Chain question .325 vs .375 ?

[MCW]

thats interesting Matt, good info.

i have heard from a racer over here that .325 has given good results in our hardwoods in the 3 cut races (bore-down-up, down, up)

what gauge where the chains?

i believe the stihl chains in .325 are the preferred choice. it looks like they are built on a 0.063 chassis. the 0.050 gauge .325 stihl i have is a stepped drive link that is 0.063 between the straps

i just purchased a 5100s from here on behalf of a friend, its coming with 18inch 3/8 bar... will be interesting to see how it compares to my 346xpne with 16 inch .325 bar....

Serg

Hi Serg.
Both chains were .050" guage. There may very well be a different result in .325" chisel in green hardwood - not sure though.
I have not found that .325" is faster with semi chisel than 3/8" semi chisel. Basic tests I did were with brand new Carlton chain on dry Silky Oak (not exactly a "hardwood" in Australia but relatively hardish!). In other hardwoods such as Redgum 3/8" also seems to cut faster. The only reason I compared Carlton is because it is the only .325" chain have in stock so wanted to compare apples with apples.
Videos below...

.325" - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dh1Lwdi_E6M

3/8" - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6LYEVBE3UoU

The 3/8" was always about 2 seconds faster (roughly 19.5s to 21.5s)and although only two vids posted I ran similar "tests" a few times to satisfy my own curiosity. The .325" was running an 8 tooth sprocket and the 3/8" was running a 7 tooth sprocket. Only reason for this was the overall diameter is nearly the same.
Matt.

 

[SawTroll]

The 036 with .325 x 7 was a slow cut.
.325 x 8 was similar .375 x 7 in speed but smoother.
.375 x 8 was fast but gutless.
.325 x 9 was fastest and smoothest.

If you were closer it would be easy for you to try these combinations out.

You might ask you dealer if you can try out the setups on your saw at his shop. Some dealers have logs and a supply of used demo bars and chains. It might cost you a rim but asking should be free.

In the grand scheme of things the overall speed at the end of the day amounts to very little. Personal prefeferance, economy, control, and comfort is why I run .325 on the smaller saws. Most saws I own are setup to run the largest rim readily availible. That usally means shorter bars and sometimes smaller pitch chains.

The set-ups that Stihl recommend for the MS361 is 3/8x7, 3/8x8 and .325x9.

I use a 15" bar and 3/8x8 with RSC on mine for limbing and bucking - "overbucking" when needed - very efficient combo!


My experience regarding "jumpiness" when entering the wood is that chain model is more important than pitch - the RSC and the LP both are excellent in that regard, also in 3/8" - with a slight edge to the LP.

The LGX is the worst I have used so far, in that regard.

Anyway, it is not a big deal for productivity, mostly about feel!

 

[outdoortype]

good Info just saws

The 036 with .325 x 7 was a slow cut.
.325 x 8 was similar .375 x 7 in speed but smoother.
.375 x 8 was fast but gutless.
.325 x 9 was fastest and smoothest.

Thanks for the info. You're the second person that prefers the .325 X 9 on that size saw. I think I'm gonna try a .325 x 9 on one of my 359's now.
FWIW- I've heard several times that 3/8 is more durable than .325 but that hasn't been my experience at all. Stihl .325 chains hold their edge as well as their 3/8" chain. Has anyone tried Oregon's 20 or 21LPX .325 chains?

 

[FullCry]

Chain sizes

This isn't related to the topic but you guys know your stuff. I have an older bow saw and the chain is bigger than 3/8 so what size is it. The file is real big but has no size on it and I can't buy one here in town. I realize there may be several bigger sizes but can anyone give me the sizes that are bigger?

 

[mowoodchopper]

.404''

 

[husq2100]

Hi Serg.
Both chains were .050" guage. There may very well be a different result in .325" chisel in green hardwood - not sure though.
I have not found that .325" is faster with semi chisel than 3/8" semi chisel. Basic tests I did were with brand new Carlton chain on dry Silky Oak (not exactly a "hardwood" in Australia but relatively hardish!). In other hardwoods such as Redgum 3/8" also seems to cut faster. The only reason I compared Carlton is because it is the only .325" chain have in stock so wanted to compare apples with apples.
Videos below...

.325" - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dh1Lwdi_E6M

3/8" - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6LYEVBE3UoU

The 3/8" was always about 2 seconds faster (roughly 19.5s to 21.5s)and although only two vids posted I ran similar "tests" a few times to satisfy my own curiosity. The .325" was running an 8 tooth sprocket and the 3/8" was running a 7 tooth sprocket. Only reason for this was the overall diameter is nearly the same.
Matt.

Thanks Matt,

how have you found full chisel in older hardwood?

the dolmar is headed a little west for firewood cutting, moslty ironbark flitches from sleepers that would be 10 years old.

is it that full chisel just dulls to quick?
cheers, Serg

 

[Howsitgoineh]

I heard somewhere that .325 and .375 low profile are the same thing?
I'm a bit confused by this as I thought one would need to swap out the sprockets to run a different pitch. Isn't that correct?

That being said, I run a .325 on my 50-60cc saws and they cut real fast

Buckin Billy Ray Smith recommended a .325 for one of his large frame McCulloch saws.. he usually runs a 28" bar

 

[bwalker]

I heard somewhere that .325 and .375 low profile are the same thing?
I'm a bit confused by this as I thought one would need to swap out the sprockets to run a different pitch. Isn't that correct?

