opinion on the chains and bars (and bar length, for that matter)!

 

[eat a peach]

18 in NK....

Site sponsor Baileys has a sale right now on NK 18IN ,72 and 74 DL . I run this on my 346xp's in 16in and it runs great. I believe you can buy a loop for 12.99. They also have Arbor Pro Bars cheap too. I have used these bars for about 2yrs and they hold up as well if not better than OEM.

 

[HuskStihl]

I'm going to second Niko (The Troll). That saw comes with a very small clutch and is designed for light duty. An 18" with a more aggressive chain will be boggy. My 445 doesn't like an 18, and I'd never really think about using it for any serious boring/falling anyway. You sound like you know your way around cutting, might be time to invest in some more saw

 

[rburg]

You can run the 20lpx on your nk bar. The 20nk chain that bailey's sells will bore fine as well. I believe you will be happier with the 20nk performance wise on your saw than you will the 20lpx.

 

[Slade McCuiston]

I'm going to second Niko (The Troll). That saw comes with a very small clutch and is designed for light duty. An 18" with a more aggressive chain will be boggy. My 445 doesn't like an 18, and I'd never really think about using it for any serious boring/falling anyway. You sound like you know your way around cutting, might be time to invest in some more saw

Thanks, I do need more saw, but that just isn't a possibility at the moment. I have access to larger saws, and I guess I'm just wanting too much out of the pipsqueak... I just hate lugging a heavy-ass saw around for just a few more inches.

I believe I'm probably going to stick with the Oregon 20LPX chain (20LPX-66) but just use a 16" bar (160SLGK095). That should prevent the bogging down while still allowing me to cut more like a saw and less like a toaster.

Thank you guys so much. Normally, I just go buy the same chain that it says on the box, but I'm tired of having to borrow a non-safety chained saw to perform an advanced cut. FYI (and I'm sure everyone already knows, except me), Oregon's got an awesome tool on their website that shows you what bars to use with what chains and gives a list of the lengths, pitches, gauges, drive links, etc.

 

[SawTroll]

You can run the 20lpx on your nk bar. The 20nk chain that bailey's sells will bore fine as well. I believe you will be happier with the 20nk performance wise on your saw than you will the 20lpx.

I suspect you may be right, as I am also a bit sceptical to the use of LPX on a saw that weak - but it is the best option if he wants to try chisel chain.

As usual, there is only one way to find out for sure, and he doesn't need a New bar to do that! :msp_wink:

 

[Slade McCuiston]

I suspect you may be right, as I am also a bit sceptical to the use of LPX on a saw that weak - but it is the best option if he wants to try chisel chain.

As usual, there is only one way to find out for sure, and he doesn't need a New bar to do that! :msp_wink:

I just don't feel comfortable using a full-size chain in a NK bar. It's not made specifically for that. I'd rather spend an extra 30-40 bucks and have the right bar. It just seems to me like a regular chain would 'waller out' (don't know the actual term for it) the NK bar, and I intend to keep the NK bar in good condition for limbing and times when I might encounter dirt accidentally.

 

[w8ye]

I've used a Husqvarna 435 with the 16" narrow kerf chain. There seemed to be no problem in the power department but the OEM chain with the bumpers on the driver links would make bore cuts not happen.

A very likable 41ccc saw but I've considered that the narrow kerf bar and chain was the secret to its perceived power?.

 

[HuskStihl]

Those little homeowner grade huskies are surprisingly good saws for the money. Saw a 435 at TSC for $125 new the other day as they're phasing out husky. I've been extremely happy with my 445, and although there is no one right way to do things, generally letting a saw work in it's comfort range will make you the happiest. Have you muffler modded the saw and clipped the limiters?

 

[SawTroll]

....

A very likable 41ccc saw but I've considered that the narrow kerf bar and chain was the secret to its perceived power?.

That could well be, as I tried to indicate in an earlier post! :msp_wink:

Btw, I have had no problem at all bore cutting with 95VP/H30 chain (in birch) - but I haven't used any of recent production...

 

[Tnshaker]

I am a Stihl guy generally, however my 435 has blown me away for a small saw. I little cold a first but man it zings the 16" bar at only 40cc. I have been very impressed. Since I am a Stihl guy I look for a reason to get rid of it but as of so far can't find one.

 

[Joe Kidd]

I just don't feel comfortable using a full-size chain in a NK bar. It's not made specifically for that. I'd rather spend an extra 30-40 bucks and have the right bar. It just seems to me like a regular chain would 'waller out' (don't know the actual term for it) the NK bar, and I intend to keep the NK bar in good condition for limbing and times when I might encounter dirt accidentally.

A lot of dealers pair up the 545/550 with a NK bar and they run quite well with the 20LPX.

 

[apn73]

I'll be interested hear how that 435 runs with the 20LPX and a 16" bar. I've looking hard at 340's and have wondered if I would need to stick with NK to keep in from bogging down.

 

[Slade McCuiston]

I'll respond to this thread letting you know how well it worked after I get it in. They said it should be five to eight days. I've also noticed that I need to adjust the carburetor a tad bit (running a bit hot, going from full throttle to idle sometimes kills it), so I'll probably do that in the meantime.

 

[hamish]

A lot of dealers pair up the 545/550 with a NK bar and they run quite well with the 20LPX.

umm...no they dont

 

[Slade McCuiston]

I'll be interested hear how that 435 runs with the 20LPX and a 16" bar. I've looking hard at 340's and have wondered if I would need to stick with NK to keep in from bogging down.

The Husqvarna 435 performs exceptionally with the 20LPX chain and 16" bar. I have found that it is much faster in the cut, but you have to let the saw do the cutting. Unlike the NK chain/bar, you can't push on it all the time (or it will bog down). Fortunately, you don't need to. This chain makes bore cutting a piece of cake and doesn't chatter in the cut as much as one would expect.

My recommendation? The 435 should come stock this way.

 

[SawTroll]

A lot of dealers pair up the 545/550 with a NK bar and they run quite well with the 20LPX.

At least some times it just doesn't work. :msp_w00t:

 

[Karl Robbers]

I put a loop of Carlton chisel on a friend's Husqvarna 345 with standard NK bar and it really improved its performance. I intend to try a loop of semi chisel shortly.
The jump from NK to standard chain is not as big a leap as it may at first seem from a power use perspective. My theory is that most of the power is taken by the side plate, or "working corner" severing the wood fibres, the top plate takes relatively little power as it merely chips and carries the severed chips. If you were ripping, then there would be a substantial increase in power required between standard and NK chains.