Gotta bump this thread to say thanks to everyone that posted with excellent insight and info. Sharpening my own is the best idea I've had in a long time. The chains stay sharp longer, cut faster and I'm saving the money. Thanks again!!
Chain grinding
- Thread starter dwinch53
- Start date
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SilverKing
ArboristSite Guru
my only experience with grinding seems to take the temper out of the metal and make the chains soft.I like hand filing.But I have heard the newer grinding stones dont get the metal as hot?
That is because you are in a hurry and trying to do it in one shot. Instead, peck at it removing as little as you can and still get the job done. Little "taps" as was mentioned above will not heat the steel.
Also most chain grinding wheels are pink in color which is a more friable grinding material making the heat buildup slower than gray Silicon carbide wheels.
Not sure if you are talking about the $200 ABN or CBN coated metal wheels?
In my experience, overheating with conventional wheels tends to harden the cutters to a point where you can't touch them with a file. I don't really understand the metallurgy involved, but know that you have to grind past that area to be able to file them again.
It's a matter of technique and a little bit of patience to avoid this.
Philbert
galde
Addicted to ArboristSite
Another big contributing factor in tooth overheating and hardening is grinder wheels that are not kept cleaned by periodic dressing with a dressing brick or diamond dressing tool. A loaded-up or glazed wheel will barely cut but will mainly generate heat due to friction. This heat and the pounding of the tooth surface by the glazed wheel will harden the tooth and will leave a hard burr on the tooth edge that will dull a new file in a couple of strokes. A dirty chain (pitch, burnt oil, rust, whatever...) will quickly prevent the wheel from cutting. The ABN and CBN wheels are more tolerant of dirty chains. I won't touch a tooth with a file or grinding wheel until I have cleaned it. I now use my USC for the bad ones or a length of old starter rope to "floss" clean but oily teeth for touch-up filing on the bar.
Jim Timber
1/4 bubble off
Also don't dwell on the tooth. You can cool the teeth with fluid, but that would get messy.
***********
I had to learn that 'dressing' the wheel is not only to maintain the shape, but also to clean it and to expose fresh aggregate. Can't remember where I posted things anymore (already in this thread?), but I may dress a wheel every few chains or several times during one chain. Anytime it starts grinding 'different' - I give it a light dressing with the brick.
I also clean chains(probably already said that too, right?).
NO! These grinders use dry grinding wheels. If you use cutting/cooling fluids make sure that your grinder and wheels are rated for that. You could get a nasty shock and explosive surprise!
Philbert
********
I had to learn that 'dressing' the wheel is not only to maintain the shape, but also to clean it and to expose fresh aggregate. Can't remember where I posted things anymore (already in this thread?), but I may dress a wheel every few chains or several times during one chain. Anytime it starts grinding 'different' - I give it a light dressing with the brick.
I also clean chains(probably already said that too, right?).
NO! These grinders use dry grinding wheels. If you use cutting/cooling fluids make sure that your grinder and wheels are rated for that. You could get a nasty shock and explosive surprise!
Philbert
flyboy
ArboristSite Operative
I use Boelube on my Jolly Star. What an unbelievable difference. It is a dry waxy grinding lubricant invented by Boeing Aircraft. It keeps the cutters nice and cool. Any chain I grind outperforms new chain of any brand....even Stihl. I find most factory chains are 0.015" or more off from left to right cutters.
I have been using Boelube on my bench grinder for grinding my mower blades as well. The grinder cuts faster and cooler. The lube fills in the pores of the stones and prevents the pores from getting filled with grinding slag.
It looks like a glue stick:
I tried Kool Grind - was not that impressed. Maybe I expected too much. Maybe I should try it again.
Philbert
PJF1313
ArboristSite Guru
I use Boelube on my Jolly Star. What an unbelievable difference. It is a dry waxy grinding lubricant invented by Boeing Aircraft. It keeps the cutters nice and cool. Any chain I grind outperforms new chain of any brand....even Stihl. I find most factory chains are 0.015" or more off from left to right cutters.
I have been using Boelube on my bench grinder for grinding my mower blades as well. The grinder cuts faster and cooler. The lube fills in the pores of the stones and prevents the pores from getting filled with grinding slag.
It looks like a glue stick:
Damn - They (Orelube) are less than 10 miles from me!!
I'm gonna get on over there and see if I can get a tour! Maybe some cash pricing w/out state tax!
PJ
flyboy
ArboristSite Operative
Cash pricing? The stuff is like $2 retail.
PJF1313
ArboristSite Guru
I did a quick google, and the cheapest I saw was 8 +shipping...
Like I said, I didn't realize that they where so close to me.
flyboy
ArboristSite Operative
VikingDrive
ArboristSite Operative
Dress the side of the wheel lightly, too. Remember if you dress the wheel during one run on lh or rh cutters to verify that you didn't take too much off the wheel. It wears as you cut--measure a tooth and may need to let the depth stop into the next tooth to compensate. Keep a steady feed with the dressing brick, too to keep the wheel from getting eccentric.
PJF1313
ArboristSite Guru
Thanks!
Jim Timber
1/4 bubble off
I wouldn't flood lubricant, but a squirt wouldn't harm anything.
I should make a jig for chains to use on my surface grinder.
I should make a jig for chains to use on my surface grinder.
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