That being said, I run a .325 on my 50-60cc saws and they cut real fast

Buckin Billy Ray Smith recommended a .325 for one of his large frame McCulloch saws.. he usually runs a 28" bar

They are not the same.

 

[bwalker]

I run 3/8 everything from 50cc up. With 50cc saws .325 stihl RS does indeed cut slightly faster, but for me it was easier to have one roll of chain on hand. This applies to Stihl chain only. Oregon .325 was slower than 3/8 Stihl RS or Oregon 72 LG in my 50cc saws.
For a 60cc saw I see no good reason to use .325 and I have no doubt that 3/8 will be faster.

 

[Franny K]

Calling 3/8 pitch chainsaw chain 0.375 is not proper. 3/8 in this instance is an approximation. If you compute for 1640 drive links, 3280 pitch increments in 100 feet you will see that it is close to 0.366.

This is an old thread with someone responding to it.

For a 60cc saw to run .325 pitch chain it would be advisable to get one that can use a clutch drum that has a small 7 spline or the Stihl mini spline otherwise you will only be able to use a 9 tooth rim. There may be some .325 spur sprockets in rare instances.

 

[fields_mj]

I heard somewhere that .325 and .375 low profile are the same thing?
I'm a bit confused by this as I thought one would need to swap out the sprockets to run a different pitch. Isn't that correct?

That being said, I run a .325 on my 50-60cc saws and they cut real fast

Buckin Billy Ray Smith recommended a .325 for one of his large frame McCulloch saws.. he usually runs a 28" bar

Blast from the past. Here we are 15 years later

The two chain sizes are not the same thing at all. They require a different rim and a different guide bar, or at least a different nose on the end of the guide bar. You also can't get .325 bars longer than 20".

As far as rims and spur sprockets, it depends on exactly what saw you have. Most 50cc saws have small or mini splines on the sprocket, and you can get 7 pin or 8 pin .325 rims. Which one would work best for you depends on exactly which saw you have and how long of a bar you're running. If you're running a 20" bar on a MS251, I'd go with a 7 pin. If you're running a 16" bar on an MS261 I'd go with an 8 pin. In fact, with an MS261, I'd go with an 8 pin regardless.

60cc saws are not so black and white. Some came with small spline sprockets, and some came with standard spline sprockets. My 036 saws all had small spline sprockets, but I believe the MS361 was available in both configurations. Not sure about the 362. Regardless, if you're running .325 chain on a 60cc saw, I'd recommend using a sprocket with a standard spline rim (the 036 saws can be converted super easy) and run a 9 pin rim on it to max out your chain speed while in the cut. That allows you to put some of the extra torque/HP to use. You can also drop your depth gauges down a little further if you sharpen your own chains. I run both of my saws this way with 18" bars and I really like the way the cut for bucking and felling. The chain ends up being too grabby for limbing most small stuff, but I have an 026 for that On the 026 and 024, I run the same 18" bar with 8 and 7 pin rims respectfully, but I keep my depth gauges at the recommended .025".

 

[Franny K]

I have a 24" 91 drive link .325 replaceable nose guide bar made by GB. At the time I got it you could get the same thing in Oregon. Now one may well have to get a "powercut" bar and swap the nose. Or perhaps investigate GB.

 

[ElevatorGuy]

Blast from the past. Here we are 15 years later

If you're running a 16" bar on an MS261 I'd go with an 8 pin. In fact, with an MS261, I'd go with an 8 pin regardless.

old post for sure.

I’m running an 8 pin on my ported 261 with a 16, I wouldn’t run the 8 pin on it with a bigger bar or if it wasn’t ported.

 

[fields_mj]

old post for sure.

I’m running an 8 pin on my ported 261 with a 16, I wouldn’t run the 8 pin on it with a bigger bar or if it wasn’t ported.

My 026 has an 18" bar, and I run an 8 pin on it. That doesn't mean that it wouldn't cut faster with a 7 pin though. I primarily use it for limbing the top of the tree after its down, and for bucking stuff that's 8" or under. If it were my primary firewood saw, I'd probably be more picking about it.

 

[Tony Mayhew]

I have over a hundred chainsaws and I have only seen 3.75 chain on a 240 homelite and maybe a super 2. I thought it was some special size homelite used only! It usually has 37 stamped in the back side the clutch drum of their smaller saws and 38 stamped in the back of the drum for bigger saws referring that they use 3/8 and 3.75 on the smaller saws.

 

[telecasterfool]

I have a 24" 91 drive link .325 replaceable nose guide bar made by GB. At the time I got it you could get the same thing in Oregon. No one may well have to get a "powercut" bar and swap the nose. Or perhaps investigate GB.

I use .325 chain on 24" Oregon Duracut hard nose bars. Non-roller tip. uses any .050 chain you want. I can switch the rim and run 3/8 if desired.

 

[Franny K]

I use .325 chain on 24" Oregon Duracut hard nose bars. Non-roller tip. uses any .050 chain you want. I can switch the rim and run 3/8 if desired.

The large nose radius Oregon hard nose bars come only in 0.063" and no small mount but lengths of at least 36" are possible for that gauge.

 

[telecasterfool]

The large nose radius Oregon hard nose bars come only in 0.063" and no small mount but lengths of at least 36" are possible for that gauge.

Please see this: https://www.baileysonline.com/orego...vsMPkAWIsu4UdafBz64RigC2vfRsmWTRoCiLoQAvD_BwE