chain sharpening

[Sandhill Crane]

OK, here's what may seem some stupid questions. What is the Side-Plate Angle, the Top-Plate Cutting Angle, and the Top-Plate Filing Angle.

I'm running a Husky 357XP and looking at maintenance instructions for a new Husky H48 (73LG) chain. And what do those letters and numbers mean?

I have been using a file jig that clamps on the bar, 0 degrees tilt, 30 degrees angle, 1/3 of the file above the tooth with good success cross cutting, but it doesn't noodle.

The instructions chart reads: Side-Plate Angle (60), Top-Plate Cutting Angle (60), Top-Plate Filing Angle (25). So I am off 5 degrees on the T-PFA. Is that why I get dust instead of noodles when ripping (red oak)? Cross cutting is very aggressive, as are kick backs if not careful with the tip on adjacent logs.

On many of the chains in the chart the S-PA and the T-PCA are different, how can that be, and what effect does that have. Thanks.

 

[mtngun]

I have been using a file jig that clamps on the bar, 0 degrees tilt, 30 degrees angle, 1/3 of the file above the tooth with good success cross cutting, but it doesn't noodle.

The instructions chart reads: Side-Plate Angle (60), Top-Plate Cutting Angle (60), Top-Plate Filing Angle (25). So I am off 5 degrees on the T-PFA. Is that why I get dust instead of noodles when ripping (red oak)? Cross cutting is very aggressive, as are kick backs if not careful with the tip on adjacent logs.

On many of the chains in the chart the S-PA and the T-PCA are different, how can that be, and what effect does that have. Thanks.

The instructions apply to grinding machines, not filing jigs. Your filing angles should work satisfactorily.

A more aggressive top plate angle may cut a little faster, but also dull a little faster. Chances are you won't notice a difference.

Ripping is supposed to make fine dust. Ask any chainsaw miller.

Noodling is not the same as ripping. Noodling is cutting parallel to the grain, not across the grain.

Make sure you dress your rakers with your favorite method.

 

[1harlowr]

If you are getting dust when you noodle you are starting your noodling at the flat end of the block. To noodle start on the oustide (bark) of the round. Much quicker to half or quarter a round from the side compared to to the end.

 

[CTYank]

OK, here's what may seem some stupid questions. What is the Side-Plate Angle, the Top-Plate Cutting Angle, and the Top-Plate Filing Angle.

I'm running a Husky 357XP and looking at maintenance instructions for a new Husky H48 (73LG) chain. And what do those letters and numbers mean?

I have been using a file jig that clamps on the bar, 0 degrees tilt, 30 degrees angle, 1/3 of the file above the tooth with good success cross cutting, but it doesn't noodle.

The instructions chart reads: Side-Plate Angle (60), Top-Plate Cutting Angle (60), Top-Plate Filing Angle (25). So I am off 5 degrees on the T-PFA. Is that why I get dust instead of noodles when ripping (red oak)? Cross cutting is very aggressive, as are kick backs if not careful with the tip on adjacent logs.

On many of the chains in the chart the S-PA and the T-PCA are different, how can that be, and what effect does that have. Thanks.

Std. recommendation I've seen from folks like Pioneer, Granberg and Oregon is 1/5 or less of the file diameter above the cutting edge of the tooth. That's worked fine for me, with 30 deg edge angle and no tilt (horiz.), for about 35 yrs. With std. and low-prof. 3/8" chipper, std. 3/8" round-ground chisel, and 1/4" low-prof.

No chain prob, ever, with cross-cutting, ripping, or noodling. Some saws (e.g. Poulan 3400) can clog their clutch covers REAL quickly while noodling. :chainsawguy:

 

[Philbert]

There are many types of angles that can be described for chain cutters - too much information can make this confusing.

The 'top plate angle / top plate filing angle / top plate grinding angle' are the same angle; the name depending only upon whether you use a file or grinder. It is the angle that you hold a hand file (looking down at the bar), or the angle that you rotate the chain holding vice on a grinder. Typically, this is around 30 degrees (right and left).

The 'top plate cutting angle' is used to set the angle of the grinding head. It is typically around 60 degrees. This angle is automatically set by using the correct size (diameter) and position of the file when hand filing (or using a filing jig). The file is normally positioned so that approximately 20 percent of the diameter is above the top of the cutter.

Things like the 'side plate angle' are set automatically by the size/thickness/profile of the grinding wheel, or the diameter of the file, and the settings above. You don't normally have to set/worry about these.

More info on chains, including angles, can be found at:
http://www.oregonchain.com/maintenance/manual.htm

The letters and numbers are used by the different manufacturers to identify specific cutter shapes, types, sizes, etc. It's like Ford calling one model of car a 'Taurus' and Chevy calling a similar model of car a 'Malibu'. The letters and numbers are not consistent between manufacturers, as you note.


Philbert

 

[willsaw4beer]

I started with a stihl fixed 25 thou gauge, tried a fop and now i use a husky combigauge which makes it easy to sharpen chains better than when new. My experience with a granberg is they work ok but a combigauge is as good as it gets for getting the rakers dialed in..

 

[Sandhill Crane]

Thanks for each reply. I'll be looking for a combigauge to try, and spending hours on the Oregon site.