Chain Grinders

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i have the 511AX and love it. will be upgrading to a CBN wheel soon.
 
Brad, I have never used a REAL grinder, but when I did round file, I loved that 12 V hand held grinder, but only with a diamond stone (EZLap). Easy to use, easy to learn, and twice as fast as doing it by hand. Plus, it goes wherever a vehicle goes (even an ATV) and you don't have to remove the chain.

Plus, you said they were cost conscious. I would not overlook this option, they do a great job.
 
Brad, I have never used a REAL grinder, but when I did round file, I loved that 12 V hand held grinder, but only with a diamond stone (EZLap). Easy to use, easy to learn, and twice as fast as doing it by hand. Plus, it goes wherever a vehicle goes (even an ATV) and you don't have to remove the chain.

Plus, you said they were cost conscious. I would not overlook this option, they do a great job.
I can agree to a point but they won't keep cutters true side to side.

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i bought brian's 511 off him. worked pretty good but i have so many years practice into hand filing i can hand file free hand as good as it can grind. sold it when i got my silvey but man i miss it for rakers. really should have kept it but it was hard to say no to the cull who offered me $460 for it. LOL one thing about the oregon grinders is i here guys say they don't grind the same side to side. mine was out 3 degrees from zero on the gauge and ground side to side spot on once i compensated for it.
 
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All four grinders in the pictures do everything.

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Well, I´m not dependant on the saw, but when I need it, I need it as quick and eficiently going as possible. And being a firewood hack time from time, it is somehow close to me.
For as they are described here, from the low end of prices, my vote is definitely a 620-120, hydraulic asist is a no-brainer. For each type of chain one, permanently set up. Oregon 510/511 permanently set up for doing rakers. Using their HF unit for rakers might be tempting, but with the flex in these parodies it will be just a wasting of chains and source of frustration.
Sure as hell they should learn how to touch up the chain in the field, but better to hop a new loop on the bar and go on in some cases. Firewood operation is not about sharpening, but about repairing marred chains good part of time. Yep, the best wheels availible and dressing tools too.

I understand some people here having eyebrows rised that they don´t file on their own. But guys, you cut mostly clean wood-and I mean even those oddballs the yarder operator used to dig trenches under the line. Cutting flashflooded hardwoods (like beech, oak and black locust) from a WWII battlezone/former army training area, full of dirt, sand and shrapnels gives you a lesson in 20 minutes. The same with some wood from former pasture lands-wires, chains and nails there.

In this type of operation, nothing beats a fresh loop of chain, or having possibility for 10 minutes break to run the chain through a grinder you don´t have to set up for anthing else than cutter lenght. No way to set back the cutters 3/32" with a file in such a time. Or-you can if you are a filling master, but the bill for the files will crush you.

my 0,02
 
They say that you shouldnt use a diamond wheel on regular chain ........... incompatable for some reason.
Is this true ?
Anyone using a diamond wheel, not CBN, on steel chain ?
 
The last saw shop that I worked at we used a Diamond Wheel exclusively, never a problem and the cutters stay cool.

Joe
 

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